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Dennis Lacy

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Everything posted by Dennis Lacy

  1. Hey Mike, your A-bone is really comming together great! In the begining it had all the makings of one of those Kulture lifestyle rat rods, but in all it's painted glory all that goes away - and that's a good thing! Looking forward to seeing it finished. Awesome color combo, btw.
  2. Hey Dave, thanks for the detailed info on the SD conversion. The proportions just looks spot-on, I can't get over it! Are you actually adding fuel injectors to that set-up? I have one of those '41 Woody kits with that engine and it just looks funny with the fuel rail hanging in the breeze. I'd think it would be real easy to whip out some Bosch-style injectors out of a couple diameters of tubing. As for Sedan #3: It's my opinion that it would look cool with the roof insert opened up but only if you could add the wood bows, maybe even some chicken wire... I would not move the axle in front of the grill on a suicide perch. I think the extra wheelbase would look too cartoon-ish (rat rod junk). If you want to get a little more concieved length out of it chop the top another scale inch. Will make it look lower and longer.
  3. I have to admit I rarely look at threads about '60s and '70s cars cuz I'm not really into them, but was drawn in by the title. THIS is an AWESOME project. The engine and turbo set-up is very convincing. I know that those intercoolers exist because I've held one in my hand. The exhaust system came out great. The tails are positioned just right. I also think you should leave the rear wheels/tires tucked like they are, it's a little more discrete which goes with your low-key, home-built theme. Can't wait to see more!
  4. Nice! I wouldn't have thought there was a kit of this car. Your build brings back memories of when my Dad bought one of those for my Mom brand new, only it was the turbocharged version called the "Turbo Z" and was dark red and silver tutone. Had a turbo 4cyl and 5spd manual. I think it took my Mom about a month to hate it so it was sold to one of my cousins. This must have been in '86 or '87.
  5. Hey Dave, that Sedan Delivery is looking awesome! The pinstripe really sets it off. About the only thing I'd change is the whitewalls simply because I don't care for them. So, in addition to making the filler panels for the rear windows you also had to scribe the rear door line as well as add hinge detail and the drip rail. You did a killer job of it that's for sure! I'd swear you just used a resin body.
  6. Hey Dave, awesome looking Tudor! It's amazing how a few simple, thought-out changes can have such an impact on that kit. You're so right about the supercharger, the detail on it is phenominal. Can't wait to see the other two sedans.
  7. Converting an early Ford front end to 1/4 eliptic springs still requires the use of radius rods. The springs job is to dampen the impact of bumps and other road irregularities. The radius rods job is to locate the axle and allow it move up and down through an arch while controlling caster at the same time.
  8. What a great project you have here! The stance and the look are just right and lend themselves nicely to the rat rod scene, if not a little better because the workmanship is too nice, haha. Neat idea sanding down then cutting out the door panels and bulkhead to look like the inner body structure. While it is nothing like what the real inner structure of a '32 roadster looks like, it really works. And lets face it, most of the people that would see it probably don't know the difference. Those seats are cool too but I'm especially digging the wood floor. Can't wait to see more!
  9. UPDATE 5-24-09 Well, I finally have an update for my Tribute ‘40. I turned the screws on this project in the last week and a half and got the chassis done. Did up the frame in Tamiya Bright Silver then went back and hand painted the floor areas flat black (what a PITA!). Also sprayed the front and rear axles in silver then hand painted the springs and brake plates flat black. Since I didn’t have any old Parts Pack wheels and tires at my disposal like my Dad used, I deviated on my version with the chrome reverse rear wheels and Goodyear slicks from AMT’s ‘57 Belair. Up front I used the ‘40 kits stock wheels, tires, trim rings, hubcaps and painted the wheels black for the tough look. In keeping with the original, the body is going to be orange so to add some contrast I flowed a 50/50 mix of Testors orange and thinner into the “Ford Deluxe†letters on the hubcaps. The Chrysler is from AMT’s ‘32 roadster. It’s painted with Model Master Blue-Gray Metallic. I detailed the supercharger and valve covers with some flat black and used the injector scoop from the ‘40 kits Buick engine. The headers come from AMT’s ‘25 roadster and with some creative tweaking I managed to get them mated up to the Chrysler. Like my Dad’s, they have long, tapered tubes which will stick out from under the fenders although mine are aimed more towards the ground. If you look back in the thread you can see how I was originally going to adapt the headers to the engine but the more I looked at it the more it looked hokey, so I figured out how to get them to attach directly to the heads. I have a little more body work to finish up but I’m hoping to get the orange laid down by the end of the week as well as get the interior painted so after some drying time I can get this project under wraps.
