Jairus

How big? I made mine while I was in High School, been using it ever since. I can do a full body if I have to but mostly just fenders, windshields and radial engine cooling shrouds...

I am glad you guys can see the humor in this but I am out a significant amount of money! I worked on three illustrations that were weird enough as to NOT be sale-able to anybody even tho they were listed on ebay and eModelcars for many months! I gave my best efforts to this project and you guys make jokes!!! Thank you sooo much for your help.

Update: You are not going to believe this.... On a whim I google'd the email address and found this: http://www.sgn.org/sgnnews34_29/page8.cfm Click if you dare and note the first paragraph! This explains sooooo much!!!!!

This is not a joke. May also be going under the name of Logan Percy or Percy Logan. I was contacted by a person using the name Snoopy Chrysler. This person had a higher than normal slightly femine voice, who wished me to produce three airbrushed illustrations. The return phone number was a Washington area code, Auburn/Tacoma area. We talked on the phone a number of times so I know at one time this was a good number. He used this email address: loganpercyc@canada.com which I know was also good at the time as we corrosponded a few times using it. The contract was struck over the phone in January and I did the artwork within the 30 days specified. However, after receiving the proofs... the customer disappeared and the phone number now comes up as disconnected. No answer from the email address. This person related belonging to a local model car club. Wished to attend the '07 Pacific Northwest Model Fest, and discussed his model projects with me at length. If you or anyone you know fits this description then please call me or drop me an email. Thank you, Jairus Watson 503-587-7443 jairuswtsn@aol.com

And from out of the woods in Oregon... Worked on this last evening and so now have something to report. A new fan shroud was vacuum formed because research has shown that I got the exhaust manifold on the wrong side of the heads. Exhaust ports are on the back side, therefore I removed the exhaust manifold and will use 7 straight pipes simply venting to the rear of the car. Also, the engine clutch is part of the cooling fan which was cast in aluminum and might also be the flywheel but the information is not quite complete there yet... At any rate, I will probably run power down to a transmission mounted on the front lower crossmember making the shift linkage simple. Then power will move back to the rear axle. After discovering the correct rotational direction of this motor, I also realized that the intake tubes need to be replaced. I also got the tube size too thick. Not a problem to replace! Rear motor bracket now perches on the ends of the frame horns. I will have to beef them up somehow, keeping in mind what a Highschool kid with a torch might do...

I have always loved this piece... (Hope it shows up) http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/dieca...rad-hauler2.jpg

Of course there is but you need to be looking in the Military paint section. This is what the "Jarhead" modelers use last to give the armor a final flat finish. I use a product by Testors called "Dullcote Lacquer". Yes, it is lacquer and needs to be sprayed with an airbrush and cleaned up with lacquer thinner. It also needs to be shook up very well as the flattening agents settle on the bottom pretty quick. Floquil also sells a good enamel flat clear if enamel is more your game. Floquil "Dust" is also a great product if used sparingly as it contains a slight bit of light pigment. If used too heavily, it will lighten up black and soften white paint. Jairus

Totally agree Steve!

That pic looks hinky to me! Too many pipes. How does the transmission connect to the axles? Where are the rear suspension springs located? Blower is driven by one little "V" belt? Heads are mounted backwards.

Patience Grasshopper! All will be revealed in soon when the sun has set 4 more times . Today I am working on articles for Model Cars Magazine so no playing with models right now. (However, I did work for a couple of hours on the Truckster last night and made a decision! This is going to look sooooo cool ... updates posted later) Whomever designed that Chrysler is NUTS! Nice build!

I stumbled across this web site searching for radial engine info.... Check it out and tell me you are NOT actually curious that it might actually work? "Sal's Jet Engine Project"!

Beautiful! Looks painfully correct.... wish I had built it.

Josef, What a wicked little machine! I love Mustangs of any year and really like this one in blue with the Magnum wheels. So... how did you get five lug wheels on a 4 lug axle... hmmm? I tried a couple of times to fix the title but for some stupid reason the cap feature is turned on forum wise. I can talk to the web master but he is really not that sharp....

Well Tim, I am on the fence with that decision. Half of me wants to leave it where a normal engine would reside because that is how a kid would think... Either way, a bit of engineering is required to connect the engine and rear axle. On the other hand.... the heavier rear axle and suspension upgrades make a rear placement more logical. Also, that is the way it was located in the Stuart Tank... Hangin off the rear huh?

These are the basic instructions for posting pictures on this forum. Photo storage: To post pictures on this Forum you need your pictures stored somewhere OFF your computer and on a commercial photo site. There are many photo hosting sites, some free and some with a nominal charge, that will work. Fotki and Photobucket are just two of many. You can also store your pic's on a web site server if you have access. You just cannot store them on your computer. Photo size: A good size to shoot for is 720 x 490 pixels (10 x 4.5 inches) at 72dpi. That’s a file size of 156Kb. We want to keep this forum friendly for everyone including those who still have dial-up. Shooting pictures with your own camera set the resolution for SQ2. Any higher quality and you will need some type of photo-cropping software on your computer that can reduce the size. Photo posting: Ok, lets say that you now have an account on Fotki! Those pictures now have an address in the system you can access. That address is in the address line of your browser. You can highlight and copy that address. Open a new browser window, paste that address and hit Enter. If the picture opens in the new window then you can post that address on this Forum and everyone will see it! If it opens the "picture hosting web site" asking for a password.... it won't work on this Forum. Photobucket has a nice service. If you don't have a Photobucket account, go there and set one up. It's easy and free. Once you have the account, create a photo album and upload all your pix to it. Once they are "parked" on the Photobucket site, all you need to do to post a picture here is to copy the photo's url (IMG code) and paste it here into your post. (image courtesy of Harry P.) OK, you click "Post Reply" or "New Topic" and you start typing in the little box. Up above the box are a row of buttons, among them is one labeled (Img). Click that button + Paste or type the address for the picture you want to post + click (Img) again. It should look something like this: [img ]http://web%20address/photoname.jpg[/img ] (I had to add spaces inside the commands to allow them to show. Spaces anywhere in the above line will result in a red “X†or a blue “?†depending on PC or Mac) <<<<< if you get this then there is something wrong! [ ] - Brackets are a command for the browser. [/ ] - Brackets with a back slash tells the browser to cancel command. You have to have both for the photo to post like this: It will be a little different for each person depending on computer, browser, photohosting and processor knowledge. Ask questions if you need to and send me a PM if any of you more experienced "bloggers" wants to add something to these instruction. Ciao

