GMasterG

Finding the missing exhaust part (in a place I would swear in front of a jury on penalty of death that I’d looked a dozen times previously) inspired me to add spark plug cables, a 3D-printed solenoid and wire to the distributor and similarly 3D-printed oil filter with hoses to the oil sump. I used 90-degree spark plug boots under the oil filter base plate as hose connectors. and the interior is done:

I'd be keen to see the blown drag-car version of this car. Thank for the comment.

Thanks Noel. Yes, Fiats have the reputation of being prone to rust here in Australia as well.

Thanks Sonny. The colour call-out gives yellow as an option and it is the color of my friend's modern version of the 500

Thanks John

A friend just bought a 2018 Abarth 500. He'd longed for a 695 ss since he was young so I decided to make one in honor: All the parts sprayed: Some early work on the chassis and engine: The engine installed: A little progress on the interior: .....and the dash: The body gets a base-coat:

Thank you. I’d have to agree with your sentiment.

Thank you, Stephen. I'd say that overall this is my best work to date. I've done better paint work. For some reason the paint fought me all the way on this one but it's an opportunity to hone skills.

Thank you for your kind words Todd. I seem to be - and all because a hobby store heavily discounted some Salvinos kits and I thought: "What the hell. I know nothing of the sport and I know nothing of the cars or the drivers but I'll build one." I've caught the bug. And I find that period from the mid 60s to the mid 70s to be the most interesting. As was the case with touring car racing in Australia, the cars you saw on the track on Sunday were the cars you could buy in the showroom on Monday - their rawness and authenticity appeals to me as do the men who drove them.

Thanks Bruce. Yes I have no problems with the decals at all. A generous amount of water to begin with so that I can push them around, and then once I have them where I want them and they have dried a little I give them a coat of regular Mark Fit.

Be sure to pass on my compliments.

It’s finished and it did fit

Now ya tell me!! I see the error of my ways. Thanks. Nice build too. You’ve set the bar for the chrome finish. Very impressive.

Approaching the end of this project and I’m feeling very satisfied with the quality of the individual sub-assemblies as well as the overall build. These side farings took a little time and patience so as not to dull or scrape the chrome: I don’t use the axles that come with the kit. Instead I use a couple of short lengths of 2mm brass rod. You can gently force it into the small holes in the hubs of the rear wheels to achieve a nice tight aligned fit and then you just slide the other end into the axle until you have the wheels aligned in the way that you want. Here is a picture showing the wheels sitting prose revealing the two pieces of brass tube that serve as the axles: And here are a couple of pictures of the stance that I’ve achieved on this build: I’m always holding my breath once the engine gets locked in hoping that there will be enough clearance for the hood to sit flat once the air filter is on top of the intake manifold: But that’s a task for another day.

Using UV light-activated clear resin to fix the clear glassware has become my preferred method. By sitting the glass in place you can then run a bead of resin along the top edge of the glass and the underside of the body and the capillary action of the resin will let it flow into whatever groove or seat the glass panel is sitting in. It avoids unnecessary handling and the risk of panels sliding over surfaces that have already been prepped with some form of adhesive. You can see below where the resin has seeped into the grooves of the plastic body and the window and even managed to run up the back of one of the blow-out bars just for good measure and all without getting a drop or a smear on the clear panel itself.

I’m not sure if I find this process as meditative; I’m certainly glad when it’s over and there are minimal casualties. Whilst it’s not perfect I try and make each successive model in some way the beneficiary of its predecessors and I’m a lot happier with my choice and application of chrome paint this time around.

A little detail added to the hood. Some 3D-printed hood pins. I find this sort of fine detail work so incredibly rewarding. The focus is like a form of meditation:

Thank you

Some extensive wet running with 8k sanding cloth, followed by a few more coats of clear (different brand) after which I applied some light liquid compound and then finally some liquid polish both from Meguiar’s and it’s come up quite well:

Use a hydrochloric acid bath in the same way you would a bath of bleach for chrome parts used in other kits; it will take 3-7 days

It's not impossible to strip. Put it in a bath of hydrochloric acid and leave it there for anything from 3 days to a week and you will find it completely removed. This is not hearsay - I do it on every re-badged Monogram/Revell kit that Salvinos has re-boxed and in which are included these chrome parts.

I've struggled with the finish on the body of this Roadrunner. The Zero Paints Petty Blue has not behaved in the same way to which I'm accustomed. I'm not blaming the paint - somewhere along the way I've done something that it didn't like. But I've embraced it as an opportunity to spend a little more time focusing on finishing techniques and paying a little more attention to surface preparation, sanding, polishing and removing orange peel. The picture below demonstrates why I've not paid much attention to such things in the past. On the left is a Charger body that will be Bobby Isaac's 71 K&K model. I sprayed this using SMS Rocket Red Mk 2 with a splash of Salamanca Red followed by a top-coat of Zero Paints 2k Diamond Clear. I can usually achieve a glass-like finish without having to sand/polish just by progressively adding more and more Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner to the paint until finally I just spray a finishing coat of 100% thinner which serves the dual purpose of acting as a saturation coat for base color as well as cleaning the air-brush. Such was the case on Richard Petty's 64 Belvedere which was the last time I used the Petty Blue. This time around I'm faced with a very fine orange peel on the surface of the clear coat to which I will have to apply some light sanding before floating a very diluted coat of 2k clear over the entire body.

Thank you

Many of these SalvinosJR kts contain the same parts so there is not much to be added by posting the same progress pictures over and over again save for the purposes of gauging one's own improvement. To that end, below is the engine fitted into the engine bay. This is without a doubt my best effort to date. It is symmetrical, the exhaust headers are placed/spaced perfectly to receive the exhaust dumps and a test-fit of the fan and radiator confirmed sufficient tolerance to make everything fit with no room to spare. I used silver chrome from DSPIAE and I'm delighted with the finish it's given me; having the engine drop in so effortlessly without spoiling the finish was quite a relief. The other aspect of the finish that I find very visually satisfying is the use of automotive 1k clear which has given a sense of depth and definition to the surfaces that I haven't previously obtained on other similar builds. I've found some opportunities to incorporate some more 3d-printed parts such as the red spark plug caps which add a nice bit of detail. The distributor is also 3d-printed. I forgot to trim the base to lower the overall height which I was reminded of when I tried to fit the breather cross-pipe which now doesn't sit so I've had to bend a new one out of 2mm brass pipe. I seem to have had success with it so I will paint it up and fit it during the week. I've not secured any of this yet because experience has taught me that some not-so-minor structural adjustments to the lower engine mount might be required once the air filter is fitted to allow clearance for the hood to sit flush. There is nothing that frustrates me more than a proudly-sitting hood. Not only is it visually distracting but also speaks volumes about one's own inability to plan ahead and foresee potential pit-falls.