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Everything posted by LOBBS
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'69 Pro-Touring Vette-Motor is taking shape (7-1-07)
LOBBS replied to LOBBS's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I have a sickness for Vettes with red interiors. I can only remember one Vette that I built as a kid that had any other color. Anyways, here's a teaser pic of the seats, the rest of the pieces are drying so I can mask off and detail paint and dull coat tomorrow. Color is Tamiya Italian Red over Duplicolor gray filler primer on Revell '02 Camaro seats. More pics to come and thanks for looking -
'69 Pro-Touring Vette-Motor is taking shape (7-1-07)
LOBBS replied to LOBBS's topic in WIP: Model Cars
The regular shade, TS-38 I believe. -
'69 Pro-Touring Vette-Motor is taking shape (7-1-07)
LOBBS replied to LOBBS's topic in WIP: Model Cars
On the project table for sure, may be finished by June but that will depend on the length of my honey-do list between now and then. -
No matter what the subject is, your work always amazes me Izzy.
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A couple of years in the making, I decided to jump over to this project after I found the body in the dehydrator when I put the Silverado in to cure. I opened up the front grilles for fine wire mesh, removed the scripts, and added the L88 hood and fender flares from the S&S Vette. Paint is Tamiya Gunmetal, 3 mist coats so far, it'll get a couple more wet coats after I get a few boogers out. Still to come a black Baldwin-Motion style stripe and red hashes on the driver's side front fender. More to come, thanks for looking.
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Wow, I didn't even give these "Uptown" Caddies a secong look til I started seeing builds like yours. Very impressive
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I thought about using MM Dark Bronze as a base coat but was worried it would come out way too dark. Hope ya don't mind, but I may have to borrow this combo from ya.
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Gowjobs, in the words of Mater "Aww Dang", that's exactly the color I was planning for my truck. I picked up two cans of Tamiya Clear Orange Sunday and am waiting on the bottle of Alclad Copper to use as a base coat that I ordered. What paint or combo is that??
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Thanks all, the more I look at her the more I'm leaning towards setting the ride height to just where the tires clear the fender openings. Not so high as to look like a 4x4 but not so low that it would be impractical in 1:1. According to the engraving on the sidewall of the tires these are 305/40/23's so that's quite a bit of meat to try to tuck up into the fenders. I'll have more pics once the "warts" that popped up in the primer coat are tended to. Thanks again.
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Thanks for the compliments. These pics were with just a bare frame (no suspension) to line up the cab and bed. I haven't decided which suspension I'll use yet. I've got the lowered pieces from the custom Silverado, stock, been pondering swapping in the AWD Escalade setup w/ the transfer case from my spare Rubicon or air-bagging it to set it as low as possible. Of these, I think only the Escalade set-up would be a challenge to make steerable.
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This is my second time around with this project. I fixed the warpage problems that destroyed the body work on the original by gluing spacers between the inner bed and the outer skin front and back to hold the bedsides in shape. Up front, I opened the grilles and valance, removed the center posts in the valance openings and filled the upper character line in the bumper to give it a pre-'03 SS look. I removed and filled all the door and tail gate handles and shaved the side trim and emblems. The hood and roll pan are out of the original Custom Silverado/WaveRider kit. Out back, the tail lights, tail gate and roll pan have been molded in and the rear whatever-it-is removed off the top on the tail gate. The rear tail light will be an LED-type strip between the bottom edge of the tail gate and the top of the roll pan. The molded-in exhaust tips were removed to make way for the aluminum tips from the Escalade kit. The wheels are also the 23" from the Escalade kit but the final version probably won't tuck them that deep. This is the first time I used the gel-type super glue to do bodywork and have to say I may not go back to using regular body-putty. I wanted a hard between-the-rails tonneau cover so I built a frame inside the bed with .040 x .080 strips, pulled it back out and skinned it with .015 sheet. I don't know yet if I'll hinge it so it can open and close or if I'll glue it shut but it's nice to have the option. Up next will be primer and finalizing any ghosting and/or other bodywork issues. Thanks for looking.
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Ok, I know why Revell packs the pickup bed inside the cab of their '99 Silverado kit (space saving in the box). That being said it's still rather agravating that they would be building in a warpage issue by doing so. I pulled my project out of the drawer hoping to get back into finishing it. I had filled the taillights by gluing in the original lenses, puttying them in and priming. I had spread the bedsides out to the width of the lenses when I did this but over time the bedsides pulled back in and cracked the glue joints and body putty. What I'm looking for are ideas as to what has worked for you guys in similar situations. I was thinking about adding shims between the wall of the inner bed and outer bedsides or using a spreader plate and heat to take out the "memory" of the plastic. TIA
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First off, I love the new C6 Vette especially the Z06. It looks great from every angle except (in my opinion) the dead-on face shot. It's almost as if GM stylists took the day off and the engineers took over. That rectangular slot for air intake has just hit me wrong since the first time I saw the new Vette. I started the Revell kit awhile back, got the body painted but just never could get over that snozz. The new Vette is a "bottom-breather" so I'm a little limited in my restyling efforts but here is my idea #1. Just after nasal surgery: Option #1: This is more of an evolutionary look from the C4 and C5 Vettes. It's hard to tell from the pic but the downward curve of the outer edges matches that of the headlights (I simply taped a couple of spare headlight covers from the snap kit to the back and cut the tape). The driving lights will be flush-mounted to the fascia in the outer corners of the opening (think the front turn signals from the '70-'72 Vettes) but I haven't mocked up the necessary buckets and lenses. I hope to have Option #2 mocked up tomorrow. It will be more in the style of the early C3's. Three openings (2 larger outside grills and a smaller center one) across the nose with the exception that the "bumper spars" will be slightly canted to follow the fender line down. This will also require that I raise the upper line of the opening to thin the leading edge of the nose and more closely match the proportions of the early C3's face. Opinions always welcome
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Other than the stock grille and decals is this a straight re-issue of the WaveRider truck?? I haven't seen a picture of the kit other than the box-art shot so I can't see if they tooled up new wheels for it or not. Funny thing, this kit is listed out first with the stock truck re-issue to follow but the LHS has had the stock truck for a couple of weeks and none of these. TIA
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Anyone have a list of Revell releases in 07?
LOBBS replied to LOBBS's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Thanks Bill. Glad to see the '99 Silverado Custom back and it looks like they've gone away from the horrendous custom front end in the WaveRider release. The '66 Elky will also be great to have back as mine has some damage on the rear quarter that may be difficult to repair. Now if Revell will add some more styles to their 20" wheels series with these new releases I'd be ecstatic. I picked up a couple of issues of the '69 Vette for the wheels although I have at least a half dozen of the previous releases of the '68 Vert/'69 Coupe tooling. -
Definitely my favorite take on the new Camaro to date!! Nice job John
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All the builds on my to-do list are heavy with the pro-touring theme. '69 Corvette-Kinsler EFI/T-56, widened TTII's in back, fender flares, L88 hood, sidepipes '69 Camaro-LS7 or EFI'd BBC/T-56, full AirRide suspension '66 Chevelle Sedan Delivery-Vortec 8100, Marc Nellis Chevy Rallies '64 Chevy Pickup-shortened frame and motor/tranny from '99 Silverado '67 El Camino-LS2/T-56
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Been pondering an idea-UPDATED 1-6-07
LOBBS replied to LOBBS's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
After reading your feedback and chatting things over my boss (a former project engineer) I believe I need to clarify what I was intending to offer. This will be a custom order business, no cookie-cutter layouts. The only stock I would have on hand at any given time would be the engraved material run in 4 to 6 foot lengths in the two offered heights. When placing an order, you would first select your pattern (cinder block, brick, cast concrete, etc.). Next, you would have to choose which wall height you would like: 4-inch (8 scale foot at 1/24th scale) for typical home garages or 8-inch (16 scale foot) for industrial/large motorsport operations. Price would be determined by the linear inch at each of these two wall heights. For example, if you wanted a 16 scale foot high by 20 scale foot long cinder block wall for a photo back drop you would place an order for 10 inches of cinder block wall at the 8-inch price point. A 20 scale foot by 20 scale foot home garage with cast concrete walls would require an order for 4 10-inch cast concrete walls at the 4-inch price point. You could then add features such as cut-outs for doors, windows, garage doors on any