Dennis Lacy

Haven’t posted any builds on this forum in quite some time so I thought I’d share some stuff. This is a combination of the chassis from Revell’s ‘32 Sedan and all of the “sheet metal†from a Lindberg ‘34 Pickup. The chassis was lowered front and back by trimming the mounting tab on the front axle and the air springs on the rear axle - otherwise the suspension is kit-stock. The cab was chopped 1/8†of an inch and the bed shortened 9/16†of an inch. Headlights are from an AMT ‘36 Ford while the matching bullet-shaped taillights are from a Revell ‘37 Ford. The bed cover comes in the ‘34 pickup kit and it was shortened to fit the bed. Wheels and rear tires are from Revell’s ‘32 5-Window Coupe and the front tires are some unknown eBay finds. The Flathead engine block, front cover, distributor and headers are from the ‘32 Sedan. The cylinder heads are the stock versions from a Revell ‘48 Ford. The intake manifold is the Edelbrock Super-Dual from a Revell ‘40 Coupe and the Holley 94 carburetors and stock air filters and oil filler tube came from a couple of Revell ‘37 Pickups. On the inside the floor panel, bench seat, dashboard and steering column were used from the ‘34 Pickup kit with the custom steering wheel from an AMT ‘36 5-Window Coupe. Key colors are Tamiya “Light Gunmetalâ€, “British Greenâ€, “Olive Drab 2â€, “Semi-Gloss Black†and “Gloss Black.â€

This is an absolutely awesome build Dave! I love the frame you made for it, very nice work. There's only one problem; The frame on the real car was probably no-where near as nice. In fact, it was probably a total butcher job!

Thanks for the nice comments guys! This build was a lot of fun. Ken: I did paint the hood top (molded on sides were cut off) but it came up about 1/16" too long. I need to trim as much off the front edge and touch up the paint then it will have a hood. I agree that it should have one.

Got my Revell ‘37 Pickup just about wrapped up and I’m very happy with the results. It has the “look†I had pictured in my noggin throughout the build process. I wanted this build to represent a clean, yet serviceable hot rod shop truck. Something that could showcase a shops workmanship without being too nice to actually drive and run local errands in. Using a large amount of the provided parts in the ‘37 PU kit, I replaced the front suspension with the dropped axle and split wishbones from the rod version of Revell’s ‘40 Coupe and the 2-speed Columbia rear axle from the stock version of the ‘40 Coupe kit. By doing so and flattening the front and rear springs resulted in a nice raked, front wheels tucked stance but kept it out of the weeds. The stock ‘37 wheels were used but modified to fit into the whitewall big & little tires from Revell’s ‘31 Sedan / ‘29 Pickup. The Flathead engine block, front cover/water pumps, starter, exhaust manifolds, stock single exhaust and water hoses come from the ‘37 Pickup while the Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock triple intake, carburetors, air filters, pulleys/drive belt and generator come from Revell’s ‘32 Sedan. Since the original fan and shroud couldn’t be used with the offset mounted generator I attached an electric fan to the stock radiator from one of Revell’s ‘32 kits. I de-chromed the grill, headlights and side mirror and painted them for more of a commercial look. I also sanded down the headlight mounts to get the lights tucked down closer to the fenders for less of a bug-eye look. The windshield frame (which is molded with the windshield) was covered in Bare Metal Foil. Bumpers front and rear were ditched for a sleeker look. The stock rear lights were replaced with fender-mounted ‘39 “tear drop†lights and the license plate is mounted under the bed to get things un-cluttered. I had planned to run the hood top only and painted it but found that the front edge of it will need to be trimmed to fit so when I get a chance I’ll address that. The interior was assembled kit-stock with the exception of the Revell ‘40 Ford steering wheel. Paint is Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black, Tamiya Light Blue and Model Master Flat Gull Gray. So there it is, another one for the display case!

Thanks for all the nice comments everyone! I had a lot of fun with this one. Hey Roger, thanks for the compliment! I tried to follow the link you provided but it no work. I tried pasting it in the address bar too but that also no work. Maybe try again?

