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Everything posted by Semi Trailer Mechanic
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What's goin' on... Yesterday (12.19.08) I took the day off work to have some time for myself. (and a 3day week end WOO HOO) I went and pulled an incomplete project out of storage and finished it up. Some pieces were lost and a few things got broken but I did the best I could to finish it up!!! This is the Fred's Towing R/G W900 I built based on a truck that belonged to a since fallen flag trucking company Berta Bros. from Canon City,Colorado. Here's the truck I based it on. Still not sure which trailer I'm going to pair up w/ this... Thanks for looking!!!
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What's goin' on... These are what I prefer to use. I've found that Ambroid works best assembling kit pieces. It takes a little time to set up "not alot" and it holds like vice grips!!! This in my opion should replace that testors bottle glue and the smell isn't that bad. Tenex7-R is good for moderate thickness styrene and it has the least fumes to it that's what I like most about it. The best thing to use to apply that are those little black brushes in packs you find at most hobby shops. It sets up lightning fast. If ya use it to assemble kit pieces it evaporates fast and multiple applications have to be made for it to bond the pieces togather but it works great. It fastened strip styrene to PVC pipe for a tanker project I built several years ago but it took alot to do it! And I mean ALOT!!! I used a seringe to apply it. Ya have to be careful it will distort thin styrene. Sometimes w/ this adding small fragments of styrene to the jar will thicken the liquid a little. Usually when a bottle gets down to about 1/4 full I'll do this it works well for filling gaps (minor) If you brush it on glass it will ruin the surface but it does look like frost/ice so it can be used for weathering winter/cold details. I've done this already and it looks good! Recently a hobby shop employee introduced me to 5 min. epoxy. It works good for joining dissimilar media (brass to plastic for example) or when doing rebuilds/repairs. Just like actual welding where the metal should be as clean as possible prior to striking an arc the principles are the same using solvent cement. The 5 min.epoxy is more forgiving than the solvents (Tenex7-R Ambroid). Make sure you get a good mix or it won't hold that well. I go for a 1:1 ratio. This I use in place of super glue because it won't leave a fog. I have yet to try to use it as a gap filler. I don't reccomend getting the Tamiya solvent cement unless it's the only option. It's the same as Ambroid but it smells stronger,takes longer to cure, and it's more exspensive. I got it just to see how well it works and it does work good. The jar in this picture is probably 3 years old. That tells ya how much I use it. The Plastruct Weldene is what I consider the heavy hitter of solvent cement. It's good to use for very thick styrene. Tenex7-R sometimes will give a cold weld effect (incomplete penetration) on the thicker stuff if you don't put excessive amounts on it (which is wasteful) where the Weldene doesn't take alot. It takes a long time for it to cure but when it cures ... it'll hold!!! It also will work well w/ thin styrene as well but it still takes a long time to set up. This stuff is the equivallant to having a 3/4 inch impact in your tools. Ya don't use it much but when ya need for the heavy work it's there!!! THIS STUFF SMELLS STRONG!!! Both the Weldene and the Plastruct in the orange bottle. I was burning the mid night oil a while back and spilled an entire bottle of this stuff. The smell literally woke up my girlfriend and my hobby room is down the hallway from the bedroom. When I use it I have a small desk fan on and crack the window. The Plastruct in the orange bottle is good when you're using ABS plastic (Plastruct green plastics) I seldomly use the ABS pieces so I don't bother getting this stuff. I've been told by a couple experienced builders to use a solvent called M.E.K. found at Lowe's it's sold by the gallon that's about $22.00. One of these days I may try it. Good Luck
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What's goin' on... Plano Model Products has various photo etch screen/mesh geared more towards model railroaders that looks PERFECT for grills. It also works good for cat walks and fuel tank steps. The area in the door screen mesh if I'm not mistaken would be over 1 sq.in. 25th scale.
