Dennis Lacy

WOW! Ask and ye shall recieve! Thank you, all, for all the great information concearning this kit. I, also, have been (so far) not willing to step up for a Salt Shaker on eBay, which is why I asked if the special parts could be found in any of the other issues. I'm not looking to make a "box art" version so the decals aren't of any real concearn to me. Bernard: Thank you for the links! I find it especially interesting that the instructions from the Trophy Series kit shows custom parts for the I-6 engine. Are these parts that have carried over with each re-release of the '37 Chevy? Does the convertible kit offer them too? Also, how do I get ahold of the version from Stevens International? I'm not familiar with them. Thanks again everyone!

In regards to AMT's '37 Chevy coupe "Salt Shaker" Bonneville kit, do any other versions of the '37 Chevy coupe contain the parts to build the Salt Shaker version, or is it a one time only thing?

I think the combination of "patina" sheetmetal and clean, new running gear looks really cool, always have. Here in SoCal this style of build is pretty common and when done right makes for a reliable, yet carefree hot rod that you can drive anywhere with no fear of breaking down or getting scratched. Awesome looking F-1!

Great looking F-1! The color really compliments the shape and lines and love the look with the old Centerlines. I'm one of those odd people that actually still likes the old Auto Drags, haha. Once again, fantastic job.

I always use Westleys Bleach White Tire Cleaner. I typically let the parts soak in it for about 4-5 days and this completely removes the clear coat under the plating. I have also, unintentionally, left parts (from old and newer issue kits) soaking for two weeks with no damage to the plastic. I keep the chemical in a Tupperware sandwhich container and have been using the same "batch" for over a year with no noticeable loss in potency.

The Vette looks really good, Rick. Great attention to detail. It goes to show that even tho it's a basic kit, the finished product can look very nice! This was actually the first kit I ever had. My dad bought it for me when I was about 7 years old along with some glue and a basic Testors paint set. We sat down on a Saturday and built it together. The body was molded in red so we didn't spray it, but we painted the chassis, engine and body details. I wish I still had it, but seeing this makes me want to get one and re-live my childhood. Thanks for stirring up some good memories!

Great looking roadster! The color is cool and the wires on whitewalls compliments it nicely. This car looks right along the lines of what a street rod shop from Connecticut called "POSIES" would build. Awesome job on this one Andy!

I would definately chop the top. Also, Bernard made a very good point about not sectioning the radiator shell so much. His version gives the front end a much more aggressive look that flows with the rest of the bodywork way better. Otherwise, awesome bodywork you've done so far!

It's really flattering that you guys are enjoying this build so much. I have to admit, I am too! I'm very pleased with the way this project is comming together. I've spent hours staring at this chassis and have it in my display case until the body and interior are ready, Oh, and those aren't slicks. They're just bald tires...

Awesome build, B. I was getting ready to write a reply to the build thread then noticed it was over here too! The '37 Chevy's are good looking cars, even better looking when done with good taste and you nailed this one. The color scheme and graphics are really sweet. In my trips to El Mirage to watch the SCTA races I've seen several '37 Coupes in full fenders running with very similar treatment to the body - ie. smoothed over. I'm sure your friend Don will be very flattered (I would be!).

ENGINE The engine was also done to represent a nicely equipped, yet street - friendly version of the Ford Flathead V8 (not overbuilt with good drivability). The engine block / trans, starter, headers and Edelbrock heads are from Revell’s ‘40 Ford kits. The pulley / belt set-up, fan and generator come from Revell’s ‘48 Ford Convertible. The intake manifold started as the 3 carburetor piece also from Revell’s ‘48, but the front carburetor riser was removed converting the manifold into a typical hi-rise, 2-carb “street†manifold. The Stromberg carbs and chrome air cleaners come from the Revell ‘40 kits and the stock oil filler / fuel pump is from Revell’s ‘48. The engine was modestly detailed using correct, early Ford dark green engine paint on the block / trans with the timing cover and oil pan bolts detailed in black. Testors Silver was applied to the heads and intake manifold giving the appearance of cast-aluminum and all of the head and intake bolts are tediously detailed in black. The carbs were finished in Testors Aluminum which bears a close resemblance to the cast pot-metal of the real thing. The bases were done in Gloss Black as the real bases are cast-iron. The oil filler neck was detailed in a combination of Gloss Black and Silver as the tube and cap are steel and the base is cast-aluminum. The fuel pump was finished in Aluminum, again, to represent cast pot-metal. The headers were de-chromed and finished in Testors Flat Black. I have not yet painted the exhaust pipes. TEASER! Lastly, here are some teaser pictures of the body shell in place on the chassis. The body work is completed and ready for primer. Notice in the close-up of the engine that the relief in the firewall fit’s the engine perfectly, like it was made for it. Can’t beat that! MORE TO COME SOON (I hope!)