Hot rodders accumulate “stuff.†Sometimes there’s “stuff†left over from a build because we changed our mind a couple times. Sometimes our friends drop off their extra “stuff†in our garage to clean out their own. Sometimes we buy “stuff†at the swap meet or on eBay because it’s neat and the price was right. Will we ever use all this extra “stuff?†Who the heck knows. Who the heck cares? It sure is cool to look at! But…, what if one day we were standing in our garage having a frosty beverage and admiring that beautiful, spared-no-expense traditional Rod we built and our attention wandered to the walls, the shelves, the rafters, under the workbench, and we suddenly realized, “Dang! I have enough extra “stuff†to build a whole ‘nuther car!†A nice original “A†frame leaning against the side of the house. A decent ‘25 “T†roadster body hanging from the rafters that we pulled out of an old ladies back yard down the street. Sure, it needs a couple patch panels but we know how to do that and the rest of it sure is straight! That old dropped axle and split wishbones we found at the swap meet for a fraction of what it was worth because the seller didn’t “know†what he had. That low-miles, rebuilt A “bangerâ€, trans and rear axle that our friend gave us when he bought a restored “A†only to pitch the drive train for a “me too†350/350/9inch. The Kelsey wires we were gonna use on the last build but went with “steelies†instead. That box full of Stromberg cores thanks to evilBay. That old sprint car wheel that’s been hanging on a nail for 20 years. Those sedan buckets we bought cause we thought we could use them, then come to find out they didn’t work for “that project.†Hell yeah, this is some really GOOD “stuff!†This build needs to be different though. We’re tired of spending years building one car. Sweating all those details. Trying to make it perfect. No. This is gonna be a quickie. Give ourselves a deadline. 6 months. Yeah, we can do that. What about paint? Screw paint. Do the body work good ‘nuff and spray it with some gray suede. That ‘shield is way too tall, chop that sucker in half. Much better! Rattle can the running gear black. Engine’s gotta pop though, it’s the center piece. Orange will make it stand out, can’t miss orange. Throw a re-pop Winfield on it and some other speed goodies to give it a little more juice. Paint the wheels orange too and wrap ’em in some bias-ply ‘Stones. Have Jose trim the buckets in brown vinyl for a few bucks and a 12-pack. Upholstery? Screw that too. Rubber floor mat gets the job done. Trim it with an old “T†shell and lights for some more old timey! Now we’re talkin! Been building Rods for 30 years, never had this much fun! Amen.

Hey B! This A-bone of yours is looking really sweet! I'll second the dullcoat, gave the car just the look it needs. Nice job pulling the interior pieces together too. The Chevy dash is a nice departure from the typical '32 or '40 swap. That Nailhead looks cool in there and will look even cooler when those headers get put on it. Can't wait to see more!

Mis-information on the HAMB? Never! I'm glad what I wrote came across the way I intended. There is a lot of mis-information out there regarding these scarce trucks. I know that in '32 only 593 cabs were produced and ended up on everything from regular 1/2 ton chassis to big, 157" wheelbase dump trucks! The cab sheet-metal was the same in '33 and '34 and even less were made in those years. The version your building is a pretty popular alternative (using passenger car styling) cause not only are the real ones hard to come by, but they're fairly unattractive to many people - especially the windshield. They were not one of the higher class models Ford offered and were basically slapped together. I think that the passenger car-based version is a good idea and can be very cool looking when done properly. From the traditional-influenced builds I've seen you do I'm sure this one will be no exception. And, using the finished cab as a resin plug is a good idea. I'm sure quite a few people would be interested in building they're own RPU.

Fletch: This is a really neet project and not one I have seen done before? I hate that my brain works like this but I can't help it! The 1:1 truck you posted pictures of would be considered a "phantom". A real '32 RPU cab shares nothing in common with a passenger car cab except for the inner door handles. You may already be aware of this? I'm not trying to be hostile in any way, just pointing it out. The closed cab pickups and the roadster pickups used the same same gas tank under the seat, which doubled as the seat riser. The bottom seat cushoins were split 50/50 and removeable to access the filler cap under the passenger side. Both cushions are identicle and both have springs and padding attached to a square-shaped wood frame. The fuel tank has two raised square areas that fit into the center holes of the wooden cushion frames and hold them in place. I know this to be fact as I own a 1:1 '32 pickup and my Dad owned a real-deal 1:1 '32 roadster pickup for 25 years. If it were me I would leave the rear fenders alone and work them into the bed. One of the problems with the Lindberg '34 pickup kit is that the pickup rear fenders are too narrow to get a decent sized rear tire under. Also, '32 and '33-'34 pickup beds are dimensionally the same and even share the same front panel, framework and tailgate. The bed floor was the same except that in '33 and '34 there was a rectangular plate that could be removed to access the fuel line fitting at the fuel pickup in the top of the gas tank as the '33 and '34 had the tank was mounted under the bed. The difference in the bed sides lies in the beads to accomodate the different fender positions. The '32 pickup had a 106" wheelbase whereas the the '33-'34 had 112", so the fenders needed to be moved rearward in the latter two years.