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What's goin' on... Well Done!!! In high school I had a (1:1) 1972 442 (WISH I NEVER SOLD IT!!!) For years now building that in 25th scale has been on the to-do list. I too have the 70 Olds Cutlass Jo Han kit. A fella (needless to say I guess) that has been to every Toledo NNL since the first one picked up a resin ram air hood, girll,and plated bumpers for this project(the wing had been removed prior to me getting that car). Also the older Crager SS/T rims and tires from the Glass Pack Corvette kit will be used. Back then the first thing I did was replaced the stock Rallys w/ some Cragers w/ fat Pro Trac's in the rear and the skinnies up front. One of these years I'll get around to building that . I never knew there was a 72 442 in a kit. Man I'd like to get one of those or two!!! It's understandable why you want a second one.
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a idea for my next build
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to buba39's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
What's goin' on... Basically what you're saying is you want to build straight truck w/ the steerable lift axles. Several years ago I started a similar project only a dump truck. I started out w/ the LouEville short hauler. I used four steering axles from AMT truck kits and the bed from the Fruehauf dump trailer. Figure out what truck you want to use for the base platform. Stretch the frame as needed add a couple steering axles for the lift axles scratchbuld the hangers,attatchments,and air bags. Use a trailer kit for the box cut down as needed or scratchbuild one. Here's a picture of that truck I started. It's been three or four years since I've had the inspiration to finish it or for that matter put it back on the workbench! All you'd have to do is build a truck like this only put a box on it. Good Luck!!! -
semi truck pulling
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to buba39's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
What's goin' on... Back in diesel tech (Northwestern AKA NBC) my Diesel Fuel and Injection instructor had a 1968 R model Mack all he did to that was modify the pump. And let me tell you what that truck had the torque to rip a coupler plate right off the front of a trailer. All I'd say to do is put some contingencey decals on it. Maybe a nickname on the door. -
N.C.I.S Truck
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to danoracefan's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
What's goin' on... Here's a picture. http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_7183-Ford-Cro...a-P71-1995.html -
What's goin' on... AWESOME!!!! That "Super Coil" is too cool!!! Where did you get that or is it scratchbuilt?
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the rodent L8000
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to buba39's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
What's goin' on... Buba The engine in that kit is a Caterpiller 3208. I've been a mechanic on trucks and trailers over 17 years and have yet to see headers on a diesel. As far as cherry bombs on it they'd get lost inside an OEM muffler for this truck. Try to find a big block Ford gas engine and use that. I agree those LouEvilles are for the most part plain Jane trucks. This hobby is all about creativity. If doing this is what it's all about for you I'd say go for it. I started a LouEville several years ago and burnt myself out 110%. It's probably been three years since I touched it. Maybe one of these years I'll finish it up... -
What's goin' on The Pete is finished!!! Drilling the holes for all the rivets was the easiest task done to this. Just very redundant. The more something is done the easier it gets!!! I like that these rivets have shanks on them. Putting a dab of glue on the surface for the head of a rivet is asking for trouble. For me also it will distort the detail of the rivet. I brushed on Tenex 7R in the inside of the cab to a row of rivets then installed the rivets. The the plastic starts to melt inside the holes leaving the surface of the cab/hood flawless and the head of the rivet is perfect!!! Thanks for looking!!!
