Jairus

The "un-named" engine in the new Revell kit is either a Caddy or an Oldsmobile. At the time those were the biggest motors available.

Looks good Craig!

That car looks really good Billy! You are getting so much better at shooting pictures that it could almost be mistaken for a 1:1!

Chrome-Tech does not take months!! This is how rumors get started and I will not stand for it. Your post is very close to being edited!!! However, he does run the machine once a month. If you send your parts in just AFTER he last ran the vacuum chamber then your parts are going to have to sit for a month before they can be worked on. Best bet is to call and find out the deadline....BEFORE sending. I have always had good experiences with Chrome-Tech. )

GSL is short for "Greater Salt Lake Model Car Contest". The contest has been held since 1979 and is considered to be the premiere event for all model car, truck and motorcycle builders in the U.S.! The Classes are chosen and parameters decided upon by the judges and managers who host this contest. If you want to know more about the classes, then click on the link I have provided and read about it!

Harbor Freight.... also known as "The Made in China" store! Be careful you don't take anything purchased there internally as it could be loaded with lead or other poisons!

.... and could be deadly if used in a closed room....

Thank you... nope and great idea!

Yeaaahhhhh that's pretty cool the way it is going. But, you'll be cutting it up again when you see the NEXT sketchpad....

I think I was 15....

Congratulations Mark Jones for making the cover! Nice issue Gregg, but you didn't identify the good looking guy giving the award to Karen Couch on pg 40. (He's soooo hot...)

:) Just spray it with an airbrush and clean up with water....

Wellcome Phil and thanks for reading the rules and posting your name!

Looks good Tipstang, and welcome to MCM forums. Please read the board rules and post your name. Thanks!

Nothing beats airbrushing with a compressor!!! Shooting paint through an airbrush, whatever the brand or type, with a can of air is going to change the flow of the air through the unit from the very moment you push the button! How can you get used to or proficient with something like that? Compressors and regulators are as necessary to airbrushing as is the airbrush itself. The only bottled air I would use is a large tank filled up at the local Gas station with a small cheap regulator attached. That can last you for one or two models before it needed recharging if you don't have any leaks in the system. I personally have a Sears 22 gal tank with a 5 hp compressor. Cost around 150 when it was new.... 6 years ago. I fill the tank once a week and use it until the tank is nearly empty. Fire up the motor rarely now and that ###### thing is near bullet proof. Love it! Last thing they will pry out of my cold dead hands my compressor and airbrush..... Is anyone still reading this? Your mileage may vary, please do not take internally....

The title is based on number of posts. Gregg should turn that off as some folks (not here currently) on some forums work real hard to build up their numbers just to become an: advanced member. On another forum I belong to, you can change that to what ever you want to. But Gregg set it so that it is automatic. But, you are right in that it has nothing to do with knowledge... except in my case of course (said with the most sarcastic voice possible)

I am answering a question about this for an Ask G&J column. Sorry, but I rarely follow the political dust storm that may or may not swirl around Bob Shelton and the reason why he is apparently not answering repeated requests for the 4th edition. Any ideas? Also, anybody know where ELSE to acquire this directory? Thanks

Draping? Smooth arches? Carefully routed? Or sloppy.... it all depends on what your replicating. That is something to consider at all times. A street rod builder will carefully, almost anal like, route the wires so that they do not touch each other or anything else as they run their course from distributor to each plug. Not so 99.9% of the other cars on the road depending on age. The older the car and the more maintenance that has been preformed, generally the plug wires are pushed this way and that in order to get to other failed bits and pieces. Just something to keep in mind…. Along with good common forum courtesy!

Just the thing for hauling gravel for the driveway....

You will have better control with the tiny drill bits if you use your Xacto knife handle to hold the bit. Most new collets are cut with a cross so that even the tiniest bit will fit in the center. Then just place the bit, give a tiny bit of pressure and slowly rotate the handle between your fingers until it starts cutting. Don't bother drilling out the nubs on a distributor cap. You will never be able to do it successfully all 9 times. Instead, sand the top down to the flat and then drill. Use paint around the base of the wire to replicate the rubber boots. Anything else will appear too thick. You can always add layers of paint to build up a definition but it gives you more control than trying to slip a tiny bit of rubber tube over to create a boot that will ultimately look way out of scale. I use superglue to hold wires. Put a drop on a business card (small, generally worthless and most are printed on coated stock so the glue doesn’t soak in) and then simply dab the end of the wire in the glue and insert. You can also use a toothpick to dab the glue on the base of the wire if it is already installed. But never use the end of the bottle to apply the glue as it can... AND WILL come out too fast thus covering your subject and fingers with glue!!!

You so smart. Me so art. I gotta fart...

Do you have Chuck's phone number Gregg? I'll look...

Yup, worked for me too! But now what do I do with an Edsel with that wild a paint....????

Kyle, Try a different web browser. Nearly all computers are loaded with more than one browser... I have 6! Copy and paste the link into the address window and see if that works.