Aaron, Galaxie Ltd. is not a company. It is basically just one retired guy who doesn't need the money a new kit would bring. Due to a shrinking market, he is also concerned that such a new kit might NOT recoup enough to cover the vast cost of the new tooling! He has talked about new kits these last ten years and even hired a few freelance analysts, artists and engineers to work out the details. The molds of such a kit would most likely be made in Korea like the Chevrolets and most Tamiya kits. I don't believe it's in the cards right now. We may not even see a re-issue of the Chevrolet kits so I would hang onto as many as you can because the price is going to go through the roof as demand goes up. Just check out how much All American's resin kits brought on eBay! By the way, I like how this Monogram 1939 Chevrolet is coming together. Very nice! The spare tire was always accessed from under the rear floor when the cargo door is opened. This is the same as the Fords of the era.

Welcome Mick, please add your name to the sig box.... just like S.B.!

Hmmmmm, in the back!

Poetic license is always taken when ever building a street rod! That is why the military modelers cannot understand us in my opinion. They build under heavy rules which dictate the very color they use and where the markings go. If those rules are not adhered to then the model ends up as fantasy. We are artists and build under no such rules. Anything goes and the more different it is the better we like it and that is the reason you are seeing here what your seeing here! Anyway, the tank engine is scratchbuilt as close to 1/25 as I could get. I built it a number of years ago from a photo of one found in a wrecking yard and the scale was determined by the other junk around the engine. The engine in the picture was very weathered having set on the ground under the eve of a shed for many years. Steel rusts but the aluminum bits had turned a dusty gray color as the alloys broke down. The contrasts were stunning and I wanted to build my self one and .... did! However, I might not weather this one that heavily since it is actually suppose to run. One thing I notice with this mounting is the engine is BIG! 250hp in stock form makes this a great motor for a young junkyard parts picker with-which to build a Rat Rod. But even with most of the engine made of aluminum the center of gravity is way higher than it should be. Handling would be scary to say the least. I am actually considering going back to the 400cid Caddy motor and a more conservative appearance... The shroud about the back side contains a big fan which pushes air past the clutch and over the cylinders and out the back of the tank vents. Here, it would work just fine out in the open... but my research has thus far not told me the rotational direction of the original Continental engine. Therefore the fan has not been constructed yet. The clutch and transmission mounting are not yet figured out but looks pretty weird.

You are really trying to force my hand arn'tcha? Okay, not a Sherman tank engine. But very very close! It is a replica of an M3A1 Stuart light tank engine. 250hp 7 cyl gas powered radial, which was air cooled and built by Continental. The Sherman M4 engine was 9 cyl and diesel.

Hmmmmmm, redo racer X?

Told you not to ask Not telling just yet.... but not aircraft!

V, I rarely steal parts from a mint kit as this box contains bits and pieces from 4 kits.... I buy up these "swap meet" finds with the hope of finding a home for of the bits sometime in the future. Incidentally I have two rubbermade TUBS full of cast off parts for digging through like Scrooge McDuck and his cartoon money bin! New mockup: Don't even ask...

Now THAT is a "RAT"! Nice stance and I like where you are going with it. Please do not do a second rear axle. They wouldn't have done it in the past and it would look way tooo long now. Just double up the rear tires! However, the spoke wheels would never have been able to take the weight and NEVER would have appeared on the rear axle of a tow truck. (Front is okay) Aftermarket steel disc wheels were the cool thing back in the 30's when the owner wanted something that was stronger than the spindly spokes. Where are you going to find them..? I guess you could make'm. I like the straight engine... I think?!?!

Holy ###### Joe, that is way off the cool meter! Is it a curb side? Because I would love to see how your resolved the connection between the engine and the rest of the drive-line. I built one of these myself many years ago and just might be persuaded to post it. However, this is not really a "Rat Rod" as you stated. (I suggest you change that) A Rat Rod is a statement more than a trend. It is "anti-billet", "anti-big bucks", "anti-trailered" and generally unsafe at any speed! :ph34r: Okay, I will be the first to admit that your car fits all those criteria but it is too clean and too well engineered. I might term it more like a Nostalgia rod or some sort of Period piece rather than a Rat. A Rat is clearly "ratty" like with rusted out floor boards, dangerous engineering, dirt and mismatched panels. I do not want to end up thrashing you here and sorry if I have, but this is one of my pet peeves and the coffee is talking... Welcome to MCM forums! I love how you think and love your Allison powered street rod! Please put your name in the signature box above the quote and you will make a great addition to this forum.