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What's goin' on... Well here it is. This is the snap-tite Revell 1:25 359 Peterbilt I built FAR from stock out of the box. Nicknamed the blue collar truck because this truck belongs to a trucking company that isn't making it's driver a whole hell of a lot of money. It leaves the yard at 3am getting it's first load and returns at 5pm six days a week three seasons out of the year. Exterior Mods... The cab was painted Tamiya Brilliant Blue and the chassis Tamiya semi gloss black. The sleeper was cut off the cab and a rear panel was made out of .060 Evergreen styrene making this a day cab. The hood and cab was measured/marked/drilled using an .021 drill bit and TitchyTrainGroup rivets .030 were used. The headlights are aftermarket resin you'd find on (1:1) 357 and 379 Peterbilts. The rims and tires are from AMT truck kits (parts box to be exact). The chassis has been moderatly plumbed using .015 and .020 Evergreen round stock used to replicate the air system plumbing . I replaced the air bags Revell had w/ those found in AMT's 359 Peterbilt kit along w/ the Luberfiner. The battery box/storeage boxes and fuel tanks had the chrome stripped off using Castrol Super Clean painted w/ Tamiya Bare Metal. Interior Mods... The interior tub obviously was cut down to fit a day cab. Plastruct Tiles was used to create the remining upholstery including the headliner. An interior light,and an overhead console w/ mirrored visors were scratchbuilt. Detail Master's interior junk kit came in handy. From that I used several CD's, a couple pine tree style air fresheners,Uvex style safety sun glasses, and keys. Yes,keys that are in the dashes ingintion (that was a real SOB to get those in there!!!) For reading material (yeah right reading) I reudced the covers of a Playboy and an older issue of Hot Rod Magazine to scale printed/cut out. Also I found a picture of a drivers log book online and reduced that to scale and printed/ cut out. Power Train Mods... The engine is a mechanical 3406. I used my old 3406B Caterpiller service manual to update and detail the engine. I used various thickness' of Evergreen Scale round stock to plumb the engine and Bare Metal Foil to make hose clamps on the intake boots from the air cleaner to the turbo. Chalk was used to weather it as well. I was going to detail and plumb the air system used on the transmission but Revell didn't do a very good job on that so I just painted it and added scale bolts. I added what's called a wet line (AKA hydraulic system) A PTO,pump, and the hydraulic oil reservoir were scratchbuilt. I used rubber tubing for the hydraulic plumbing and Detail Master compression fittings. If interested here's a link to the set of photos from beginning to end of this project here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9495602@N02/s...57608400008760/ Thanks for looking!!!
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What's goin' on... Here's the latest!!! I was originally going to detail this identical to a previous project (make it look like it belonged to the same trucking company) but I decided to take this in another direction. The game plan is to make this look like a well taken care of highly worked truck w/ over a million miles. I got all the rivets installed and the paint settled well over top w/ crisp detail. Instead of using the kit's lights I used a set of aftermarket (resin) headlights found on 357 or 379 Peterbilts. Some weathering was done using chalk. I'm considering getting some aftermarket rims and tires for this the wheels on it now won't be left on. Thanks for looking!!!
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What's goin' on... Lately, I haven't spent much time at the workbench. Here's what's been done. When the back panel for the 359 was made I decided to add rivets for detail. Well, as you can see I've gotten a little carried away (so-to-say). The rivets are .030 made by Tichy Train Group. I used an .021 drill bit and the rivet shanks fit perfect. The next time I'll try using .025 or .020 rivets the .030's look a little big. At this time I'm out of ammo my LHS said they'll have more in by the end of next week. Thanks for looking!!!
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FYI for Gregg
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to novadose71's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
What's goin' on... I had the same problem today! -
What's goin' on... That is "WICKED" VERY NICE!!!
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What's goin' on... WELL DONE!!!