UPDATE 4/23/09 - FINALLY! It’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread because, unfortunately, it’s been a while since I’ve been able to work on this project due to life obligations. Prepping, painting and assembly takes patience and I finally had enough time last week to focus on getting all of the chassis parts in paint without feeling stressed. I took a systematic approach and I’m happy to report all went well - the first time! My goal with this roadster project has been to build a hot rod representative of a nicely finished, Southern California roadster in the narrow post-war years of 1946 - 1948. While many cars of the time served double-duty as weekday drivers, then were stripped down for dry lakes competition on the weekend, I wanted this roadster to represent a nicely finished, street-only hot rod that would never see the dirt. I also don’t want to “over build†the car, as is very common with newly constructed, early-style hot rods today. Despite what some people think, not every hot rod ran a quick-change rear axle and a full-race V8. In fact, it was more common to see more “average†cars because the majority of hot rodders could not afford all the fancy equipment. I want this build to represent the more typical hot rod. CHASSIS Here is the nearly completed chassis which has been finished nicely, yet basically. The frame and suspension are coated in Tamiya Gloss Black while some of the smaller parts like the lever shocks and master cylinder are done in Semi-Gloss Black. For the tough, no nonsense look the wheels were also done in Gloss Black with big & little black wall Firestone’s. I haven’t decided on what style hub caps to use. The components I used to make the chassis have been detailed in earlier posts. CONTINUED...

Great looking roadster! It really reminds me of a retro '32 roadster that was built by SoCal Speed Shop a few years ago. While the full size car was black, it has a lot of the same features as yours such as the roots-blown flathead and retro Halibrand-style knock-offs. Love all the traditional details you worked in like the brakes, hairpins and quickchange. Awesome!

Wow Dave, your panel truck sure turned out neat! I like it from every angle! Not everyone understands the mixing of weathered and shiney parts, but I think it sets the truck off perfectly and is very representative of one of the more popular styles these days, especially here in SoCal. I really like the Edmunds air filters, I didn't know those were even available! I don't think anyone else caught on (?), but one of my favorite details is the hinged windshield.

Hey B, that roadster turned out really cool! I like the colors and details you used, like something right out of a mid-'50s Hot Rod or Rod & Cutom magazine. Great work, especially considering it was a learning experience. Can't wait to see what the experience leads to down the road!

UPDATE! Got some more work done on my tribute ‘40 Ford Coupe. In keeping with my father’s original, I needed to come up with some over-the-frame headers with pipes that extend out from under the rear of the front fenders. The headers on his car were made from several pieces but I had these nice chrome headers from AMT’s ‘25 Ford Roadster kit that have the correct port arrangement and have long, tapered pipes extending back so I wanted to make them work. The problem lies in that the exhaust-side of the hemi heads point nearly straight down and the headers weren’t made to mount that way. I had to come up with some solution and I didn’t want to modify the headers because the chrome would get messed up. After staring at the engine for quite a while I decided that since it really wouldn’t show I would fudge things to work the way I needed. I took a strip of scrap plastic and some header flanges from the parts bin and made some adaptors so that the headers could mount from the side. A little goofy, but it’ll get the job done. The next two shots show the left side header loosely mocked into place (it kinda stayed put) and how it drapes over the top of the frame and then how it will exit under the back of the front fender. This will be very similar to my Dad’s car, the only difference being mine will only have the race headers and not the secondary “street†exhaust like his does. To clear the over-the-frame headers the inner fender panels needed to be relieved. I also finished the rough bodywork by removing the side and hood trim. I left the center hood trim but sanded it down to leave a peak down the middle of the hood to give it some character. I also cut the necessary hole for the injector scoop to stick thru. That’s it for now. More to come soon…

