Dennis Lacy

Very cool project. The shortened body and lengthened doors give it a really sporty look, kinda like an early Thunderbird. To my eye, the modern windshield looks a little akward but it's hard to tell without the hood on. Have you considered chopping down the height of the windshield? It seems like a 1/4" would make the whole car look sleeker, especially if you try and imagine a top on it. It would also pull the ends of the windshield posts away from the passengers and (if it were a real car) ease entry and exit. I also think some chrome C5 ZO6 wheels would look cool. If your gonna do the steel wheel and stock caps consider some wider wheels and wide, low profile Z-rated tires for a nice retro look. It would be a shame to put all that great handling modern suspension under the car then have it handle like garbage because of some tall, narrow, bias-ply tires. (If it were a real car.)

Thanks for all the great advice, guys! An update: I wet sanded the primer with 2000 then sprayed the silver base last Thursday and it went very good. I let it dry all weekend and tonight I'm gonna wet sand the silver with 2000 then hopefully spray the purple tomorrow night. I'll give an update on the outcome.

I can honestly say that I have not yet seen a Concept Camaro (artwork, model, real or otherwise) that I have liked, until now! This is absolutely awesome! What great imagination and the perfect blend of old and new. It really, REALLY works.

I sprayed the interior panels and seat with the Tamiya tonight and it turned out just fine. Paint went on perfect and dried to the look I was trying to achieve. It's amazing how much better this paint is than Testors enamels! After I spray this project and the next with the enamel I already bought I'm switching to lacquer.

It's incredible how much better that kit looks with a correctly proportioned windshield, let alone the top you're designing for it. Add some steel disc wheels and bias-ply tires and outwardly you have an accurate looking post-WWII roadster. Very nice!

Thank you guys! The can says "for plastics" but I just wanted to be sure because I remember what happened years ago when I tried using Krylon directly over plastic. Dave, the plan is to put the Matt White onto the interior parts from Revell's '32 Roadster which are already molded in white and have been modified to work in the AMT '32 Roadster since it's interior "tub" is pretty primitive. I am going for a vinyl / leather look and Tamiya is the only brand the store had on-hand that had a Matt version of white, which should be not too shiney but not too dull. I saw the White Pearl but thought it would be better suited to the 60's and 70's plastic era of upholstry.

Title pretty much says it all. I've never used Tamiya before and just bought a can of TS-27 "Matt White" to paint the interior components of my project and didn't realize it was lacquer until after getting home. I searched previous posts and none that I found adressed this.

Thank you for the replies! It's good to know I was thinking along the right lines. I went to my LHS today and looked at my options for silver and there were about three that I liked. Going off the samples on the paint rack I chose plain-old Testors Silver. I'm not so concearned with the final hugh being slightly light or dark, I just want good coverage so the hugh will be what it will be. The spoon test is a great idea and I'll keep that in mind for a future paint job that may be more critical. Thanks also for the tips on spraying! I will definately post the finished model in the "under glass" section when it's finished.

So this is the first model car project / painting I've done in 10 years and after months of off and on work I don't want to screw up! The base kit for my project is the AMT '32 Ford Roadster and I am going to paint the body, wheels and some other components with Testors Colors by Boyd "Kandy Purple Pearl." Just today I have primed everything in Testors flat white on my newly constructed "overkill" paint stand and after sufficient drying time I will wetsand and reaply primer if necessary to fill in any flaws that show up. Now, before applying the purple I am thinking that a silver basecoat should be applied as pearls and metallics are usually fairly transparant and coverage should be better over silver, rather than white especially on panel lines and sharp corners where paint tends to run away from. I'm also thinking that with the silver underneath the final color and shade will show and look better. Is my "thinking" on the right track? Need some opinions please! BTW, these colors are all aerosol cans.