Dtimmerman89

Do it. Finish her up and get to posting so we can see what you've been up to

Thanks for all of the compliments, gents. I have shaping tools that I have made from a soda can. The one I will use is crescent shaped. I use tamiya extra thin quick set type to soften the rod as I use the tool to shape the beads to give it a realistic effect. The car will have a bare metal finish. Slammed, stretched, channeled, chopped and sometimes, sectioned is the way to go. Extreme is certainly my style. And as far as extreme goes, this car will look amazing next to my frame laying 66 F100, which is about to get painted this weekend. I have a build thread here... https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/204408-moebius-model-king-1966-f100-styleside-short-bed-hard-parked-edition/#comment-3091818

Thanks, sir. Once I finish my 66 F100, I will be right back in the saddle with this one. I am excited to recreate the open roof with the wood cross bracing in place. However, I have thought of recreating the cross bracing to look like steel with lots of lightening holes and matching bomber seats for that Kool Kustom rod aesthetic.

I have been fully motivated to finish mine. I wasn't able to participate during the time frame because I have moved twice last year. But I have managed to get quite a bit done. I used stretched sprue on the top chop so i can go back and recreate the weld detail. This is a big thing in the armor building scene where I come from.

I finalized some body work and finally got the body unified. My MCW paints have arrived and I can finally get the body and chassis painted. I bought both Buttescotch Yellow and Daytona Yellow to see which I like more. Wimbledon White will be the base for the two tone. I did some test shots of revell chrome on bare SLA resin to see what it looks like...No black backer is needed for that crazy stuff.

Yeah,I feel ya there. I live South Dakota, or as we say here,"Southern Canada". The temps have definitely dropped here as well. However, my spray booth is in my little studio and I can keep everything warm since it's in the house.

She's looking pretty good so far.

A shaved firewall would look pretty sick. It's crazy how much of it you had to remove to fit the frame with the engine in It's place. It's moved so far back, you could run it as a race truck.

Ford trucks and lots of custom work calling my name. I grew up in an all Chevy family. Anything else was almost sacreliguous. Then as a teen, I found late 20's and 30's Fords, which lead to 40's and 50's Fords and completely obsessed with 60's Fords. Especially all of the trucks of those generations. They made absolutely beautiful vehicles.

Those look like they'd work pretty well. I typically use nickel wire, loop it around a pin, pinch it shut with my needle nose and a dab of solder to finish. For larger rod ends, I'll flatten the end of some aluminum wire or rod, drill out the center and file the edges round. I try not to spend money if I can help it, so I have learned to be quite crafty with the basics.

I am there with you. I honestly want some actual strength out of this thing. I shouldn't have to hold my breath every time I pick it up or set it down.

I am actually fairly local to Ron Coon. I'll have to give him a buzz. He's my source for vintage dirt track car parts and has a great selection of resin items. And yes, RB is still hard at work. I believe he had to shut down the site to catch up on production, he's one man jam band, like most others. As far as rod ends go, I can easily flatten some aluminum wire and drill it. I have some nickel wire, too, that would work well. Why spend money, when I already have the perfect material to make them myself? I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long.

I I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long.

She looks absolutely lovely.

How i achieved the bubbled rust effect is to leave some areas of the salt behind, typically the finest gradient is left behind. You can see it mostly on the outside of the wheel cutout. Also, make sure you use an 800 grit to knock down some of the ridges and pooling around where the salt was removed. Use your discretion on what you sand down to give it some texture, but to keep it from looking like an obliterated mine field. I may have to do a tutorial to show and explain my process. I think it would give lots of insight to weathering rust and how it works irl.

Yessir. I started with a brown primer as the base and added multiple gradients of salt to vary the size of the rust chips, multiple layers of sponge chipping to blend the colors from darkest to lightest and blended the same colors with an air brush to stain the paint.

Thank you, sir. I appreciate the compliment. I painted the rust using multiple techniques to give it that look. Not only does it look like it, it feels like it. She's a real barn burner at every show I bring it to.

It's an Iceman chassis. I have abuild thread if you want to follow along.

I have decided to use MCW enamels and it will be a factory yellow and white two tone. I have been building armor for over twenty years, and my specialty is weathering, so I may give this ride a slightly patina look since it's all the rage these days. I won't argue, either. I love the rusty resto mod look.

I have decided to use MCW enamels and it will be a factory yellow and white two tone. I have been building armor for over twenty years, and my specialty is weathering, so I may give this ride a slightly patina look since it's all the rage these days. I won't argue, either. I love the rusty resto mod look.

Yes, it is in fact an Iceman chassis. Even though it comes with two sets of link rods and control arms, extreme caution needs to be taken. Despite how delicate I am when building, I have managed to break all of them at least once. 🤦 When I do this same process on my 65 long bed and 69 short bed, I will make the rods out of aluminum to hopefully diminish the chaos is went through this weekend.

Moebius/ Model King 1966 F100 Styleside short bed resto mod "Hard Parked" Edition The only parts used oob are the interior tub, seat, dash & wheel, and of course, the body. This truck is almost entirely 3d printed. I used a custom chassis with all tubular suspension components, bags that are modified to fit, as well as the pumps & tank. Some very nice 21" factory style steelies. Billet Coyote with ITB's and a pair of small block chevy headers that fit coincidentally, too well. Batteries, switches, radiator & cap, etc etc. Lots and lots of dry fitting and adjusting with a slow setting CA glue. Once the suspension was finalized, I had to set the track width to get the wheel fit flush. I filled the door handles, emblems and gas cap for a nice shaved esthetic. Now I can finally finish up the body work on the inside of the bed and scratch a tonneau cover.

My current project, Moebius/ Model King 1966 F100 Styleside short bed. Lots and lots of dry fitting and adjusting with a slow setting CA glue. Once the suspension was finalized, I had to set the track width to get the wheel fit flush. I can finally finish up the body work on the inside of the bed, and scratch a tonneau cover. MCW enamel finishes and lots of revell chrome to come.

This is looking gorgeous. I am excited to see it completed, yet sad to see it go at the same time. Phenomenal build, good sir.

I really like where this build is going.