Bernard, the paint is Tamiya Maroon TS11 over dark gray Duplicolor primer. I'm not exactly sure what the origin of the rear tires is. I forget where, but someone mentioned in a thread that they were in some AMT kits in the 60's. I found two sets, plus a slightly wider set with otherwise identical markings, in a stash of my Dad's old kits and parts. And thank you to everyone who has commented on this build. I appreciate all your compliments!

Well, my ‘29 Ford Roadster A-V8 is finally “under glass†and I am quite pleased with the results. Actually, I get a big goofy grin every time I look at it. It’s a weird feeling when a car project gets finished. After hours of work and imagining what it’s going be like, all of the sudden it’s done and you’re sitting there looking at it. The purpose of this build was to pay homage to my favorite era of Hot Rods, the immediate post-war of 1946-1948. Actually, I’m quite fanatical about this narrow window in the past, when hot rods were more than just a pretty face at a car show. These cars were often times the owners only mode of transportation and had to double as their race car on the weekends where they competed for top speed bragging rights on the dry-lake beds of Southern California. Within the next few years peoples priorities would change with the popularity of hot rod shows and magazine coverage. People started competing on an appearance level with fancy paint and lots of chrome, major racing interest shifted to drag racing and just like that the romance of the dry-lakes era was gone. Despite the 1:1 movement of the last 10 years (or so) toward traditional hot rods, many of them are over-done with all the gizmos and gadgets the builder can hang on them. However, back in the day this was rarely the case as the average hot rod owner couldn’t afford all those fancy race parts. Typically, the cars were simple in appearance and appointment with the emphasis on speed. So here is my “average†guys Roadster, a ‘29 Ford without fenders, a few tasteful (yet affordable) body upgrades like the ‘32 grill, custom 3-piece hood and chopped ‘n chromed windshield. A dropped axle with split wishbone, juice brakes and disc wheels fitted with ‘48 caps and all painted black for simple and affordable. A nicely “built†Flathead V8 with all the popular speed equipment and dual glass-pack exhaust. A nice tuck ‘n roll interior with a Stewart Warner instrument panel, ‘37 wheel and hot water heater for those cold days. Last but not least, a clean and simple Maroon paint job - not perfect, but not bad either. Build thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...t=0#entry155002

Well, happy I could help! And, if you need help on future projects my foot is always ready.

Dang Don, that's a great looking Vicky with lots of really sweet period details. Love the way you did the plug wires correctly for a '60s era SBC. I don't think I've ever seen that done on a model before. Just one question: Couldn't you have done better on the paint?

Wow, that turned out so awesome! The color is very nice and the stance is killer. NICE!

Hey Lyle, the conversion you did looks really good and I'm glad to see you going with full fenders. Is this one slated to be another traditional hot rod or more of a street rod?

Thanks for the nice words guys! Been working steadilly since yesterday morning to get this project wrapped and it's moving forward at a good pace and so far with no problems or surprises. I guess all that time fitting and fitting and fitting payed off. All that's left to do is make some upper radiator hoses, attach the hood sides, make a windshield "glass" and install the tail lights. I think I can handle it by tonight. Gonna try. Hopefully I'll have some finished pictures posted tomorrow night!

I say that's a nice improvement! Go with those.

I brush painted by default! I don't own an airbrush so I have no choice. This paint goes on well and with a good quality brush you don't really see any brush stroked. I found practicing before hand and on the actual parts that it's best not to try and get to much coverage to soon, rather be patient and build it up. It's kiind of like staining wood. The cool thing is the paint dries fast so if you have a handful of parts to do like I did, by the time you put a coat on the last one the first one is ready for another. I just kept going around until I was happy. I will also say primer is a must so it has something to grab. I made some swatches on bare, white plastic and it was a PIA.

