Jairus

V, Better make sure that the suspension is really low. I mean REALLY LOW, like ground scraping.... totally undriveable.... can't fit a freeking piece of paper under it LOW! OKAY?

I was kind of hoping that this thread would die a merciful death but... now that you brought it back V, I shall remember you as well!

Nice color match... or did you paint the car carrier too? BTW, how did you manage to get 182 posts and never post your full name? Please put your first and last name in the signature box found in the My Controls section. Thanks!

Those are pieces of shopping carts being used for seat backs! Whoe.... I have one of those flashlights too..... Cool rod... BTW, I like the dash Virgil!

you crack me up James....

Items to add to the interior: Tools Liquor bottles 8-track tapes pizza box (Scale Equipment Ltd.) Beer cans

Dang it Bill! You got me going again on my '55 Sunliner again. I pulled it off the shelve and went through the box again last night but unfortunately you have already exceeded my expectations with your high quality. What are you going to do for the trunk trim since this is a Fairlane series? Hmmmmm

This thread brings up sooooo many questions... I want to see and know how the heck SOMEONE made a working top....? I wonder if and how Marcos is going to delete this thread now that BILL has made a post....? Why is Marcos testing? What is Marcos testing? Boxers or briefs? No, wait I don't want to know that last one...

Hey V, don't fret some much over matching the illustration.... your work is beautiful in it's own rite and a stand alone based on the high quality you have put into the textures and patina. The dash is perfect! Make sure one of the gauge faces are cracked... The bed choice is interesting.... I have no idea which I would choose but you will do fine with either. Actually all three truck designs were suppose to have the fuel tank in the bed but it doesn't show in all three of the illustrations. The fuel tank in the bed gives the builder the chance to add trash and dirt around the edges with a particular accumulation around the fuel tank due to the fact that it's harder to clean there. (Trash= crumpled leaves, real dirt and railroaders ballast) This is quickly becoming one of the most popular threads my friend.... keep going! J

... and? Are you going to finish the story? Don't keep us hanging on the nails....

Hmmm, without your thumb... some of those pictures could have qualified for the "model or real" quiz this week! Nice work Bill.

Yes they are in the kit. However, they are not correct for a 1941 engine. I guess you can get away with that if it is a street rod... 1937 to 1948 the water outlets were in the middle of the heads. 1949 to 1953 they were at the front. This holds true for aftermarket low compression heads as well. By the way Brian, nice build!

Nice work on that rear panel! What are you going to put behind the mesh screen?

Headlights are chrome King Bee's. I forgot to add that to the copy, but make it your model and do what you want...

Another thing to consider is when you buy a sheet at the Hobby Shop, it is not necessarly FRESH. That sheet could have been made a long while ago and simply stored prior to shipping. Not to mention how long it has been hanging on the hook. I believe that what Harry found by calling BMF may be the answer. That the problem is not so much age, although that is a factor, but humidity! The backing sheet is paper and paper expands and contracts with changes in humidity. The foil cannot expand with the backing so it cracks! Maybe the answer is keeping it sealed in a ziplock gallon sized bag during storage?

3men2s, your name please!! :ph34r:

Looking much better V!

Yeah, you can use real rust.... and real mud... and real grease... and real oil... and real gas.... and..... then, why are we playing with toys and not the real thing? I hope I am not taking the wind out of Ray's tip because it really is a good one! But.... it is not as stable as paint and never will be. And you still need to paint on some sort of stabilizer to keep the "rust" in place because it is in actuality a dust. Once dry it will eventually fall off. The key to a good model is to create an illusion that it is a real car.... not use real materials unless it actually is better! One thing I have noticed about rust is that it is comprised of many tones depending on a lot of factors, not the least of which is depth, moisture and base material. I have found that the use of both Model Master and Floquil "Rust", because one is darker than the other, dry brushing the light over the dark... and used in conjunction with a little corn starch for depth... gives a very realistic appearance to sheet metal. However, cast iron looks better if a light airbrushed dusting of the light over the dark looks more realistic. One must remember, that cast iron exhaust manifolds don't usually get wet but they still rust due to moisture in the air. Then there is the rust you see around bolts under the bonnet that have had the paint rubbed off from tool use... this rust color is usually very light because it neither gets hot nor wet. But that is just me.... By the way VW Dave, that is some mightyfine work there you just posted!

Beautiful build! I love box art builds and I think we see too few of them. Also, could you please put your name in the sig. box found in My Controls section. We use our names in this forum. Thanks!

Welcome! Feel free to look around and check out all the great builds and tips. A friendlier board you will not find! One thing you might notice is that we all use our real names here. Please put your first and last name in the signature box found in the My Controls section of this forum. Thanks!

Virgil, Just a thought, paint a little 50/50 mix of a black wash over those rims and they will look much better. Remember, this is suppose to be a used and driven car. I usually use a 0/4 brush and just touch the cracks allowing the wash to simply flow into the crack. But, you might need to spray a clearcoat on the rims first to seal in the paint. Sometimes the wash will soften the base color and allow the plastic to show through.... That is a bummer!

Yup, I agree with Bob, that is an old sheet. I don't do a major modeling job until I buy a fresh sheet. However, I have NEVER stored mine in the frig... but it makes sense...

Probably a finer grit since aluminum is softer than silver. But it should work... just take longer! No worries about trying it eh?

I used a stick of rouge and a polishing wheel on my Hubley radiator grill and it polished up pretty nice. Not chrome... but pretty good. you could also use silver polish and a soft cloth. Silver polish can be found at most any grocery store or Walgreens as it is used to keep the good Silver shiny!

I think he said he wanted a quiet one!