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awesome, too bad there isnt a way to make a scale backfire. although some pulled cotton coming out of the muffler might give you the effect without the sound. good luck with your build, uncle buck is one of my favorite john candy movies, then again all john candy movies are my favorite john candy movies.

there are how to articles on chopping, but keep in mind that no two cars chop the same, so what works for one will probably not work for another. its definitely an art, and will take practice to master. sectioning is taking scale inches out of the side of the body to reduce the over all height, if you go to my 32' thread in the big boys section i have pictures of a sectioning in progress towards the end of the first page.

As far as i know, the gluing everyday objects together aspect of super glue wasnt its intended purpose. it was originally invented to seal cuts and wounds on the battlefield.

Its called engine turning, and in the 1:1 world it is achieved by using a drill press with basically a sanding disc attached to it. Ive never personally worked with BMF before, so im not sure what kind of abuse it can take before it tears, but the basic process would be the same. instead of using a drill press however you would have to find a scale alternative of some sort.

i like medical tape personally, it has a nice texture to it and can be dirtied up easily.

my only experience with the new mustang is one i rented on business while in alabama. i dont know if the automatic transmission and rental car upholstery had anything to do with it, but it was one of the biggest turds ive ever driven. slow to go and not very responsive.

well, ive finished sectioning the drivers door and have started a mock up of my windscreen. the windscreen is styrene for now, but the plan is the construct the posts out of some angle aluminum or thin sheet steel.

that is awesome old hermit. love the engine and floor board, great looking build.

nope, toyota 2000 gt similar in styling though

as i sat at my bench last night i noticed that the body looked a little tall compared to the seat and windshield height, so two scale inches came out of the sides. i still need to chop the doors down and fix the rear pan but i must say im much happier with the look now.

well not exactly since cat 5/6 cable still has to be run from the servers to the wireless devices. only thing that stinks about cat 5/6 wire is youre limited to blue, orange, green and brown. if you have access to telecommunications cable i would try finding some 25 or 50 pair cable. it will get you white, red, black, yellow and violet. plus combos of those colors mixed with your basic blue, orange, green and brown.

have an old playstation controller laying around? dog chewed mine up so i cut the cord off and stripped it plug wires galore! plus some threaded line and some stranded metal rip line. after all is said and done you net about 6' of each color wire, more than enough to wire quite a few models.

awesome, thank you so much again old hermit.

thanks for the tip old hermit. the only reason i did it the way i did is because i wanted to keep it looking like an extremely heavy channel on a stock frame, my Z is right on the floorboard kick so it gets hidden by the body.

well ive done a bit of weathering to the engine, and have decided to change out the spark plug wires for a black or yellow set, but realized after i cut the red set that i can no longer find my instructions to tell me which wire goes where in the distributor, awesome. can anyone guide me in the right direction, ive searched the net to no avail.

well ive made a tiny bit of progress. ive finished all the filler panels for the channel job, and ive roughed in threaded body mounts to the frame so the body can be removed if need be, just need to figure out a way to clean their appearance up a bit. next task is to box the rails in and figure out how to fit a gas tank and radiator in the trunk area.

thanks, work has been super busy lately so i havent had much modeling time. however, i see slow times a coming soon. not good for my pocket book, but awesome for my hobby time, ha.

well, i got most of the tunnel done last night and a brace for the rear of the floor board...

that is awesome, the whole thing looks great, but im especially digging the interior shot.

geez, work has been kicking my butt lately. got a free hour earlier today to start a new floor board. hopefully i can make as much progress as possible tonite, here's where i stand now. i need to add the tunnel and filler pieces for the channel... sorry about the picture quality, the old lady did a number on my camera.

thanks for making my day old hermit! and on that note, im starting a rebuild of the floor board tonite. i just wasnt happy with the fit and finish of my channeled kit piece, so time to build something better...

not new but current projects in various stages of completion, i have a hard time devoting all my time to one... 1:8 32' roadster... 1:12 57' chevy... 1:16 31' sedan delivery turned drag car...

Evercoat is a far more superior product than bondo brand filler hands down. less pinholes, easier to spread, easier to sand etc. for the few dollars in price difference its well worth it. also, im not sure how the two body halves are held together but you might want to put a jb weld type product on the underside of the seam so that the body filler isnt the only thing holding the two pieces together if thats the case. looks great so far, id really like to pick one of these up now.

i dropped by the booth on saturday while drooling over the 1:1s and can honestly say that i dont remember seeing that many builds did more show up on sunday or am i just losing it?

thanks. yeah definitely an average joe type of dragster, similar to the belly tank salt racers. the big john kit is by far way more expensive than this one, think i paid 14 for this at my local shop.