Technics

Plucked away, cut, modified and permanently fused the stance in. The wheels sit on the actual protruding lugs, so those are not fixed. Slowly working the body removing a few holes and adding a few based on a references. Sanded down a styrene scrap to somewhat resemble a race / cup mirror style shape. Made some mistakes already but enjoying the slow roll forward Unsure still if the project will be “painted” or raw metal. But I tried a few initial colours. I liked the deep red edging into purple - nocturnal red. I unscientifically mixed a few of the colours into pot and sprayed at a low pressure in an uneven pattern. Realising it’s more the right browny red then my preferred red in the photos. Simple test weathered the strip afterwards removing the paint I just layed. I will likely cut away the lower rear bumper area, as it extends lower then the bodyside.

Thanks alot everyone. Really motivating to read. There´s more fox goodness in the pipeline. Dirty mockup below

Great thread to an awesome chassis and generation of mustangs. Here’s my recent build. 1990 Mustang LX 5.0 Revell. Under the Glass Thread

@Musclecarbuilder @Andrew McD No motor work at all, after decades of building, taking a breaks and returning I learnt it’s not really my thing - mechanical accuracy. There’s photos of the undercarriage in the wip thread that no longer marches the exterior paint 😀 I built the motor for my Lancia Stratos and Blasphemi WIP projects.. Lancia Stratos Blasphemi Thread Thank you everyone for your kind words!

Project has been concluded. Thank you everyone!

Model - 1990 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 - Revell Box stock, a clean as possible showroom condition build ( I stripped the paint 3 times on the hood and twice on the body to get here. HUGE effort to get to this stage, I’m really proud and Can’t believe I pulled through 😀) Notes - Paint is a 2025 Mustang GTD Polymatic Grey by Firescale Polished with a dspiae rotary tool with Menzerna #2500, #3800 polishing compounds Autoglym “super resin finish” polish Colour matched flocking and interior paint Diluted the inner amber turn signal lenses to have them differ to the outer as per references. Sanded and Tamiya cement painted tires Deliberately left the door handle in paint colour Also leaving out using the rear plate felt best visually for me. Can’t bring myself to paint the 5.0 badge with an alcohol pen. Attempted dry brushing 4 times, no chance. One day maybe. Pros First polishing success First clean panel accent line and lamp success Cons Few assembly errors Few paint errors Build Thread - Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/scale_technics

Spent a few nights getting the lamps finished and into the model. Took a few tries as I missed that the rear lamps should be inserted from the inside as most kits.. but the headlamps and all windows go in from the outside on this one. Thankfully tweezers, patience and CA glue on sewing needles make everything possible. The visual detail of the kit is very high especially for a revell in my opinion. I had the idea of remaking a dealership twist to the final model but I can’t bring myself to do more for this one. It’s by far the cleanest built kit. I’m at the end of the line here. 😀 Experiment

@beeRS I don’t believe they re released the 356 coupe.. Hence their current value. Here’s a nice a4 included in the box which shows an array of kits they had in the period. Some have been re released.

Porsche 356 B/C Carrera 2 Fujimi Enthusiast kit Loose plan that comes to mind is picking up where I left off using techniques from on my Land Rover III build. Letting the mind wander. Looking into Rod Emory’s outlaw projects as my main inspiration. Likely not using the bumpers, use of leather hood straps. A absolute pleasure to build. What a kit. Slow assembly sessions have begun. It might look like not much but there´s dozens of parts assembled here to make up the frame already.

Stance has been worked on and now sits fused to the chassis, body, etc. I really like how the tire sidewall look! Overall feeling of this Mustang makes me very content. Removed chrome from the wheels, painted them bright silver, and gave it a simple wash. Tires were sanded down and painted with cement.

Project has been concluded. Thanks for following along for the ride!

@BK9300 Thank you! I absolutely love the rotary tool polisher. I went ahead and bought another to have as a spare.. 20-25$ shipped!? Absolutely can not go wrong. I polished before any black trim was applied. Still, I was very conscious and careful not to blow through any raised edges or corners. I worked one panel at a time and cloth dried it, closely checking ( hoping ) I’m still in clear. It will be a challenge to polish complex surfacing. I will be doing a Ford GT GT3 soon enough. @espo@Musclecarbuilder Thanks guys! This is by far my cleanest finish yet. Now to follow through with the application of lamps, windows and decals….

Model - 1973 Chevelle Nascar - MPC Experiment with surface rust, a simple model build that’s interesting to look at. Neither a non functioning junkyard find nor a showroom car. Something inbetween. Modifications - An out of the box build with minor exceptions - Created a drivers racing net using bandage tape. Used a metal tube for the exposed fuel filler. Pros My first rust attempt, everything has been “added” onto the body I did not chip away material. Brush painted the bumpers and window trim. Cons Could’ve been cool with a faded livery in places but that’s a task for another model as this was plenty of learning with this one. Build Thread -

Flocked the interior carpet areas, I managed to match the hue of the exterior paint I used for the interior by mixing four colours of Vallejo. I irregularly sponged it on. Super excited on the shine of this exterior, it’s my first near perfect finish, a mirror. Working on the tires and stance next. Also carefully brushed the interior of the body with two coats of black.