wall and exactly where you would like them and/or additional interior walls. A base, if requested, would also be cut at this time and my joining system added to ease assembly. Upon receiving an order, I would pull the engraved stock and cut it down to your specifications. Single walls would be cut off straight. Adjoining walls would be mitered and the joining system I'm working on added. This would then be shipped in kit form like any other model. There are people out there much more proficient at graphic art than I am and drawing programs are becoming increasingly more user-friendly so I'll let them handle the signage. Paint, assembly, accessorizing, etc. would be left up to the individual builder. By maintaining only the base stock, my hands-on time would be limited to loading raw material into the fixtures and starting programs. Once the program is started, I could "walk away" until the program ends and requires that the stock be flipped to engrave the other side or additional raw stock needs to be loaded. After an order is received, hands-on time would be what is necessary to cut to length and run the sub-routines for added features. That system seems to satisfy some of the concerns of eating into family time. Waiting to hear your input. -
1/12 Revell Fireball & Gambler Chopper- Mini Review
LOBBS replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I just opened the kit about 10 minutes before I took off for work but according to the kit instructions it's a panhead. I didn't have time to verify with my references. My father-in-law has a pair of EVO's so I'll head over there this weekend to figure out which it's closer to. -
1/12 Revell Fireball & Gambler Chopper- Mini Review
LOBBS replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Are all the motors the same? This version is a panhead but I was looking for an EVO. If they're all the same, I guess I'll head over to my father-in-law's garage and check his bikes to see what changes would have to be scratched up. TIA -
As some of you may know, I've been looking for a BBC Hilborn-type manifold to do an EFI conversion on for a long time. It'll be going in my pro-touring '69 Vette that has been stalled on the bench for at least the last 3 or 4 years. As this is a model of my dream car nothing less than exactly what I had envisioned would do, hence the long pause. This intake was offered by Best Resin and according to my research is more likely a Kinsler though it was sold as a Hilborn by them. It's the split-port design which I can find no reference of Hilborn ever producing. I'm not sure of the source but I'm pretty sure it was 1/24th scale as I had to do quite a bit of trimming to get it to fit the Vette's block. Now that's its fit, I can add the fuel rails, injectors, wires and ram tubes. It'll sit under an airbox feeding off the L88 cowl-induction hood. Anyways, if anything it's a good excuse to play with my new camera I got over the holdiays. Canon S3 with SuperMacro and image stabilization, no more blurry macro shots! Getting crackin on this one again is one of my New Year's resolutions and thanks for looking.
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I've been wanting to build a large motorsports garage diorama/display case for quite some time. Something along the lines of a scale 100' by 50' (4' by 2' in 1:1) building with 5 or 6 bay doors, a showroom, lifts, the works. I want to build it out of something durable (to survive future moves and curious kids) with scale correct thickness walls. From what I've seen, most of the pre-fab garage kits are made from thin plastic or resin and buying textured sheets from Plastruct/Evergreen to face a core of another material would be approaching prohibitively expensive. While weighing my options, a thought struck me. I work for a tool and die shop and spend most of my waking hours around CNC machines. One of those things could kick out the walls of a scale garage in 1/4" or 5/16" sheet in nothing flat. Now the chances of getting some after-hours time on a Mori would be around slim to none but Craftsman just put out a mini-CNC that'll handle plastic. Of course, reality set in about the time my wife told me I couldn't have a $1900 toy to build a garage for my other "toys". As marriage is an art form of compromise and negotiation, I countered with the prospect of making garages, displays, etc for others to offset the cost. Now in the "I'll think about it" phase, I'm throwing some feelers out to see if there's a market. With CNC, everything from the basic 1 or 2 bay garages up to the limits of the imagination could be offered in several different textures (cinder block, brick, cast concrete, stone, woodgrain) at a cost that I believe could certainly compete if not beat what's currently available while being scale correct in thickness and thus more sturdy. Good, bad or indifferent I'm looking for input. TIA.
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Saw the commercial on TV over the weekend and thought if it can cut wood it'll cut plastic. I'd have a hard time convincing the wife to let me drop $1900 though. I just switched jobs to do quality for a tool and die shop a few months back and we do mostly CNC machining so I could handle the programming end of it. Big dreams man, big dreams Sears Craftsman CompuCarve http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes