Jairus

Gary, I use all kinds of glue including what you mention. Each is best for whatever purpose depending on stress. Hinges are attached with epoxy because they get worked hard and have to live with undue stress. However, there maybe something you are NOT taking into account and that is roughing up the gluing surface. I always rough up a surface with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper when strength is necessary. This gives the glue a 100% more surface area to grab onto. Give it a try, especially with epoxy!

I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages.... I am getting tired of deleting repetitive messages....

Thank you Mike. No not digital, that is a scan of a painstakingly hand drawn, inked and acrylic airbrushed painting. It is suitable for framing at 22" x 18" on cold rolled Strathmore bristol.

The model kit is rare and expensive if you can find one. Here I have illustrated the famous show car with a figure in period clothing and look. Enjoy! This image is currently available on eModelCars.com!

William, That is your oil vent. There should be a twist off cap that fits onto that peg. On the real engine, that is where the oil would be added, as it drains right down into the galley over the timing chain. The normal hot water exit would indeed be in the middle when a normal manifold is inplace. But you replaced it with the fuel injected manifold which does NOT include a cast section to connect the two water jackets together. Here is a period engine with the oil galley vent plugged but the water exits are very apparent. The oil vent/fill on the pictured engine would be through a cap on the valve covers. (Waterjacket: includes water flowing through the cylinder walls, up through ports in the block to the heads and then forward to the only water exit at the front of the heads. The left and right bank do not join anywhere between the water pump and the manifold.)

Willam, Jody is correct. Those are your coolant outlets. They would run to the radiator from there. Usually, most rodders would mount a cross tube connecting them together with a single outlet in the middle. This pipe was generally chromed with a simple rubber connector and two hose clamps on each side. Then the regular ribbed coolant hose could be routed to the top tank of the radiator. Drag racers on the other hand would connect the two ports with a single rubber hose and eliminate the water pump altogether. My only problem with the valve covers is there are no attachment bolts in the normal postitions around the flange like there is on a Chevy. The two top bolts would have been acceptable but is that possible/available on a real period Chevrolet engine? If you are concerned with accuracy then that is something to consider. Personally, I think it looks pretty cool with the Chevy covers.

Sure have the right attitude so far! Thanks for posting and ... keep us informed as to progress.

Welcome aboard Frank! I like where you are going with that project. Keep us updated please. Are you going Revell for the engine? Best correct era Flathead 4 available in my humble opinion. 8)

Nice closeup shots. That is something we don't get to see very often... 8)

Actually Michael, it was Wayne who gave you the links...

The room is too clean but the build is very nice! 8)

Pretty cool! Keep going, keep going.....

Mr. Stevens! How the heck is Florida? Likeing the weather and the strange people that move there..... present company excepted of course....

Yeah, Andy's got it! chop a bit off the back side to lower the back of the roof and then fill in the sides to make a correct Carson! Brilliant! The back edge of the Vicky body and the back edge of the side window opening should be at or near the same angle. Would be VERY cool!

Supercharger was flat aluminum. Rear axle bare steel with weld marks and.. Drivers undies were white froot of the loom....

Very nice Rob. Like how this is coming along. I forget... is this going to be a worn, weathered example or a clean new excavator? :?:

Sparkplug wire is the same diameter as the valve stem. Why re-invent something? Drill a hole and insert the wire. Add a drop of superglue to the underside. Trim the wire and put the wheel on. DONE!

I like the fenders and redlines too but change the roofline. Chop it down.... change the side opening shape... just change it somehow to make it YOURS! K? K!

Girl car? Where are the boobies?

Nice comparison dude! I am quite impressed... But.... did you try sanding? This is one reason I love Plastikote.

1955 - 1965. Big, purposeful, stylish without having to be gaudied up with tack-on chrome everything! Cars had chrome, trucks didn't! Eventhough I was too young to notice at the time, the effects of that era reverberate even today.

Very nice Bill!

Looks good to me! 8)

You know... the salt guy!

It is! And... welcome Robyn.