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Edward Gore

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Everything posted by Edward Gore

  1. Working on the hydraulic fittings and hose. I'm making them from insulated solid wire so the road wheel arms can articulate and the hose will have the flex needed. The wire is removed from the flexing part then the insulation is reinserted onto the ends of the wire which will represent fittings and glue into the cylinders. The hydraulic cylinders are mounted with what looks like a giant bolt and washer fastener so I went shopping for Scale Hardware. This will also allow articulation of the road wheel arms with a strong fastener.
  2. Road wheel assembly. these are the wheels that will drive on pavement off of the railroad. Dry fitting I discovered that the road wheel arms need to be extended further so the drive cones on the traction wheels will make contact like the 1/1 prototype. Traction wheels are slid outboard (rearward) during rail operation and the road wheels are raised up. Then if driving on the paved road the road wheels are lowered and the traction wheels slide inboard (forward) so the drive cones make contact with the rear road wheels to drive.
  3. @gotnitro? Yes, I'm pleased with the color as well. Sponge method sounds, well sound. May try that next time. Thanks for commenting.
  4. Window weather stripping painted on the driver cab. Painting the brakeman's cab today. I'm doing this before I glue the glass in place.
  5. This was the only way I could figure out how to build and paint the cabs. Paint the insides first then build the cab subassemblies. Then mask from the inside to protect what I've already done inside so I can paint the outside. I still need to glue in all the glass, cleanly as well ?
  6. Assembling the cabs. I'll mask the openings before painting the outsides.
  7. Very nice scratch build. I just figured out what the rims are made from ??
  8. Hi @Scott Eriksen, Thanks for checking in! I'm still in to 1/35 armored stuff when I'm not building static stand alone rolling stock, sci-fi, figures, oddball kit-mash ups, oh yeah or cars and trucks ? Recently there are a lot of 1/35 kits from Academy, Amusing Hobby, Border Models, Miniart, Meng.... with full interior including engines, transmission, drive train, and driver compartments. A little pricy for those not interested in the 1/35 scale range starting at $50USD and up. My favorite builds of those kits are when they make them exploded view display builds ??
  9. Thanks for the compliments. The dials and gauges are so tiny in 1/35 that I wanted to magnify them. Putting a sort of dome on each one did that I think. The weathering is actually accidental at this point in the build, Lol. Thank you for the compliment.
  10. Interior detail getting done. Kit decals installed upside-down, probably. They are so tiny. Creating gauge lenses with a drop of Kristal Klear.
  11. This model is based on the Trackmobile but is my own design using kits I already have in the stash. Trackmobiles I see online are usually yellow or orange so I want mine to have that sort of U.S. Forest Service green. Paasche, indeed it is!
  12. Added a pin wash of dark green to compliment details on the inside of the cabs. A little on the wheel hubs and seat mechanisms as well. Then masked and sprayed the drive cones ‘chrome’ to simulate polished wear. These will receive a pin wash of bronze and black later.
  13. Great problem solving. And excellent finding the splatter guard for the grille. Thanks for sharing all your detailed progress.
  14. @cifenet, Thanks again for checking in and for your comments. Base color on. I had to decant an old aerosol can of OSH Safety Green and use the AB. Thanks for looking...
  15. This subassembly now has a sort of, Alejandro "Burda" Burdisio, or Ian McQue, design going on here. Now prepped for primer.
  16. I misread the original post. I thought you were saying that your Picture of something (in this case your model), was being posted for sale by someone else on the internet. Then seeing your post of the, For Sale Ad. It's a scam ad for your diorama being for sale.
  17. More work on the cab interiors. Filling ejector pin marks. The driver’s cab has these as well but I don’t need to fill them all. One of the control panel parts covers most of it. I only need to fill one on this part, see arrow
  18. Worked on some interior cab detail. The assembly instruction sheets for the FUG are very thorough and clear but you have to study carefully. (G49) inserts into the slots and over lapse the front edge of (F6). Then the seat assembly is positioned by the front of part (G48) to the front edge of (F6). The seats assemblies are identical until the build gets to parts (G16), the seat adjustment knobs. Insert and glue one of them into the left side of one then into the right side of the other. Once this is done, the commander’s seat and the operator’s seat are established.
  19. Very nice finish. The front glass looks flawless with the replacement clear part. Your painting skills are off the hook!
  20. The hole was drilled for the air brake line which will be installed later. Gray primer first for repairs if needed. Yes, it needed ? sanding and filling. Then a coat of white to the front. Then vinyl tape masking for the caution lines. This was sprayed with flat black from an aerosol can.
  21. Went back into the spare parts box to find material to make the front and rear 'Pilot' parts. See reference photo... Then the brackets were made from more parts from the spares box... A template was made then this shape was scribed onto the parts then cut to shape. Then the brackets were shaped to fit around the detail of the traction wheel parts... I'll glue these onto the model after painting.
  22. Nice finish. What color did you paint it?
  23. ^ (s) = Drive shaft that was shortened to fit this model was found in the spare parts box. (a) = additional length of plastic tube glued to the end of the rear drive shaft part to enable the traction wheel differential to slide forward and rearward. ^ ^ (a) = Inserts into rear traction diff. (t) = Transfer case from the FUG kit. ^
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