YellowHound

Have just found this thread. I do hope that kit isn't too far into the future. It looks fantastic and the 787B is one car I'd love to build, especially in that scale.

It looks like this is now imminent. Hiroboy might have their first order over the next couple of weeks.

Matt do you have a link to that thread? I've just had a quick look and can see quite a few H&S related threads. The inconsistency I'm experiencing is very puzzling. In order to get to the bottom of it I think I need to spend some time doing some tests looking at spray performance vs pressure and thinner/paint ratio - but the permutations quickly spiral.... If it's something simple like an airbrush issue then I would be delighted, but why black paint? It's possible that it's my technique - I wonder if it's my coordination of air and paint control? Perhaps I get away with issues with other colours but the specific (what though?) of black paint cause an issue.

I've been buying quite a few bits from there over the last couple of weeks - mostly tools, but also a model kit and some detail sets. I had one order cancelled (quoted delivery 'issues') and refunded. Everything else has come through just fine. I'm in the UK and have either saved a decent amount or been able to buy something that is just not available here.

Airbrush is a new Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2024 CR+. 0.45mm Needle. Compressor is a new Bartsharp AC03 - this has an accumulator tank and moisture trap. I'm struggling to believe an airbrush or compressor fault. I'm only having an issue with the black paint. My guess is there's a sweet spot in terms of pressure and paint consistency, that I haven't found as yet. I'm maintaining the temperature at 18-19 degrees C (I have a temp probe at the mouth of my spray booth. Spray pressure quoted by Zero is a 15-40 psi range. For the black I've been setting it to approx. 27.5psi - i.e. bang in the middle. If I add thinners I always do it away from the airbrush by mixing up a quantity of thinners+paint in a fresh bottle.

Yes - I try to do one big Euro road trip per year.

I'm fairly new here and am returning to a hobby I haven't touched for many, many years. I am having a challenge airbrushing black paint. I started using Zero paints and lots of the parts on the car builds I have started need satin black. In Zero paints terms semi-gloss black. Every time I put this in the airbrush it doesn't spray consistently - the airbrushes splutters. I have tried thinning it further with Zero basecoat thinners (a 1:1 mix) but I get the same behaviour - maybe slightly better. I've tried varying the pressure but don't really see any improvement. Here's what a 'typical' pass looks like. I'm keeping my airbrush scrupulously clean, and checking it closely before I paint. I don't see this issue with (so far) any other Zero paint colour. I have also tried some other paint - I bought a couple of bottles of Vallejo Model Air Nato Black paint to try. This exhibited a similar behaviour - but only to a slight degree. It did spray better than the Zero Semi-Gloss Black. I'd welcome any thoughts/suggestions on what I am doing wrong/what I can change for a better result. I'm achieving good results with other colours, so is black a particular challenge? Is there an equivalent of acrylic flow improver for solvent paints? Should I switch to an acrylic semi-gloss black? But is there one that is available in a reasonable quantity, rather than the tiny pots of most paints?

Thanks Gerry @Exotics_Builder - yes Laser (should have specified!). I've had a stroke of luck with the Blue Stuff plaid seat decal that has gone out of production. I emailed Bob at Blue Stuff and luckily he has two sets of the sheet I want in his personal stash and is going to sell me one. Result!

I have added the Tamiya 1/24 Mercedes 300SL to my kit stash. Blue Stuff used to produce decal sheets of the plaid seat fabric for this kit but sadly these are now discontinued. I'm looking for recommendations of good printable decal sheet so that I can have a go at printing my own. Thanks!

Thanks Les - those Porsche Fuchs that you printed for me are brilliant. I haven't come across and 3d files in my searches. I'll take another look...

Looking for a source for a 1/16 distributor and ignition coil for a Toyota 2000GT kit I'm building. The kit distributor is awful and the coil isn't modelled. Simple shapes I know but I'd ideally like some well-moulded/printed parts. I can find sources in the US but nothing so far in UK (ideal) or Europe.

Thanks all for your thoughts. I've given up on the Zero Primer. I didn't get a satisfactory/helpful response from Zero themselves. Got some Mr Surfacer 1500 and thinner incoming. This I believe is a lacquer primer, so a different product entirely. Got to try to strip most of what Ive done so far with the Zero primer. I have been masking parts painted with the Zero primer and top coat and finding that the masking tape just pulls it all off.

I've dropped a line to Zero to see if they can advise but I just can't use anymore of this primer. I've just been masking some parts to overspray a different colour and the paint is peeling off with the Tamiya masking tape. Non-detail areas can be sanded to give them a key but I can't sand detail areas. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong but am now looking for an alternative airbrush ready primer.....

I'm coming back to modelling after a long gap. I have a number of car kits I am starting work on. I've bought a selection of Zero and Proscale colours that suit what I want to do, and decided to use Zero primer. But I'm finding little to no adhesion to the plastic. If I try to sand it, it peels off. Non-detail areas sanded prior to primer application. Sprayed using a Harder & Steenbeck airbrush, 0.45mm needle at 20psi. Room temp about 19deg C. Models surfaces washed in mildly soapy water and dried thoroughly before paint. Primer built up in thin layers and left to dry for 5min between coats. Is it an application/use issue? I'm struggling to believe that it's a bad primer. Should I have left it longer between coats?

Actually I think I'm being a bit silly here. It is what looks like a simple 90 degree bend, maybe slightly less. If I can estimate the OD I could get some thin wall cooper tube and bend it to something close.

Here's a pic - the large duct to the right above the race number. It's a simple part as it just appears to be a right angle bend.

I have this kit and am collecting additional detail parts. I have the Hobby Design Detail-Up Set which contains a lot of PE parts. There's a couple of other things that I have my eye on which still seem available. I am trying to find a couple of additional parts, but am unsure whether these have actually been included on any other 1/24 kits of this car, or as aftermarket resin parts. The parts are the two large diameter ducts, one on each side of the car, just in front of the turbo installations. Has anyone modelled these parts? TIA!

Fabulous! Thank you. I have bought the files I saw on Cults3D - they look pretty good but the proof will be in the printing. How do we take this forward?

My first post - hopefully it's a 'worthwhile' question, and not one that's been asked a gazillion times. I'm getting back into modelling now we are drifting into winter in the UK. I have an old 911 that I have owned for circa 23 years that I'm going to replicate (as close as I can) in 1/24th scale. My base is going to be Revell's 1/24th 911 Carrera 3.2. One of my beefs with all the 911 kits I see is the wheels. Few kit/model manufacturers get the wheels right. Most seem to use the same wheel for front and back I have found a 3D model which looks pretty good on Cults3D. The files are all .stl format. I have no experience with 3D printing (though it's something I think I will get into in the future). Can anyone recommend a cost effective way of getting the files printed, preferably here in the UK? Perhaps recommend someone that could do this for me? TIA! ?