  10. Hahaha, I know exactly what you mean. My girlfriends 5yo boy does the same thing to me with the couple of Transformers he has. Also, with Lego's. Whenever he gets a new kit he asks me to help build it and within minutes it's crashd into pieces. One of these times I'm going to mess with him and put one together with some Zap-A-Gap. That'll show him!
  11. Hey Dave, thanks for those links! It looks like both of the Ford bodies are the same part. Maybe Mason City picked up the production from all American. That Mercury body is kinda sad looking. Looks like one would have to spend a lot of time detailing it to make it presentable.
  12. Hey Dave, your F-1 pickup turned out so awesome! I think the proportions are just right and the customizing isn't over done. It's also sweet you chose a T-Bird engine, definately the road less traveled. I'm quite partial to these trucks since my Dad owned two '50s. The first one had been kinda butchered as the previous person had installed a 302/C4 and you could say they lacked finess. In the end the truck wasn't "good enough" so he sold it and found a completely original, low miles, never wrecked truck to replace it. It's only downfall was that it had an I-6. He acquired a good 302/C4 that he wanted to install but never could bring himself to because the truck was too nice to mess with, which is ultimately why he sold it. Both his '50s were early production that still had the character buldges in the bed sides like '48/'49, which I think looks better than the later flat sides like the bed in the Revell kit. I wonder if one of the resin companies makes a panel truck body to fit the Revell kit? Those are sweet too. He had a '48 but it was just passing through as he bought it right and flipped it a couple months later for a good profit.
  13. To break up all te blonde jokes: A bear and a rabbit are pooping next to eachother in the woods. The bear turns to the rabbit and asks, "excuse me, do you ever have a problem with poop sticking to your fur?" The rabbit replies, "No." So the bear wiped his butt with the rabbit.
  14. WOW! Ask and ye shall recieve! Thank you, all, for all the great information concearning this kit. I, also, have been (so far) not willing to step up for a Salt Shaker on eBay, which is why I asked if the special parts could be found in any of the other issues. I'm not looking to make a "box art" version so the decals aren't of any real concearn to me. Bernard: Thank you for the links! I find it especially interesting that the instructions from the Trophy Series kit shows custom parts for the I-6 engine. Are these parts that have carried over with each re-release of the '37 Chevy? Does the convertible kit offer them too? Also, how do I get ahold of the version from Stevens International? I'm not familiar with them. Thanks again everyone!
  15. In regards to AMT's '37 Chevy coupe "Salt Shaker" Bonneville kit, do any other versions of the '37 Chevy coupe contain the parts to build the Salt Shaker version, or is it a one time only thing?
  16. I think the combination of "patina" sheetmetal and clean, new running gear looks really cool, always have. Here in SoCal this style of build is pretty common and when done right makes for a reliable, yet carefree hot rod that you can drive anywhere with no fear of breaking down or getting scratched. Awesome looking F-1!
  17. Great looking F-1! The color really compliments the shape and lines and love the look with the old Centerlines. I'm one of those odd people that actually still likes the old Auto Drags, haha. Once again, fantastic job.
  18. I always use Westleys Bleach White Tire Cleaner. I typically let the parts soak in it for about 4-5 days and this completely removes the clear coat under the plating. I have also, unintentionally, left parts (from old and newer issue kits) soaking for two weeks with no damage to the plastic. I keep the chemical in a Tupperware sandwhich container and have been using the same "batch" for over a year with no noticeable loss in potency.
  19. The Vette looks really good, Rick. Great attention to detail. It goes to show that even tho it's a basic kit, the finished product can look very nice! This was actually the first kit I ever had. My dad bought it for me when I was about 7 years old along with some glue and a basic Testors paint set. We sat down on a Saturday and built it together. The body was molded in red so we didn't spray it, but we painted the chassis, engine and body details. I wish I still had it, but seeing this makes me want to get one and re-live my childhood. Thanks for stirring up some good memories!