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What's goin' on... As a kid I was (and still am) obsessed w/ semi trucks/trailers and hot rods I also liked to play w/ the Lincoln Logs,Tinker Toys, and Erector sets so it was inevitable that building models would be next. I started out putting togather 1:25 scale trucks. My folks thought those were too challenging for me at the time so they suggested snap-tite kits. From that point on I got the monogram 32nd scale semi trucks and funny car snap tites. Several years later my folks got divorced and my moms boyfriend who was in the Army Air Force (in China ,Burma ,and India) during WWll facinated me w/ the stories he told me and I started building WWll aircraft for a while. Then I got interested in BMX racing and girls and just hanging out w/ friends. I became the son that was never home. Later on I became interested in the guitar so I got one of those and an amp and tinkered w/ that until I turn 16 then I got rid of the bikes and the guitars and got the Notorious NOVA glass packs 4bbl carb jacked up w/ the fat tires and the polished aluminum slots!!! After hearing (WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO W/ YOUR LIFE) talks from my folks and school administraightors I decided to be either a train engineer,underwater welder(wish I pursued that one),or a truck/trailer mechanic. (Having like semis I choose that field) My senior year in high school I was cruising around in my 442 when I saw a hobby shop and stopped in for old times sake. That's when I picked up the R Model Mack 2th scale kit. I put that togather then the itch came back to build. I did muscle cars and semis thru college. Once I graduated and strated working I did it w/ a vengence working two full time jobs close to five years straight. By that time I wanted to get another R Model Mack kit and the Fruehauf dump trailer but I wasn't verse w/ model/toy shows or clubs and I looked for years w/ no luck. About six years ago I was injured on the job that put me on workers comp for about 8 months. Exploring the internet I found ebay and that's what did it. Since then I've been building models.
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Sign of the times?
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to Joe Handley's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
What's goin' on... I think K-Mart's using that in their commercials as a sales ploy. W/ all the chaos in the financial world and credit becoming more harder to obtain I can easily see layaway making a big come back (considering several companies have done away w/ that over the years.) I'm 36 years and I can remember my folks using it back when I was a young kid. When Super Shops Performance stores were still around they too had layaway programs. When sales were going on I'd get about $2,000.00 worth of go fast parts ( Erson Mallery ect ect brands) for the Chevelle and put them on layaway. The sale would still be validated during the pay off period. When the Mr.Gasket/companies bought out the chain of Super Shops I ###### near cryed because Jeg's wouldn't do that. -
What's goin' on... Next on the work bench is Revell's 69 Nova. On this I'm doing a two tone paint job solid yellow flames on black. Originally I was going to use the AMT 69 Chevelle however this kit seems to be on the endangered species list. These days the 69 Nova is everywhere so this is the perfect candidate to use and to boot it'll probably look really cool if the flames work out!!! To start I used Tamiya yellow and painted the front 2/3s of the body. When dry the flames will be drawn and then it'll a coat of liquid mask. As soon as that drys out I'll use Testors (black handled) exacto knife and scribe around the flames and put the first coat of gloss black. Below is the first W.I.P. pic and then a "VERY" quick drawing of how I was thinking about doing the flames. You experienced fellas at painting I'd like to have your opinion and advice if I'm going about this the best way. Thanks for looking!!!
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What's goin' on... Well Done!!! You've done a superb job detailing the engine/compartment.
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AMT 359
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to Outlaw's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
What's goin' on... As you've probably read the Cummins in early Petes can be painted either white or tan. The transmissions can be matte black, semi gloss black,rust/brown, and even gunmetal. I prefer to use tan for the engine and rust for the trans. -
Porsche 356a 1500gs Carrera Speedster-Rear brake lines!
Semi Trailer Mechanic replied to simonr's topic in WIP: Model Cars
What's goin' on... Simon WELL DONE!!! -
What's goin' on... There's a reason other than the obvious I put that there. In 1990 (I was 18 years old) a friend of mine and I painted my old (1:1) 1970 Chevelle that I sold last year. It sat in his garage a week after it was painted. He gave me a call and said come over here were gonna put the bumpers and grill on the car. I hauled ass over there and I pulled it out took all the masking paper off. I pulled the car out on the road and started burning the tires off then laid posi tracks at least 40 yards long. I drove down the road (no grill or bumpers) and came back. I was as happy as a virgin in a whore house w/ a fist full of 50's when I got out of the car. By that time there were a few other friends there and they said nice job ya jackass I said hell yeah did ya see that and they pointed to the quarters and there was rubber all over one week old fresh white paint! LOL