Alyn

Here's the visor in place with the body ready for final paint. I almost think there's too many holes in the visor, but all in all, it turned out as expected. The visor was pre-painted on the underside and top so I don't have to concentrate on those areas during the final painting. Then the top surface was sanded smooth. This will help minimize the tendency of paint to build up around the edges of the holes. The bench seat is shot with Krylon burgundy. The color is reminiscent of an inexpensive Naugahyde that you might see on a budget build in someones garage.

Thanks, Dave. Yeah, those hinges are just plain too small to hang on to. It's difficult to hold something that small without gluing it to your finger. As far as alignment, once I got the hinges into the slot on the body, all but one fell into position pretty well. The fourth one, I thought the glue was going to set before I could get it aligned. Now that they're in place, the only problem is the drivers door doesn't quite close flush with the body and the passenger side wants to keep swinging open. All in all, I still like them and I'm sure the next one I do will be hinged as well.

Thanks, guys, I'm really glad I built the flatty. They just ooze retro. Dave, the doors & tailgate will open. It's tough enough opening up doors on kits that don't have them. The work's already done on this one, so I'll be taking advantage. Nice looking roadster, Mike. I really like that light green metallic. especially with those wheels and tires. I hate to waste parts, so I'll probably find a way to build the roadster body on mine too. This kit comes with a visor over the windshield, but I wanted to have to look of the drilled visor and with plastic the thickness is too apparent. I built one out of brass to take advantage of the thinner material. Shape wise, it's about the same as the kit version. The doors had a bunch of pin marks that had to be cleaned up. It would have been nice to just build inner door panels, but with the stock seat, the thicker doors wouldn't close. I just cleaned them up and painted 'em. The underside of the roof is molded to look like wood, so several shades of brown and tan Tamiya acryllics were used to duplicate a wood look. The cross beams are covered in standard masking tape and trimmed like BMF to look like pine bows. The inside of the body and the visor were painted ahead of time to make the final painting a little easier. They won't be masked off at paint time, but since they'll already have a few coats of yellow, I can focus on getting the main parts of the body looking good.

Here's the truck; Revell's 29 Ford pickup 3-in-1 kit. The bed has been shortened about a scale foot. That's about the only custom mod in the plans. Other than the switch from the four banger to the flathead V8 and a few detail changes, it'll be pretty much per the instructions. I haven't built anything in yellow yet, so that's the plan for this one.

Some of you may remember this flathead V8 from my 29 Ford roadster build. That build is set aside while this 29 Ford pickup takes shape. I don't know why I switched gears and started building the truck instead of the roadster. I was digging through the box looking for parts, mocked up the body parts for fun and the next thing you know, I'm building a truck. Anyway, the flathead is changing homes and going in the truck. The roadster will have to get another one.

Well, it looks like your turn to take possession of the "Originality" travelling trophy. Plan on dusting it every few months cause it'll be a while before someone can top this idea. Great looking rod. I have to say though, that I like it better without the squirrel nose. If it were mine, I'd be building a second front end for it and swap them back and forth as the situation dictates. And once again, that roof line is to die for. Great job.

Hey, the tank turned out fantastic. The metallic finish you put on it is very nice.

Bill, along with everyone else, I applaud you for offering your time and knowledge in putting this thread together. The descriptive text is nicely detailed and your photos show the steps in excellent clarity. Your demeanor appears to be a perfect match to the task

Skull or no skull, that body profile is killer. Very nice work on transforming the soft top into the end result.

Yeh, leaving the holes in the doors with no handles is a nice touch, as is the fogging of the glass. That old glass tends to do that. [broken record]Your weathering techniques are very impressive[/broken record], but with that much of a rust patina I'd expect a few small dents here and there. But that's nit pick'n. She's one nice looking car. I have to say though, if you posted these updates in real time, your speed is more impressive than the weathering!

That pic with the air cleaner in pieces is priceless! Nice work

might as well quit right now. I think you've captured the look Tub work looks good to. I'd swear you must have some teletubbys working for ya.

That 3/4 rear shot could not look any better. You be stylin' The way it's low and hunkered down, it kinda looks like it could take to a slalom course like peanut butter to a piece of bread. Bring on the paint!