  20. Great looking roadster! The color is cool and the wires on whitewalls compliments it nicely. This car looks right along the lines of what a street rod shop from Connecticut called "POSIES" would build. Awesome job on this one Andy!
  21. I would definately chop the top. Also, Bernard made a very good point about not sectioning the radiator shell so much. His version gives the front end a much more aggressive look that flows with the rest of the bodywork way better. Otherwise, awesome bodywork you've done so far!
  22. It's really flattering that you guys are enjoying this build so much. I have to admit, I am too! I'm very pleased with the way this project is comming together. I've spent hours staring at this chassis and have it in my display case until the body and interior are ready, Oh, and those aren't slicks. They're just bald tires...
  23. Awesome build, B. I was getting ready to write a reply to the build thread then noticed it was over here too! The '37 Chevy's are good looking cars, even better looking when done with good taste and you nailed this one. The color scheme and graphics are really sweet. In my trips to El Mirage to watch the SCTA races I've seen several '37 Coupes in full fenders running with very similar treatment to the body - ie. smoothed over. I'm sure your friend Don will be very flattered (I would be!).
  24. ENGINE The engine was also done to represent a nicely equipped, yet street - friendly version of the Ford Flathead V8 (not overbuilt with good drivability). The engine block / trans, starter, headers and Edelbrock heads are from Revell’s ‘40 Ford kits. The pulley / belt set-up, fan and generator come from Revell’s ‘48 Ford Convertible. The intake manifold started as the 3 carburetor piece also from Revell’s ‘48, but the front carburetor riser was removed converting the manifold into a typical hi-rise, 2-carb “street†manifold. The Stromberg carbs and chrome air cleaners come from the Revell ‘40 kits and the stock oil filler / fuel pump is from Revell’s ‘48. The engine was modestly detailed using correct, early Ford dark green engine paint on the block / trans with the timing cover and oil pan bolts detailed in black. Testors Silver was applied to the heads and intake manifold giving the appearance of cast-aluminum and all of the head and intake bolts are tediously detailed in black. The carbs were finished in Testors Aluminum which bears a close resemblance to the cast pot-metal of the real thing. The bases were done in Gloss Black as the real bases are cast-iron. The oil filler neck was detailed in a combination of Gloss Black and Silver as the tube and cap are steel and the base is cast-aluminum. The fuel pump was finished in Aluminum, again, to represent cast pot-metal. The headers were de-chromed and finished in Testors Flat Black. I have not yet painted the exhaust pipes. TEASER! Lastly, here are some teaser pictures of the body shell in place on the chassis. The body work is completed and ready for primer. Notice in the close-up of the engine that the relief in the firewall fit’s the engine perfectly, like it was made for it. Can’t beat that! MORE TO COME SOON (I hope!)
  25. UPDATE 4/23/09 - FINALLY! It’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread because, unfortunately, it’s been a while since I’ve been able to work on this project due to life obligations. Prepping, painting and assembly takes patience and I finally had enough time last week to focus on getting all of the chassis parts in paint without feeling stressed. I took a systematic approach and I’m happy to report all went well - the first time! My goal with this roadster project has been to build a hot rod representative of a nicely finished, Southern California roadster in the narrow post-war years of 1946 - 1948. While many cars of the time served double-duty as weekday drivers, then were stripped down for dry lakes competition on the weekend, I wanted this roadster to represent a nicely finished, street-only hot rod that would never see the dirt. I also don’t want to “over build†the car, as is very common with newly constructed, early-style hot rods today. Despite what some people think, not every hot rod ran a quick-change rear axle and a full-race V8. In fact, it was more common to see more “average†cars because the majority of hot rodders could not afford all the fancy equipment. I want this build to represent the more typical hot rod. CHASSIS Here is the nearly completed chassis which has been finished nicely, yet basically. The frame and suspension are coated in Tamiya Gloss Black while some of the smaller parts like the lever shocks and master cylinder are done in Semi-Gloss Black. For the tough, no nonsense look the wheels were also done in Gloss Black with big & little black wall Firestone’s. I haven’t decided on what style hub caps to use. The components I used to make the chassis have been detailed in earlier posts. CONTINUED...
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