Force
-
Content Count
3,697 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Posts posted by Force
-
-
The same Cummins 475 engine is in all of the Revell Germany Peterbilt 353/359, Kenworth K100 and T600 kits, and the very wrong Marmon kit.
The original Stepp's Can-Do wrecker the kit is based on is a short hood 379 119 bbc and had a Cat 3406 enigne and the model is a 359 127 bbc with the Cummins 475, but the rest is correct for the first version of the Can-Do as the truck has been re-done since the model kit was made.
Some say the original Can-Do truck is a 378 and not a 379, but according to the Peterbilt guru Tim Ahlborn's site the 378-119 has a one piece fiberglass hood and the 379-119 has an aluminum hood riveted together and you can see a parting line with rivets near the top of the hood on the 379 wich the 378 don't have, this aluminum hood is on the real Can-Do as you can clearly see the the parting line and rivets on some of the pictures of it. -
Most Chevy small block generation 1 engines all are based on the same design and looks basically the same externally, you can't tell them apart just by looking at them...especially in model form.
If you use a 283, 327 or 350 doesn't matter if you have the correct attributes like air cleaner, valve covers and other stuff so you can call it whatever you like.
Of course there are differences but most of them are internal and not visible from the outside and the most noticable are the cartrige oil filter and front engine mounts used on early small blocks vs the spin on filter and side engine mounts on the later ones, the valve cover bolts also has different spacing on early and late small blocks. -
Ehhh...NO.
But I like Cobras and Elvis so I will follow this. -
"Grumpy" Jenkins raced Novas, Camaros, Monzas and Vegas and 55 Chevy, and a most certainly a few others.
-
On 5/23/2021 at 10:31 PM, jas1957 said:
The 221,260,289,302 & 351 W were all externally the same basic engine. Different bores & stroke to give the different displacement.
The 221-302 are but not the 351W, it's closely related and the 351W has the same 4.00 inch bore as the 289 and 302, but the 351W has longer stroke at 3.50 inches and the deck hight is 1.30 inches taller for that to work, so the 351W is both taller and wider than the others, there are also other differences but that's the most noticable externally.
-
This is not just a problem for the AMT kit, I don't like the later Revell metal wheel attachment pins either, the front suspensions on these later kits are designed very simplified and bulky (like 3 parts total) just for this pin system to work because if it was like before the metal pins it wouldn't be enough material and it would break when you try to push the pins in.
I like the snap on system they used before this metal pin system better where the front suspensions was nicer crispier castings with more parts (5-8 parts ) and looked more true to the real cars, and as I don't like my models to roll because they are static models and not toys I usually file up the hole in the wheel back so the wheel fit snuggly without any pressure and glue them in place. -
Issue 208 was in my mailbox here in Sweden yesterday.
-
I got mine yesterday and it looks awsome, very nice and crisp castings.
-
Good work on this one, looks very realistic.
-
-
-
Nice copy of Aulis Hämeenkorpi's 32 Coupe, I have seen his car a couple of times.
-
As the 221, 260, 289 and 302 basically is the same engine with different bore/stroke so you can use either with some small changes, the early ones have the oil filler tube on the timing chain cover and pre-1965 they have a generator, you also need the right looking valve covers and air cleaner and if you want to have power steering you need to add an Eaton pump used on all early Ford engines.
I see the Trumpeter Falcon was mentioned but that engine is not very good as it's kind of large, bulky and crude...the 221-302 Ford is a tiny engine and the Trumpeter version looks way too large. -
I have been to the NHRA Museum several times...I believe it's 5 or 6 so far and last time was November 2018...and I have seen the models there.
Together with the old race cars this display is well worth a visit and I have met legends like the late Tom "The Mongoo$e" McEven and TV Tommy Ivo there at different times.
If you time it when they have their Twilight Cruise car show first wednesday each month outside the Museum, when the pandemic restrictions are lifted, you have much to see and the admission to the Museum is free. -
Looks nice.
-
You are improving with every build Michelle, good work.
-
It's coming together nice Dan, I really like it.
-
No, the model companies did 1933, 34 and 36 kits and skipped the 1935 model year.
But the 1935 is more like the 36 than the 34 and I've heard of people changing the hood and grille on 35's with 36 pieces. -
The best looking Centerline Convo Pro wheels can be found in the Revell Pro Sportsman 55 Jukebox Ford, 57 Soff Seal Chevy and 58 Christine Plymouth...the Charles Carpenter 55 Chevy had Boyds wheels, the 57 Chevy and the 55 Chevy has also been reissued with generic decals some time ago.
Revell modified the Weld Pro Star wheels in the Funny Car kits to something that was supposed to look like Convo Pro's, but they are not that good as they look like a weird combination of these wheels and I belive the rear ones are in the pictures above. -
You can see the truck and trailer buildup here.
-
Nice weathering.
-
The Revell 67 Coupe is nice.
I don't think the MPC Corvette C2's are that bad, the chassis is a lot better and more detailed than what's in the AMT 63 kits and will most likely work just fine under it if you want to do a more detailed 63 Corvette. -
2 hours ago, Zippi said:
Tom the seem is noticeable on the bottom as well just not as bad. Lesson learned fellows. Still in the learning mode.
I usually put a sand paper on a flat surface like a piece of glass, a table top or something like that and take the engine block halves and cut off the locating pins as they are not needed, sand the edges on the parts until they are flat, put some tube glue on the edges and let the glue set for a short while so the plastic will melt slightly, put the parts together and adjust until it looks good and press the parts together and hold with a clamp or something until the glue dries, it doesn't matter if there are excessive glue and plastic around the edges as that's kind of the meaning with this procedure, so leave it for now, after it dried I brush the seam with a thin bottle glue wich solves both the tube glue and plastic slightly and let it dry, sand the seam and it will be unvisible...and no putty needed.
This is a trick I learned many many years ago for two piece parts that don't should have a visible seam and I allways do it like that, so it will work on gear boxes, rear axles and things like that. -
The later body also have the chrome trim around the edge of the rear panel missing on the first issues of the Bel Air.
can-do wrecker
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Well the real Can-Do is a short hood 379 119" bbc and the thing I refered to from Tim's website is how you can tell the difference between a 378 119" and a 379 119".
The Italeri kit issued by AMT recently is a 378 and the hood can be modified to look like a 379 aluminum hood with some work.
http://www.timstrucks.com/PB4.html