Jairus

Modelbuil, That is pretty nice! Nostalgia rod is actually the correct term. Rat Rod is too over used in my opinion and generally suppose to be a statement against the high dollar billet rods that come out of So-Cal. Your rod is too nice to be labeled with that term. By the way, please take a few moments and read the forum rules. If you want to stay here at MCM then you need to post your name in each post. Best way to do this is put your name, first and last, in the signature text box found in the Profile section. That would be YOUR profile section because you need to be logged in to do this. Thank you! 8)

The Mura is one of my favorite all time cars along with Ferrari 365 GTB and the '69 Mustang Mach I.

Bowtienutz, We need your name please and welcome to MCM forums! Please take a moment and read the forum rules... Thanks!

gearjammer, Welcome to MCM forums! Please take a moment and read the forum rules... Thanks!

Coonster, Welcome to MCM forums! Please take a moment and read the forum rules... Thanks!

I'm taking bets that the top half of the car is in perfect shape once they scrape off the mold. The bottom half will be totally rusted away and the whole thing sold for scrap. Except for the Hemi engine which they will sell for 2500 on eBay!

Wow Alex... you should write for a magazine or sumptin! :shock:

Miguel, you gotta learn how to post pictures my friend..... 8) By the way, super neat dio dude!!!

YOUR KIDDING!?!!? That looks like a def. GM product to me..... resin?

Jon, Used is not a big deal. Worn out is.... ! Soak the tip and needle in some lacquer thinner for a bit and that should clean it up. A pancake compressor with an auto shut off is nice for this application. However, high humidity will create water in the line... I would get a couple of "in-line" disposable water traps for now. They need to be mounted as far away from the compressor as possible. I also use quick disconnects for ease of disassembly and cleaning. Here is my unit. The compressor is a Craftsman 22 gal with 5HP motor. The motor can be wired for 110v or 220v. Think I paid just a bit less than a hundred for it. It is in the garage and my studio is right behind this wall so I have plumbed the air direct! Note the extra 8-tracks outside in the garage. :eyeroll: Also note the other air hoses with which I can fill the air in my tires and the neighborhood kid's bicycles.... Also note the cool old grinder and wire brush used almost daily found at local garage sale for obscenely cheap price! The water trap is located about 6 or 7 feet away from the compressor after poking through the wall. Note the quick disconnect, the messy workbench and lack of water in the bowl. This is because all the water is located in the bottom of my air tank rusting IT out! Badger airbrush and slot car body recently painted with same.... 8)

Jon, Yes. There is an adaptor that screws onto the can and it has a small thumbscrew valve that opens and closes the airline as well. Black, chrome or whatever, you are going to need that if you want to use the compressed air in the can. I had one about 20 years ago... not in the junk drawer. Not sure what happend to it. I would have sent it to you if I could find it. The sales person should have sold that to your wife along with the brush and can.

Bob is right about the air compressor. I purchased my compressor on sale at Sears when they were closing out that series number. Still a good Craftsman compressor and the tank is huge for me. I can fill it once a week and run on the compressed air for 7 days before turning it back on! (10hp 22gl) The teflon seals can be purchased at most art stores or hobby shops that sell airbrushes and parts. Seals run about 1.75 at my art store. I have one left.... bummer! J

Jon, This is the same airbrush I use almost exclusively! I have used others but I keep coming back to the Badger. I am on my second 150 because I wore out the first! I paint models, slot cars and paintings. Been doing this since 1984 or 85 so I think you have a good product. If you want to move to a Pasche or Iwata later on then fine but keep the Badger. Having a number of airbrushes is not a bad thing. I have three but prefer the Badger. The Badger is also excellent to learn on due to the double action. Takes time to learn but keep with it. Spraying for me is now so automatic that I do not even have to think about it unless it starts spitting or one of the seal’s leak. Now, down to the weakness…. That would be the Teflon seal! Buy lots of those and I mean LOTS!!!! They wash down the freaking sink way too easy. The Teflon seal is a little white washer under the tip. You will see it when you clean it the first time. It drops off with the slightest provocation and not worth searching down in the “U†bend for. Just buy a bunch of them as back up. Clean up…. Don’t bother with the little bottles of paint. Just mix your paint about the consistency of milk (lacquer or enamel or latex don’t matter) and then pour it into the little metal cup and spray. When the cup is empty, pour more into it, wipe up the drip and spray more! Then run a little lacquer thinner through the brush for clean up. Drop the metal cup in a small jar of lacquer thinner, UP SIDE DOWN. Pull it out when ready to paint again. When you are finished for the day then throw the tip into the thinner without the Teflon seal. The needle can be wiped down and the body of the brush dunked into the thinner and swabbed out with a paper towel. The next day pull the tip out of the thinner and re-assemble the airbrush and your ready to go! Simple as pie! Ask me more questions if you want in this thread. I will keep watching it. Good luck and practice, practice, practice! J P.S. think about getting a compressor with an air tank....

