Dennis Lacy

Fletch: This is a really neet project and not one I have seen done before? I hate that my brain works like this but I can't help it! The 1:1 truck you posted pictures of would be considered a "phantom". A real '32 RPU cab shares nothing in common with a passenger car cab except for the inner door handles. You may already be aware of this? I'm not trying to be hostile in any way, just pointing it out. The closed cab pickups and the roadster pickups used the same same gas tank under the seat, which doubled as the seat riser. The bottom seat cushoins were split 50/50 and removeable to access the filler cap under the passenger side. Both cushions are identicle and both have springs and padding attached to a square-shaped wood frame. The fuel tank has two raised square areas that fit into the center holes of the wooden cushion frames and hold them in place. I know this to be fact as I own a 1:1 '32 pickup and my Dad owned a real-deal 1:1 '32 roadster pickup for 25 years. If it were me I would leave the rear fenders alone and work them into the bed. One of the problems with the Lindberg '34 pickup kit is that the pickup rear fenders are too narrow to get a decent sized rear tire under. Also, '32 and '33-'34 pickup beds are dimensionally the same and even share the same front panel, framework and tailgate. The bed floor was the same except that in '33 and '34 there was a rectangular plate that could be removed to access the fuel line fitting at the fuel pickup in the top of the gas tank as the '33 and '34 had the tank was mounted under the bed. The difference in the bed sides lies in the beads to accomodate the different fender positions. The '32 pickup had a 106" wheelbase whereas the the '33-'34 had 112", so the fenders needed to be moved rearward in the latter two years.

Bernard, the paint is Tamiya Maroon TS11 over dark gray Duplicolor primer. I'm not exactly sure what the origin of the rear tires is. I forget where, but someone mentioned in a thread that they were in some AMT kits in the 60's. I found two sets, plus a slightly wider set with otherwise identical markings, in a stash of my Dad's old kits and parts. And thank you to everyone who has commented on this build. I appreciate all your compliments!

Well, my ‘29 Ford Roadster A-V8 is finally “under glass†and I am quite pleased with the results. Actually, I get a big goofy grin every time I look at it. It’s a weird feeling when a car project gets finished. After hours of work and imagining what it’s going be like, all of the sudden it’s done and you’re sitting there looking at it. The purpose of this build was to pay homage to my favorite era of Hot Rods, the immediate post-war of 1946-1948. Actually, I’m quite fanatical about this narrow window in the past, when hot rods were more than just a pretty face at a car show. These cars were often times the owners only mode of transportation and had to double as their race car on the weekends where they competed for top speed bragging rights on the dry-lake beds of Southern California. Within the next few years peoples priorities would change with the popularity of hot rod shows and magazine coverage. People started competing on an appearance level with fancy paint and lots of chrome, major racing interest shifted to drag racing and just like that the romance of the dry-lakes era was gone. Despite the 1:1 movement of the last 10 years (or so) toward traditional hot rods, many of them are over-done with all the gizmos and gadgets the builder can hang on them. However, back in the day this was rarely the case as the average hot rod owner couldn’t afford all those fancy race parts. Typically, the cars were simple in appearance and appointment with the emphasis on speed. So here is my “average†guys Roadster, a ‘29 Ford without fenders, a few tasteful (yet affordable) body upgrades like the ‘32 grill, custom 3-piece hood and chopped ‘n chromed windshield. A dropped axle with split wishbone, juice brakes and disc wheels fitted with ‘48 caps and all painted black for simple and affordable. A nicely “built†Flathead V8 with all the popular speed equipment and dual glass-pack exhaust. A nice tuck ‘n roll interior with a Stewart Warner instrument panel, ‘37 wheel and hot water heater for those cold days. Last but not least, a clean and simple Maroon paint job - not perfect, but not bad either. Build thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...t=0#entry155002

Well, happy I could help! And, if you need help on future projects my foot is always ready.

Dang Don, that's a great looking Vicky with lots of really sweet period details. Love the way you did the plug wires correctly for a '60s era SBC. I don't think I've ever seen that done on a model before. Just one question: Couldn't you have done better on the paint?

Wow, that turned out so awesome! The color is very nice and the stance is killer. NICE!

