kensar

This is my 3D print rendition of the 1959 Bocar XP5. This car was developed by Bob Carnes of Colorado and was available as a kit car or a fully built vehicle which resulted in a lot of variation over the few cars built. Bob's shop burned down in the early sixties, ending production of all Bocar models. This one was powered by a Corvette engine and had a tube frame and fiberglass body. Paint used is Splash Paints, AK Interactive, and Tamiya paints.

The body is now clearcoated and assembly is moving forward. This will likely be the last update before completion. The rear wheel wells looks quite oversized, but that's what the 1:1 looks like.

How 'bout some pictures of your model?

Great looking model, Phil. The weathering smudges are a nice touch. Now for my Mini Cooper story. I worked as a volunteer corner worker at Road Atlanta for the SCCA runoffs one year. As a thank you to the volunteers, several drivers and teams gave us a lap around the track in the race cars after the races were over for the day. We lined up and were picked up one by one as the cars came through the line. When my turn came up, a red Mini Cooper pulled up, driven by an old lady (must have been in her 60s) wearing a huge floppy straw hat, big round sunglasses, and flip flops. My heart sank. I was hoping for one of the hot cars. Well, that old lady scared the hell out me and gave me a ride I won't forget. Didn't know a Mini could go that fast.

Ready for clearcoat.

Nice! Looks like a very clean build. Is it OOB? The first couple of closeup pics look heavily processed and distorted.

Q 1 - whats your current go-to printer ?? A1 - I am using an Anycubic Photon Mono M5s Pro printer at either 20 micron or 30 micron layer ht, depending on the level of detail needed. The higher layer ht reduces print time on non-critical parts. I am using Anycubic ABS-like Resin PRO2 resin. Q2 - are the belts incorporated into the seats? A2 - No, the webbing is off-white paper, which makes it look very flat, and the hardware is 3D printed belt hardware that Bill Cunningham developed. He has allowed free use of the design (Thanks again, Bill). Thanks for looking into this project.

Progress is moving along quickly. Here are the wheels and seats. getting ready to start painting the body, which will be blue with gold stripes planned.

Welcome to the world of model contests!

Thanks, Dave. I design all my projects in Fusion 360.

The first print of the body

My next project is the Bocar XP5. This was a racer made by Bob Carnes from Colorado in about 1959. He offered complete cars and kits for homebuilders. The XP5 was capable of almost 160 mph, which was quite fast for 1959. It was raced in Florida and came in second to a Jag D type. Bob made about 20 cars before his shop burned down, ending production of Bocars. It was powered by either a Corvette engine or a Pontiac engine. I am about to start printing, so I should be posting some building shots soon. This will be a quicky curbside model. Not all the parts are shown in the renderings above.

Nice work on the megaphones. 👍 All your scratchbuilding is defintely an upgrade.

Seems I forgot to include some interior pics. I wanted the interior to have a early 1970s look.

Smash molding is a simple way to mold a sheet of material into a 3D shape. Referring to the picture below, the gray mold was made in the design software and was printed as a part on the 3D printer. it fits up into the body where the interior is, and conforms to its interior shape. I have traced the window shapes with a marker for reference. I use a heat gun (chrome thingy in the picture) to heat a sheet of PETG to form the windows. Next I clamp a piece of PETG in some clamps to hold it and heat it over the heat gun. Watch those fingers - it gets hot! When the PETG sheet is soft and pliable, I 'smash' it over the mold where the window I want to make is. If the PETG gets too hot, it turns white and it's ruined. I make the windshield, side windows, and back window separately. Then cut them out and glue them into the body. In the picture above, the PETG is covered by a protective film and doesn't look clear, but after the film is peeled off, the PETG is VERY clear. The film must be removed before heating. Here I was just demonstrating the process. The PETG sheets are available on Amazon and are 0.015" thick. Hope this process is clear. Thanks for looking in on this project.