Edward Gore

Finally finished the Hyundai Azera (with Grandeur grille though). It represents an imported vehicle into North America at port of entry status. Basically still in customs. Finished pictures in Under Glass: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/125139-hyundai-azera-at-port-of-entry-customs-124-scale/ Thanks for looking in and for all the comments!

Finally finished the Hyundai Azera (with Grandeur grille though). It represents an imported vehicle into North America at port of entry status. Basically still in customs. Blog in On The Workbench: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/117191-academy-hyundai-grandeur-hgazera-off-the-ship/ 1/1 scale Port pictures: http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/hyundai-motor-co-vehicles-bound-for-export-await-shipment-at-a-port-picture-id481624108 http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/hyundai-motor-co-vehicles-bound-for-export-await-shipment-at-a-port-picture-id464564347 http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/hyundai-motor-co-vehicles-bound-for-export-are-driven-at-a-port-near-picture-id464569407 http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/workers-inspect-hyundai-motor-co-vehicles-bound-for-export-at-a-port-picture-id481624094 https://automotivelogistics.media/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/1.-Port-of-Ulsan.jpg

wanna see ?

deleted see next post...

I've done a little more on this during the week. The posts for the side, rear view mirrors are not included in the kit so I made them from wire as suggested in the kit's I-sheets. The base color is MM1714 (FS-34127) Forest Green, shot through my AB. After I made a new swatch that color just looked the best.

Spectacular paint on this one, man. I also built this but with Pegasus low rider wheels set and posed hydraulic 3-wheel motion. A fun kit

Nice! Please ask your daughter to make more models and post them here.

This is awesome. Great design!

Cool subject project. Figures are something I need to improve on so I'm watching this.

I'm starting to paint color today and have a question regarding the spare wheel. What color would the steel wheel part be? Body color green or gloss black or ? http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_05_of_12.jpg Thanks in advance

You had me at Thrashed but then I read it again and it said trashed. Still watching this one.

This is going to be good.

The rear bumper is assembled and ready for primer. A few things are not clearly illustrated in the assembly instructions but were pretty easy to adapt and figure out. (PE-15) is the trailer power supply receptacle cover. The assembly instructions does not describe this part. I saw it on ref pictures on the internet so I wanted to include it on my model. It would look too flat if I just glued it into position on the bumper so I adapted the receptacle part. First, I found a piece of guitar string (from my brother's guitar). It was just about the right thickness for the spring loaded hinge. The receptacle was a stack of 3 (PE-6) parts that is for the M1009 kit. (The same PE set is included in both the M1008 and M1009 kits) Then I glued (PE-15) on top. It looks about right now. . . Rear bumper assembly is complete with exception to the tow shackles. I glued four rivets from a Meng set. Two on each end. . Thanks for looking...

Yes, very helpful mod tip. Thanks for the SBS.

This is the tail pipe after primer. It already has a hollow end for realism. I don't need to drill it out

Nice jig, I would have never thought of using that. Those wheels look like paint rollers right now.

ok, thanks, Dave

Is this still on or cancelled? I'm getting mixed messages over here.

The glass is in the body part and ready to assemble the top and lower half. http://imgur.com/a/FFIYI

The suspension parts, axles, and transmission parts are glued into position. The 4 struts (part #8) seem to be for the M1009 in the assembly instructions since MmF makes both kits. The CUCV technical manual that Mustang1989 provided a link show the positions a little different specifically for the M1008. Now it's ready for primer. The longer drive shaft and exhaust pipe will be painted separately then glued on later after assembly of the bed and cab.

Outstanding scratch building and thanks for sharing your technique and method with us. Very helpful in learning how to do this.

Removal of material with a sharp knife one section at a time. Even with a sharp knife there is a rough stand out material left behind. After all quadrants were cut out, the flat side (front) was carefully sanded with a sanding stick, for nails, of approx. 1000 grit. Those blocks are outer attachment points to the front bumper. The brush guard dry set on top of the front bumper part. The final position will be a little more forward on the bumper. . . The brush guard is glued to the front bumper but just dry fit onto the front clip. I'll glue it on after all painting is done. Noted above is that I shaved off the lower end mounts that were suppose to be left on to help position it correctly onto the front bumper. To correct this, I scratch built a couple mounts that look a little more accurate to the real thing. I used PE-13 from the PE set included with the kit. I wasn't going to use this part because it was for rear bench seats in the truck bed. Since I wasn't going to install these bench seats in my model, I wasn't going to install the 3 brackets along the top ridge of the bed sides. I cut two 3mm lengths from PE-13 and used the fold to make the bracket mounts. They worked out perfectly. Then the 8 rivet heads were sliced from MENG's set and glued into position referenced on-line. It looks like it's wearing glasses now

Grille part glued in with the broken corner piece in place. The angles of the grille part and the front clip of the cab part were different angles so it created a gap at each end. I filled this gap around the grille part with Zap-a Gap, medium CA. After a light coat of primer to check things out, it all looks fine. I also scraped material off the back (pour block) of the grille part so the floor part will install correctly later. Approx. 1mm was removed. . Something else I notice is that the angles of the front clip are different than the grille part leaving gaps on each end. . I filled the gap around the grille part with Zap-A-Gap medium CA and I think it looks fine in 1/35. . Thanks for looking...

<---- Total resin kit amateur! . The grille part is one piece with pour block out back. This didn't fit into the front of the cab grille opening so I thought I'd sand down the pour block part of it so it would fit. Bad idea because the front detail and frame garnish is so fragile it aint even funny. The frame garnish broke off in the lower left corner but luckily I found it. In hind sight, the best thing to do is to remove material from the cab part to open the cavity to accept the grille part. ^ Remove material from the cavity instead. . ^ I broke off this little corner part during sanding of the grille part .

Yes, very clean, crisp casts. The UAZ-452 is my next purchase. what cool vehicle.