@rickcaps55 @av405 @Ranger166 thank you! I had a two tone 5spd GT during college 20 years ago. Such fun cars! I went ahead and redid the windows using a second kits set clear parts. The first set can likely be cleaned off carefully with a toothbrush and fingernail as it’s water based vallejo just wanted to give it a shot with near perfect no imperfection set, apart from the remaining badly placed tree stubs. I went the no return route here and sprayed lacquer for rapid and durable drying. Which I think is key for me. I did one window at a time. Mask, spray, flash dry, spray again, flash dry and remove mask. It worked really well I’m pleased. Almost perfect. The cleanness of windows is so critical to a build after the body one should almost start with the windows. As crazy as it sounds.

@meechum68 @Volzfan59 Wow thanks guys. It’s quite inspiring right now with experimenting. I’ve been admiring weathering across all genres for 30 years but never dared to try. I find it was tougher with information and less forgiving materials in earlier decades.. Certainly a long time coming. 😊

@espo That’s an awesome story thanks for sharing. That’s some scene ! Sounds like a movie scene really. What a cool period. @Perspect Scale Modelworks true, maybe that’s an avenue to take. I didn’t think of that. Still including some sort of marking on the tailgate and some window tint

Been adding and subtracting. Body, tires and wheels have had several passes of paint, wash and a touch of pigment. I attempted some damage on the rear, passenger door, and lower body. I’ve also been building up some shadow / dirt behind the wheels, wheels themselves, fuel area and surfaces lower to the ground. The wheels are painted in neuances of four different colours so no corner is the same really. Hard to read that via photos. Bumpers and window trim was painted with a “wet” generous brush to keep it as chrome as possible to contrast the body. I removed the molded in driver’s safety net and made one from medical tape. I think it works, especially once shaded and layed out “naturally” onto the model. It could use being made up of thinner profiles of fabric but think it still serves the model. I will keep it for now. I used a hollow metal rod to mimick the opened fuel filler. A few small decals, a fresh set of eyes in a while and I’ll call it done. The rear wheels could use moving forward a millimeter or two on this old kit as well to fit the wheel well perfectly. Harsh working lighting vs natural daylight photos of a earlier stage.

@Dragline @iamsuperdan @Zen Thanks guys! Mainly just a mock up for myself to see it not floating in space. Nevermind the part gaps or stance, No real physical progress there. Mainly a visual to help me mentally process what I will do next. I will cut and polish the “easy” reflection capturing surfaces. The rest will be varying track use soot. Fun side by side with some vintage metal. Not sure they’re the right to scale to be seen together. Just a neat progress picture I thought. Plan is to have the wheels in satin bronze.

I decided against the police theme, I spent 3 hours making off trim areas on the body and clear parts. I divided it into three sessions. It’s the only way I have found to result in sharp lines and without leftover residue. Mask, paint, remove immediately. The result so far is the cleanest I’ve ever managed to get. Thanks to luck with clear coat, ample dry time, following through with polishing. The body trim is near perfect. I fumbled one line by a few millemeters but it won’t matter in the final look on the table. The clear parts went less good, firstly the lenses came with some faint blemishes. Due to the kit design the areas where the parts connected to the tree and plastic was injected is horribly placed. What makes it worse there’s up to four corners to be trimmed on some pieces and all the glass is to be installed from the outside so it’s all visible. Seeing as it’s possibly my nicest build I decided to open second kit to redo the glass in attempt to make it as nice as the paint. I am manually cutting 2mm white tape down to 1 to get it to lay down nice curved masked lines. I ordered new tape ranging from 0.5-1mm to give it another attempt. Cutting masks out of large single tape pieces is nearly impossible for me to match the exact curves they should be I find masking manually is easier. I will use an alcohol or lacquer based paint for the clear parts as building up 2-3 layers to remove transparency with a water based paint caused more issues then solved. The trim on the body didn’t have any issues.

More progress! Stencil and the lightest shot of clear brought out the side lettering. Decided the stencil sample I made earlier this year was more then good enough in the name of progressing the build forward. In my mind rather it become compelte then stagnate trying to perfect and remain unbuilt forever, Nothing is perfect here. I made a pass in a desaturated earth tone as well as a black to shade the back half of the body behind the rear wheels and the rear end. The result is stuble, hard to capture on photos I’m content for now. Will possibly work on it more when everything’s buttoned up. Mocked up a basic distributor, and radiator plumbing. Will pepper on detail until I can’t stand doing so anymore.

@Daverde Thank you!

Had a few inspirational days and made heaps of progress, I’m really pleased I committed and pushing through to this stage where it sits today. The turning point was finally making the roof into some sort of additional point of interest which I feel helps conclude the look. Everything is still a wip and on stand by, need some distance from it again to finish off with fresh eyes ( and emotions 😃 ) It’s getting close.. some details and areas I want to weather before I call it done. Roof painted with patina, trims painted, light weathering has started and will continue. Some basic pluming and wiring will occur. I should go all out on detailing the motor but I don’t think I have it in me, it’s not my favourite part of modelling as much as I like seeing detailed builds I enjoy making the overarching impression of the model more. ( attention span of the builder ) The big learnings were already had during the main build process - deleting alot of body trim, making a clamshell of the front and opening it all up, making a basic firewall which was incredibly fiddly work in relation to the chassis body and motor, working the tires. Project I remains to have some fitment issues at full closed position of the front clamshell which is incredibly irritating. I usually solve such problems with the sledgehammer approach of sealing things off permanently with CA and hot glue! Given the subject matter it’ll never sit displayed in closed position and I rather like setting up scenes with the clamshell. Maybe I’ll tack it down with glue for final photos only. I can’t be messing around with it any more, a new project make use if the energy instead!