shucky

Not sure what these guys are talking about. I've added most of my vent / pour holes after the molds cured. HSII mold rubber (which I use) is VERY soft and pliable and can be sliced very finely with a new Xacto or razor blade. I've not ever screwed up a mold adding pour and vent holes. In the Alumilite DVD they outline adding pour/vent holes and its after the molds cured. However, there are no set rules to resin casting and its kind of up to you to do what works best in your application(s).

Yep, what everyone else said. Just an amazing piece of art and truly inspirational. Thanks for sharing this with us!

Amazing!

Hi all, just wanted to post an *update* on the resin centrifugal superchargers I have planned for release. The master is 100% scratch built by me using various styrene bits. I was able to get the master in rubber as well as some pulleys and have gotten my first pull from the mold. I'm still tweaking a few things so these are not ready (YET) but will be very shortly. There will probably be 3 choices of pulley (street, cogged street/drag, and cogged drag) and also 2 different rubber belts (smooth & cogged) available. Still finalizing pulley designs and belts but these should be wrapped up soon and ready for ordering. I'll update this thread when they are *officially* available. Here are some preliminary pics of the first pull. Sorry for the poor pics also, my camera would not cooperate with me tonight

Awesome job (as usual ) so far! Paint detailing is fabulous.

Thanks, I certainly can read. But, what part of "there isn't any information on revell.com or gearz" dont you understand? Sure there is info in the link as well as an eligible kit list but the websites that we are kept being told to check for information have zero of it. Make sense now? Sorry, but I dislike advertising that instructs people to look elsewhere only to find nothing. Okie dokie then.

Oldman, do you have any pics of your Wild Child projects? I'd sure love to see 'em.

Same here. Nice reference material!

This was discussed before. There is no info on Revell.com? And when I checked last gearz website had no info.

Wayne, I always watch out for your builds and follow along and I have to say this build is one of my favorites. Really awesome man!

What Dave said I was a little taken back when I first seen your build up post with Hello Kitty and Viper in the same sentence. BUT, you pulled it off and the result is pretty cool I have to say. The paint looks fabulous and its subtle enough that it still looks the "business." Awesome job man!

Bob, nice job on the tut! Great result. Thanks!

Virgil said it exactly as I was going to. Awesome job Chuck!

My friend sent this over to me. Its the real deal 65 Ford Falcon "Wild Child" FX drag car. AWESOME. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Falcon-WILD-CHILD-WILD-CHILD-Rankin-Ford-s-1965-A-FX-FALCON-HOTROD-/230550488224?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35ade144a0#v4-39

Felix, looks really clean. Nice job!

Jim (Moparman), just as Dave mentioned the brackets would need to be application specific. I thought about making brackets but they would just be trimmed and hacked too much based on each individual application. Its best this piece is made from sheet styrene to fit whatever application your working with. Plus styrene is easier to work with (trim, etc) than a resin piece would be. Thanks guys for the comments and interest, it means a lot. Stay tuned for updates

All, just FYI for those who were watching this thread for updates on the superchargers ... I just posted pics in the "work in progress" section of my finished master. I will be working on getting this in rubber shortly and there will be an official announcement made here in the resin section when they are available. Thanks guys for your patience! Really appreciate it and your interest.

Hi folks, I just finished up a scratch built "Procharger" supercharger. I wanted to do a centrifugal supercharger since building the turbo's, I thought they were lonely and needed a belt driven friend I used reference photos of a "Procharger" brand s/c as I liked its overall appearance better than the others and thought it would translate well in scale. The unit halves and pulley are just mocked up using white glue for now. Still thinking about pulleys and so far came up with 1 larger "drag" cogged pulley and one smaller "street" pulley. Each pulley has the center pre-tapped for a mounting bolt. Next step is getting this thing in rubber and pouring some resin. More than likely I will offer the charger with choice of pulley and also real rubber belt material (both cogged and reg.) Not sure if I will build a "smaller" version of this, will have to see what interest is like. An official announcement will be made in the resin section once molds are made and I'm ready to pour. I know some of you have been waiting for this, so thank you for your patience and hope you like what I came up with. Further, once units are poured I will take one and do a tutorial here on the forums on building up a detailed unit from start to finish.

WOW if thats not some of the smoothest most beautiful paint I've ever seen! Looking fantastic! Great job so far.

Agree with everyone else, what an amazing build! The body is particularly awesome. Super job on this and cant wait to see what you come up with next. Please keep posting.