No! I will not start another project until at least the roadster is done! Hahaha. But, luckilly this weekend is final assembly time so next week I might drag that '30 kit out. I've already been planning it in my head and have even played with it some. Thanks for the run down on the Buick engine options. The reason I asked is because I couldn't imagine you would use the one from the AMT '40 coupe / sedan delivery. Saying it's "soft" is being generous. I think it has it's place in a basic build up like those old AMT kits, but not in what you're doing. And I'm not anti-aftermarket but, if I can build it or make it I will! That Parts Box Buick is frickin' awesome tho. I've looked at their site a few times and I think at some point an order is, um, in order.

UPDATE 7-18-09 - INTERIOR FINISHED! I am happy to report that the interior components for this project are now done. (Yay!) Here is sample picture of the paint Bernard (GBK1) suggested and the two shades I used: I used Dupli-Color white primer then followed up with 8 layers of the above paint brushed on. By the 6th coat I had attained full coverage and followed with 2 more coats to richen it up. Using this paint requires a bit of patience but I think the end result is worth the effort. Here is a couple photos showing all of the finished interior pieces: To re-cap what I used: - Floor cut out of interior tub from Revell ‘37 Ford Pickup. The pedals also came from this kit. Shifter and handbrake handle from parts bin. - Side panels / kick panels from Revell ‘32 Ford Roadster. - Seat from AMT ‘32 Ford Phaeton. - Dashboard from Monogram ‘32 Ford Roadster. - Hot water heater box from Revell ‘50 Ford Pickup. - Steering wheel from Revell ‘37 Ford Pickup. I also finished the wheels by adding the hubcaps from Revell’s ‘48 Ford Convertible. I carefully flowed thinned black paint into the FORD letters on the caps. This will be the last update for this project because the next step is final assembly then onto the display case! I’m really excited to see it come together and will post finished pictures “Under Glass†as soon as I can. Thank you to all who have followed and commented on this project, it’s been a lot of fun!

Mike: I didn't mean to blow off your suggestion as it was a good one. Next time I'm at the hobby store I'll get some semi-gloss and flat clear coat for future use. Thanks! Shane: Thank you for the nice compliments. This project has been a bit of an undertaking for me - a person trying to get their skills back up to speed after such a long break - and I dove in head first with all the fabrication that's been required. Luckilly, I have a lot more patience and maturity now that has enabled me to work on my projects in a totally new light and have results that satisfy me.

Another cool build you have going, Bernard! I've always thought '30/'31 Ford coupes are one of the most versatile hot rod bodies ever made. You can do just about anything with them. Your chop and channel proportions look good and that sectioned radiator shell is a nice touch. Gotta do it to get those proportions right. Where are you sourcing the Buick engine? Are those the rear tires you're going to use? The rears look a little modern/small in comparison with the fronts. Seeing all these '30 coupes pop up (you, Dave, Lyle) now I'm starting to get the itch. Meanwhile, my poor roadster and '40 coupe aren't done yet. Isn't this hobby great?

Bernard: Thank you for the tip on paint! I took my anti-anxiety pills and went to Michaels this morning and found the exact paint you were speaking of, "Craft Smart". They do have an excellent selection and at only .59C a bottle if I hated it I could throw it away with no regrets. I ended getting a few shades and found that "Espresso" was the shade of brown I had in mind for the seat and side panels while "Golden Brown" was a great contrast for the floor. I tested them side by side on a piece of scrap of white plastic and held it up to the Maroon body and perfect! They do dry very flat, which is great for the "carpet" but could you please explain how to polish with tissue including the kind of tissue you use? Also do you think gray primer is the best base, or would white or red oxide be better? Geez, with any luck this poor car will be finished soon!

The colors I had in mind for the upholstery were a brown vinyl look for the seat and side panels and a light tan for the floor to give it some contrast. Thing is, I don't know where to find the right. I looked at everything the hobby shop has that I go to and didn't see anything I liked. All they had was glossy browns and tans. I need more of a semi-gloss for the brown and flat for the carpet. I'm gonna try out Michaels figuring they would have something. Any ideas? They'd be greatly appreciated!