Wow Bernard, that roadster is turning out pretty dang cool! Sometimes less is more, ya know? Great color choice too. Can't wait to see it with all the trimmings.

I couldn't have said it any better! It's amazing just how good that sedan delivery body looks now without all that junk, it really flows nicely. Looking forward to some progress pics.

Awesome Hollywood, Dave! I was studying the the body and trying to decide what you used to make it. Obviously a ton of work went into it, but generally it looks like you combined the shell of a '37 Ford sedan with the nose of a '39 Chevy, the lower grill area from a '40 Willy's, and the front fenders a cross between '36 Ford and '40 Willy's. The frame, floor and part of the Corvette rear suspension look like they definately started from one of Revellogram's '37 Ford kits.

Bernard - This is looking really good so far! Awesome stance and proportions. The frame and pan look like they fit together really well and I like how you tied the wheel wells into the design. Thanks a lot for getting the wheels in my head spinning once again. As if I don't have enough to try and stay focussed on right now! PS: Ever seen the Jim Khougaz '32 roadster? It's an old lakes car that was restored 5-6 years ago. It's channeled with a full aluminum bellypan, louvered hood, etc. I thought of it the second I saw your build. http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j109/327...pg?t=1237528587

One of the last major things on the to-do list is to make a front floor board. I scoured my early Ford kits trying to find something I could make work. The floor needed to have a small hump in it to clear the engine / transmission and I finally realized I could use the floor from Revell’s ‘37 pickup. The only problem (and it wasn’t much of one) was that the floor is molded to the rest of the interior panels. So, out came the cutter! After careful measuring the floor was trimmed to fit into the roadster body. The finished front floor. The brake and clutch pedals also come from the ‘37 pickup, but I shortened the stalks by half ‘cause to me they stuck up too high. I also had to move the clutch pedal to the right. I drilled a new, shallow locating hole halfway between the original clutch pedal hole and the brake pedal. (Another good thing about this floor section is that it has molded-on detail of the original spoon-shaped accelerator pedal.) I used a round file to relieve the upper drivers side for the steering column and drilled a locating hole for a handbrake handle just to the right of the center hump. The finished floor set in place inside the ‘29 roadster body: The finished interior panels posed together. The kick panels had to be trimmed to match the shape and angle of the toe panel. Another piece I’m considering installing is this hot water heater box from Revell’s ‘50 Ford pickup. It would be mounted to the inside center of the firewall and when the dashboard is in about ½ visible. Might add a nice touch to the interior? Still thinking about it… I have to double check, but I think all the fab work is done except for the radiator. I’m going to try and get that done this week and get some stuff in primer by the weekend. I will continue to update as parts and assemblies get painted and detailed so stay tuned, lots more to come.

what a great concept! That scratched together front suspension is sweet as is the set-back engine and the details you've added to it. You're off to a good start replicating the inner body structure. You must have found a good reference picture because the inner door looks accurate. Really looking forward to seeing this one up on it's wheels!

Very interesting frame design, Mike. I have seen 1:1 frames Z'd front and rear before, but I can't recall seeing the front done to that extreme. It definately accomplishes getting the stance nice and low and the engine up off the ground. It's cool that the stock center crossmember can be conveniently used as a trans mount. It's also neat that the rear of the frame makes a platform to mount the PU bed to. I'm also with the others, I'd shorten the PU bed at least by half. Looking forward to seeing more!

You're off to a terrific start, David! Perfect stance and proportions and that chassis is insanely cool and well engineered. Looking forward to seeing more!