I'd say ya got some great ideas cooking there. The truck looks cool overall, and the gas tank idea is great. It would be a shame though, to drop it into the bed where you won't be able to see the skulls. Maybe a short flatbed with no sides would show it off better. The only thing I'd change is the carb. Looks like you've got a dominator on that skinny little six. Trying to get that much air through a stock manifold to a 4 litre engine will be like stuffing 10 pounds of cookies into a 2 pound bag! Nice truck, though. Looks like you're making great progress.

the other pic (gotta touch up that belt!)

Tried to post two pictures of the engine, but I FAILED! So, here's the one that worked. I added the rear cross member to the frame and primed it and set it aside. Then I got busy on some more engine detail. Some 26 gauge wire was used for throttle shafts with flattened 26 gauge used for the linkage arms. Then silvered 28 gauge was used for the link between the arms. I also wound my own throttle return springs using silvered 34 gauge wire. Fishing line with 3/64" brass tube used for fittings, 3/32" aluminum tube used for carb stacks. The insides are painted red with brass inside the base to simulate butterfly's. The red was more visible in the other pic. I'll try to upload it tomorrow if I get a chance.

I did see your Chevy and was impressed with the paint job. Especially considering you did it with a brush. I assume you sand and polish this type of paint job to complete it. In the picture, there is a small brush leaning on the red paint can. Is that the brush you use? It is very small! Smaller than I would have expected. Do you paint by brush because you like the challenge and the satisfaction of mastering a difficult task, or is it out of necessity? I would like to try this technique someday for the challenge. cheers

I was fascinated by this car back in February. Sure glad it's popped back up. It's just a fantastic little car; beautiful in it's simplicity. I really like the numerous metal finishes and clean breaks between colors and finishes on the various detail parts. The Offy is way cool too. I hope you go for it on the flames. I wanted to do that on my Bonneville roadster, but in the end chickened out.

I remember this one since it was one of the first "stand out" builds that I saw when first visiting MCM. Top notch design and workmanship. The color suits it well too. It'll be a tough one to beat when it gets down to the voting for the AMBMR competition.

"But the setback on this one really compounds the problem. It's why it'll be a while before I get the body back on. That firewall will take some work..." I hear ya; every time you change something, you find out it forces you to change something else, and that forces you to change something else, and ...

Nice engineering on the frame, Bernard. I always enjoy scratch building frames. Look like you might too. It's amazing how big that 6 looks when mounted in place. There's quite a following for the GMC 6's with the land speed crowd. Hope to see the body and motor mated up in the near future.

gotta love these sedan bodies. Your's is looking good with those wheels. They're scream'n for big block power. BBC or Red Ram would set well.

Your Mustang looks really nice. It looks nice with either of the three wheels, but for that matter would probably look nice with just about any wheel. It's just that nice looking. I'd go with the original mock-up wheels, though. Nice Power Tour look with those wheels and stance.

Hitting my stride; maybe, but my steps are short. I'm not a very fast builder. Here's the current status of the frame. I used brass to get the look I wanted on the holes. With no other reasons to use brass, the frame will end up as a brass/plastic hybrid with the cross members at each end coming from the plastic 29 frame. To get a reasonably strong joint, pins were superglued into each side of the front cross member. Then the pins were inserted into the ends of the rails using epoxy to secure the parts together. The cross member, with drive shaft safety hoop was also made from brass. The reason for this is that I felt it would be stronger to solder this part in place rather than using glue or epoxy. The rear cross member, which I am still working on will also be from the plastic 29 frame and will include a Z'd kick up in the rails. Here's a mock-up showing how the body and frame will mate up. You can also see how nicely the tapered frame rails flow into the curve of the plastic frame horns. Here's the front section pretty much done. I used a bit of red glazing putting to clean up the seam between the brass and plastic. Still to come will be front spring hanger, motor mounts and radius arm mounts. Thanks for following along

Ok, I'm gonna google ""It'll Be Black For Sure After You Dip It In This Stuff For A While..." and see if I can find some on the internet. Thanks, Marcos, happy to see your interest. I've been working on some frame rails tonight. I don't have much yet, but they're starting to show some promise. I cut a slot in the end of each rail and the used solder to close them back up again. Most of the solder was filed off leaving just enough to hold the shape. Then a row of .080" holes were drilled with the Dremel on the section of the rail that will be visible ahead of the firewall. That should be a 2" hole in scale. I used rectangular brass tube so the walls of the frame rail would be apparent once the holes were drilled. The wall thickness is .012 or roughly 1/4" in scale which is reasonable thickness for frame material. The frame was going to be painted basic black, but I think I may have to change to a brighter color to show off the holes.