Hey Lyle, the conversion you did looks really good and I'm glad to see you going with full fenders. Is this one slated to be another traditional hot rod or more of a street rod?

Thanks for the nice words guys! Been working steadilly since yesterday morning to get this project wrapped and it's moving forward at a good pace and so far with no problems or surprises. I guess all that time fitting and fitting and fitting payed off. All that's left to do is make some upper radiator hoses, attach the hood sides, make a windshield "glass" and install the tail lights. I think I can handle it by tonight. Gonna try. Hopefully I'll have some finished pictures posted tomorrow night!

I say that's a nice improvement! Go with those.

I brush painted by default! I don't own an airbrush so I have no choice. This paint goes on well and with a good quality brush you don't really see any brush stroked. I found practicing before hand and on the actual parts that it's best not to try and get to much coverage to soon, rather be patient and build it up. It's kiind of like staining wood. The cool thing is the paint dries fast so if you have a handful of parts to do like I did, by the time you put a coat on the last one the first one is ready for another. I just kept going around until I was happy. I will also say primer is a must so it has something to grab. I made some swatches on bare, white plastic and it was a PIA.

No! I will not start another project until at least the roadster is done! Hahaha. But, luckilly this weekend is final assembly time so next week I might drag that '30 kit out. I've already been planning it in my head and have even played with it some. Thanks for the run down on the Buick engine options. The reason I asked is because I couldn't imagine you would use the one from the AMT '40 coupe / sedan delivery. Saying it's "soft" is being generous. I think it has it's place in a basic build up like those old AMT kits, but not in what you're doing. And I'm not anti-aftermarket but, if I can build it or make it I will! That Parts Box Buick is frickin' awesome tho. I've looked at their site a few times and I think at some point an order is, um, in order.

UPDATE 7-18-09 - INTERIOR FINISHED! I am happy to report that the interior components for this project are now done. (Yay!) Here is sample picture of the paint Bernard (GBK1) suggested and the two shades I used: I used Dupli-Color white primer then followed up with 8 layers of the above paint brushed on. By the 6th coat I had attained full coverage and followed with 2 more coats to richen it up. Using this paint requires a bit of patience but I think the end result is worth the effort. Here is a couple photos showing all of the finished interior pieces: To re-cap what I used: - Floor cut out of interior tub from Revell ‘37 Ford Pickup. The pedals also came from this kit. Shifter and handbrake handle from parts bin. - Side panels / kick panels from Revell ‘32 Ford Roadster. - Seat from AMT ‘32 Ford Phaeton. - Dashboard from Monogram ‘32 Ford Roadster. - Hot water heater box from Revell ‘50 Ford Pickup. - Steering wheel from Revell ‘37 Ford Pickup. I also finished the wheels by adding the hubcaps from Revell’s ‘48 Ford Convertible. I carefully flowed thinned black paint into the FORD letters on the caps. This will be the last update for this project because the next step is final assembly then onto the display case! I’m really excited to see it come together and will post finished pictures “Under Glass†as soon as I can. Thank you to all who have followed and commented on this project, it’s been a lot of fun!

Mike: I didn't mean to blow off your suggestion as it was a good one. Next time I'm at the hobby store I'll get some semi-gloss and flat clear coat for future use. Thanks! Shane: Thank you for the nice compliments. This project has been a bit of an undertaking for me - a person trying to get their skills back up to speed after such a long break - and I dove in head first with all the fabrication that's been required. Luckilly, I have a lot more patience and maturity now that has enabled me to work on my projects in a totally new light and have results that satisfy me.

Another cool build you have going, Bernard! I've always thought '30/'31 Ford coupes are one of the most versatile hot rod bodies ever made. You can do just about anything with them. Your chop and channel proportions look good and that sectioned radiator shell is a nice touch. Gotta do it to get those proportions right. Where are you sourcing the Buick engine? Are those the rear tires you're going to use? The rears look a little modern/small in comparison with the fronts. Seeing all these '30 coupes pop up (you, Dave, Lyle) now I'm starting to get the itch. Meanwhile, my poor roadster and '40 coupe aren't done yet. Isn't this hobby great?

Bernard: Thank you for the tip on paint! I took my anti-anxiety pills and went to Michaels this morning and found the exact paint you were speaking of, "Craft Smart". They do have an excellent selection and at only .59C a bottle if I hated it I could throw it away with no regrets. I ended getting a few shades and found that "Espresso" was the shade of brown I had in mind for the seat and side panels while "Golden Brown" was a great contrast for the floor. I tested them side by side on a piece of scrap of white plastic and held it up to the Maroon body and perfect! They do dry very flat, which is great for the "carpet" but could you please explain how to polish with tissue including the kind of tissue you use? Also do you think gray primer is the best base, or would white or red oxide be better? Geez, with any luck this poor car will be finished soon!

The colors I had in mind for the upholstery were a brown vinyl look for the seat and side panels and a light tan for the floor to give it some contrast. Thing is, I don't know where to find the right. I looked at everything the hobby shop has that I go to and didn't see anything I liked. All they had was glossy browns and tans. I need more of a semi-gloss for the brown and flat for the carpet. I'm gonna try out Michaels figuring they would have something. Any ideas? They'd be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE 7-5-09! I know it's been a while since I've posted any progress for this build and that's because, well, there hasn't been any. But, I finally found the time to paint the body and related parts. The color is Tamiya Maroon over Duplicolor gray sandable primer. The finish turned out decent, good enough that I'll be happy with the finished product. After all, this is only the 3rd model that I'm on my way to finishing after a 10 year break and only 2 of which I've shot shiney paint on. I think I'm gonna try using filler primer on the next paint job cause the sandable is sooo thin, it's doesn't help fill in anything. Anyways, here's some sneak peaks of the painted body including a loose (so don't hate on the hood gaps and allignment) mockup on the chassis. This was also my first time using BMF to do anything significant. It was a bit stressful, but the windshield turned out nice - on the first try too! Next up is to find some interior colors I like, spray the parts and final assembly.

Hey Mike, your A-bone is really comming together great! In the begining it had all the makings of one of those Kulture lifestyle rat rods, but in all it's painted glory all that goes away - and that's a good thing! Looking forward to seeing it finished. Awesome color combo, btw.

Hey Dave, thanks for the detailed info on the SD conversion. The proportions just looks spot-on, I can't get over it! Are you actually adding fuel injectors to that set-up? I have one of those '41 Woody kits with that engine and it just looks funny with the fuel rail hanging in the breeze. I'd think it would be real easy to whip out some Bosch-style injectors out of a couple diameters of tubing. As for Sedan #3: It's my opinion that it would look cool with the roof insert opened up but only if you could add the wood bows, maybe even some chicken wire... I would not move the axle in front of the grill on a suicide perch. I think the extra wheelbase would look too cartoon-ish (rat rod junk). If you want to get a little more concieved length out of it chop the top another scale inch. Will make it look lower and longer.

I have to admit I rarely look at threads about '60s and '70s cars cuz I'm not really into them, but was drawn in by the title. THIS is an AWESOME project. The engine and turbo set-up is very convincing. I know that those intercoolers exist because I've held one in my hand. The exhaust system came out great. The tails are positioned just right. I also think you should leave the rear wheels/tires tucked like they are, it's a little more discrete which goes with your low-key, home-built theme. Can't wait to see more!

Nice! I wouldn't have thought there was a kit of this car. Your build brings back memories of when my Dad bought one of those for my Mom brand new, only it was the turbocharged version called the "Turbo Z" and was dark red and silver tutone. Had a turbo 4cyl and 5spd manual. I think it took my Mom about a month to hate it so it was sold to one of my cousins. This must have been in '86 or '87.

Hey Dave, that Sedan Delivery is looking awesome! The pinstripe really sets it off. About the only thing I'd change is the whitewalls simply because I don't care for them. So, in addition to making the filler panels for the rear windows you also had to scribe the rear door line as well as add hinge detail and the drip rail. You did a killer job of it that's for sure! I'd swear you just used a resin body.

Hey Dave, awesome looking Tudor! It's amazing how a few simple, thought-out changes can have such an impact on that kit. You're so right about the supercharger, the detail on it is phenominal. Can't wait to see the other two sedans.

Converting an early Ford front end to 1/4 eliptic springs still requires the use of radius rods. The springs job is to dampen the impact of bumps and other road irregularities. The radius rods job is to locate the axle and allow it move up and down through an arch while controlling caster at the same time.