Ralph was a jerk! He used the Corvair as a stepping stone toward becoming known and eventually running for president (failed). He had no concerns for public safety and the Corvair as redesigned in 1965 addressed all safety concerns. The 1965 - 69 Corvair was a fantastic piece of engineering! GM killed it because of the high cost for maintenance and the fact that by 1969 sales were waning due to fact that the more convention Chevy Nova was cheaper to build. My brother's first car was a 66 Monza and I learned to drive on Dad's Corvair Corsa Sprint! Loved that car.....

No... I do'nt know... are you going to show us?

Wellllll, truth be known.... I would love a copy myself. Something to place on a scale engine stand. Be very cool! However, I will wait to see what the final result and see what the bottom line is! :wink:

Well, that's COOOL! 8)

Hey Mark, you had better wait to see the price tag.... :shock:

Detroit made an automotive application for that engine? :shock: :shock: :shock: More likely it was a Marine application (PT boats or something like that) and that I can understand. Never seen that sort of gear housing. But here is another gear housing that is set lower. It is for the XP2H-1 Flying boat. Photo courtesy of oldengine.org At any rate, I would love to see progress on your project. Thank you for joining and posting. 8)

I have been staring at your computer-modeled illustrations. Something seems slightly off. I noticed this as well on the AMT parts pac Allison. That is that the reduction gearbox is mounted too low on the engine. I think this is a mistake made at AMT. I would hope you wouldn’t make the same mistake with your fantastic and industrious project. Note the photo shown below. See how the crankshaft is lined up with the lower portion of the gearbox? The upper shaft should be lined up with the valley between the cylinders. Allison V-1710 Photo courtesy of CAF West Houston Squadron Photo courtesy of warbirdalley.com I would have posted one of the many pictures I took of this historic WWII powerplant but after an hour searching my hard drive … figure I lost it or named it something crazy like P0342346.jpg or so such rot.

Wecome Tim! Love the pictures of my fav WWII aircraft engine. Now do a Junkers!!!! Ok, kidding. But I'm not kidding about names.... we need your first and last name posted in the Signature Text Box found in the Profile section of this board. Other than that, you will fit in here beautifully! Have fun... 8)

The purpose of a spread axle was to add more weight! In Oregon a set of two axles is good for 34,000 lbs with a spread of less than 8 ft., legal axle weights or multiple item load. With a spread of 9' you can carry 39,000 lbs. With a spread of 10' you get a max of 40,000 lbs. on that set of axles. There is no benefit to a longer spread than 10' because no single axle is good for greater than 20,000 lbs. unless it is with a Heavy Haul permit. And THAT is for a single item load! These rules are pretty much universial country wide. When you guys build your trucks... a good idea would be to check your local Department of Transportation web site and make sure your build is legal. This is especially true when building a heavy haul vehicle. 8) Feel free to ask me any questions about trucking as I worked for ODOT for 13 years selling truck permits.... :wink:

Now there is an interesting project! We have a 4 door Willys (think its a Willys....) running around my area with a small block Chevy engine. The car is totally restored stock on the outside and interior but with a dependable suspension and drive train and of course more power....

The question can be answered many ways depending upon which scale, type and year of manufacturer of car you are talking about. But here are a few generalities about all slot cars. Low center of gravity is always the best. Remove any extra body weight. Make vacuumformed window glass Make the body fit loose enough to rattle on it's mounts. Adjust the gear lash so that there is no gear noise. Glue and true the tires to the rims. Look for faster motors. Break them in underwater is a good idea.... Trim down the front wheels to just a thin piece. Adjust the front guide so that it tilts up at a slight 3 degree angle and make sure the brushes lie flat against the guide. Oil bearings frequently. Add weight to the nose and tail but NOT the middle and test frequently. Change one thing at a time. If it dosn't work, put it back and try something else.