Ian, supercharger is in the works (2 sizes) but no sneak peek here Michelle, as Mr. Dave (Double D) suggested, for the turbo (intercooler) piping use larger diameter solder. It is MUCH easier to work with, cut, and bend then aluminum tubing. It polishes up just as nice (or better) also using an old T shirt. For hose couplings (connections between piping) use aluminum tubing painted to your color choice that is sized to slip over the solder piping. A few tips on solder: Roll out few inch sections (like bread dough LOL) on a wooden cutting board. This straightens it out. From there you can form your bends with your fingers. Careful bending can yield smooth bends w/out any crimping. If you have a difficult bend your working with, say a bend that needs to be at the end of the piping, it may be too hard to bend just the tip of the solder with your fingers. Make your bend more towards the center of the solder and trim the excess off after the bend. You can roll straight sections of solder under a new xacto blade on a cutting board to flat cut it. Or, if you need to trim a curved or bent piece of solder, snip it with some cutters and then use a metal file to sand the cut edge flat/clean again. Doing this helps your intercooler piping slip easily in and out of your aluminum tubing hose connections for test fitting/assembly. Remember intercooler piping is made up of sections of pipe, not a continuous single pipe. These breaks/connections in the piping make it easier to create these sections in scale and assemble them as well. Look at some pics of installed turbo systems for inspiration and how the piping is routed + connected. Sorry for so many words! Lol ... hope I could help some.

These are the filters I've been using lately. Styrene or aluminum tube or rod (your choice), top and bottom cap, aluminum tubing base, and added aluminum mesh for the filter screen. Turbo VW 1.8T : Open element filter on GT500 : You can see what I used on these, a mix of aluminum and styrene along with the mesh (railroad aisle). On the right are the intake tube, aluminum "filter" body, aluminum "filter" coupling, styrene top and bottom filter caps: You can see the filter mocked in this pic (upper right): In this pic, the filter is nearly done. The "coupling" on the bottom is aluminum (painted black) with a strip of BMF to act as a hose clamp. Since I was detailing the inside of the filter as well, as some open element units have an open cap and air venturi inside I replicated that detail by using a "silver beading cone" from Hobby Lobby (beading aisle) which was cut down to fit inside of the "filter body." The trim ring is punched from .005 aluminum and gets placed on the top "cap" which was styrene (painted black). Hope some of this helps! Any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks Dave I mainly started experimenting because I wasn't very pleased with kit and after market air filters. Here are some pics of the process I described above. You dont need to use the miter box but it does help keep the lines your cutting into the rod straight. The example piece is kinda small in diameter but this was only for demonstration. Also, the other styrene type is just some misc. pieces I had laying around but you can easily see how some styrene bits can be mocked up into a convincing air filter. The one where the rod is pulled along the saw blade works and is fairly convincing, but my "go to" filter <my preference> is the one made up of styrene rod, with styrene top and bottom caps (punched from flat sheet styrene), and an aluminum section at the base which is the part that slips onto your intake tube or directly onto the turbo. The pics (I hope) will help explain this. Here is whats needed: Pulling or dragging the rod of your diameter choice along the saw blade: The result trimmed from the original rod: You can see you basically cut small teeth or pleats into the rod. A top and bottom cap (round disc) + some detail painting and you have a very convincing open element air filter. Here my top and bottom caps are not the correct diameter, I just grabbed some on my desk but I think you get the idea. The mock up filter on the right is what I'll talk about next. The "mesh" and misc:

Using that ribbed styrene for building an intercooler is also what I did before. Works really well. If you have a small miter box and the saw blades that go with them (like the xacto ones) you can make a pretty convincing air filter element using large styrene rod. Take a section of the round styrene (diameter of your choice) and place in the miter box. Now take a course toothed saw blade and slip it in your miter box in the center position (for making straight cuts). What you'll be doing here is placing the saw on the styrene rod and dragging the rod along the saw blade. This cuts "v" shaped grooves in the styrene rod. After your happy with a section, rotate the styrene and continue the process until you cut grooves in the rod all the way around. Now slice a section of the rod off in the length of the air filter element your application requires. You can make a simple cap for the filter using misc. styrene and also a hose coupling on the other end using a small section of aluminum tubing. For the filter, you can then paint and detail it however you wish. I'm at work otherwise I'd post a couple ref. pics for ya. Hope that helps!

There is zero info on either website regarding this. Hmmm....