VW Dave

I'm a little late to the thread, but I wanted to chime in: Happy birthday, Tom. Many happy returns my friend.

Even though we only went for part of Saturday, I managed to squeeze off just shy of 400 pics....needless to say there's a lot to see, and IMO 'something for everybody.' This hammered Deuce and A coupe were among my favorites at the whole show: And here's the link to the whole album. Thanks for looking! GOODGUYS EAST COAST ROD & CUSTOM NATS

I'm a sucker for E-body Mopars and hockeystick stripes from the get-go, and I'd also like to concur it looks the business in blue. Very cool Cuda!

I voted 'real,' and I've gotta say it's real ugly.

Dave - Thanks for the kind words on the Charger....that shot-up and crispy 5-window looks like something I'd love to drag home from the woods. I love it!! Sounds like the same stuff. Make sure you shake the base paint very well before using it, to ensure a good amount of iron is stirred up. I have found that you can achieve a subtle surface rust(or 'patina' to us artsy folks ) by pouring a small amount out on a plastic plate or coffee can lid and drybrushing it with a 1" foam brush. After it's throroughly antiqued, a light dry sanding with 700 or finer paper can also soften the finish a bit. I played a little with subtlety on the Charger's front fenders:

I started building at age 7 or so, and didn't have so many folks(outside of my family) to share my work with; those were the pre-internet days. Brendan's off to a great start, and I'm really looking forward to seeing more from him.

I've heard of those copycat claims before, and it's hard to contest them especially when you see the 1937 VW30 prototype: The same thing has been going on for ages, and it shows no sign of stopping - like the recent Ford 500 sedan, with a roofline I mistook for a VW Passat or an Audi A6 in a parking lot:

I'm pretty sure the 'rust antiquing set' is a different product than the one I use; I'm interested to see how it works for you, and the results.

I had a feeling that truck looked familiar....I saw it at Carlisle a couple years ago, hauling a Hemi-somethingoranother in the corral area. If my life depended on it I couldn't tell you what the car on the back was, but I remember the truck.

"We're not hosting an intergalacitc kegger." Seriously, nice stuff....I've got to come up with a project that could use one of those tanks now.

Took the words right outta my mouse. Lookin good, Tito.

Both of our local stores have it near the textured paints & faux finishes, nowhere near the models or model paints....look again just to play it safe. Our store has it in hanging boxes(like in the truck pic I posted), and also slightly larger individual bottles. If you really strike out at your local store, lemme know by email and I can pick it up and send it to you for whatever it costs me.

Thanks very much for the kudos, Harry.....I like to say that living in the northeast(the 'buckle of the rust belt') offers me a lot of reference material.

I agree with James on the Dremel and X-Acto tip; that ball-shaped milling bit is the ticket for making convincing 'rust through' damage. For surface and spotty rust on my Charger, I used a combination of chalk pastels, drybrushed paints(various rusty & grimy colors), and a product called 'Instant Rust' by Modern Options/Sophisticated Finishes: I've also used it for the all-over surface rust look: Michaels craft stores sells the two-part set, which consists of a base paint that contains fine metal filings, and the top coat that accelerates the rust.......it goes on like paint, but it is real rust. With a little practice, I've found a few new ways to apply the stuff as well.

Happy 32nd, brother Tito - and many happy returns.

I've been to that show in the past, and it was a good time....if it isn't too spendy to go, I'll do my best to make it. Please bump this thread as the date draws near.

I voted 'real' this time

Definite head-scratcher this time around.....I had to say 'real' for some reason.

No real idea here, so I'm guessing 'model.'

Looking good so far, Eric! I'm pretty sure you can easily touch up the smudged 'HEMI' lettering with a fine-point black ink pen, like a Micron 005 or even an ultra-fine black Sharpie.

Both the styrene and solder are good ideas, but the aluminum rod I suggested is lighter than solder(less weight & stress on the finished model IMO)

I voted 'real,' and I agree that replies should not include dead giveaway info.

As Friday crept closer I had a sneaky feeling that I guessed wrong.....was I at least correct on the builder's identity?

Very nice job! I never liked those Pegasus CL's until now....the muted finish makes them a much nicer wheel.

As a big fan of rusty models, I'm curious....if anyone does find it, I'd love to see a full review/tutorial and clear pics of the results. For now I'm happy with my Modern Options/Sophisticated Finishes rust, but a new product is always a good thing: