Longbox55

Hey kevin, count me in on this! Would've posted earlier, but I just couldn't come up with any ideas on which kits to use, and only really had a build idea for War. But I've hit on something that works with kits that have been residing in "gonna build it someday Purgatory" . And it turns out that they are 4 of the most evil, balked at, considered "unbuildable" kits ever made on top of it!

I might get in on that if we do. I have a gluebomb '68 that was originally built as the tow truck I rebuilding. Didn't get the regular bed, and it had the optional engine from the old IMC '48 Ford in it, plus 3 of the Hurst wheels from the same kit. If the years get bumped up, I also have a '69, 2 AMT '72s, an MPC longbed Stepside '72, plus a couple of Blazers (one original, one Model King reissue) and a pair of GMCs.

OK, you asked!

The Z/28 is easy, there was only 1 engine used, the 302 smallblock with a 4 speed manual. That engine was exclusive to the Z/28, not used anywhere else. The SS models required a V8, the 350 was the base engine, with the 396 as an option. It should be noted, the 396 was SS only. The RS was mainly a trim package, and was available with any engine, exept for the 302 and 396 unless combined with the Z/28 or SS package. In those cases, only the RS grille and dress up parts were used, the Z/28 and SS badges took the place of the RS markings. I do know that at least 1 COPO ZL-1 Camaro was equipped with the RS package. Other engines available in the '69 Camaro were the 230 and 250 6 cylinders, 307 and 327 smallblocks, and of course the COPO 427s. The COPO cars were sold through several dealers, including Yenko, Baldwin-Motion, Dana-Nickey, and Fred Gibb. There may be a few others, but those are the most well known. To my knowledge, all the COPO 427s were the coupe body, mostly with base trim.

Both steering wheels are correct for the '69 SS Camaro. The top one was the standard SS wheel, the wood rim wheel was the option.

But did you see who won at Pheonix yesterday?

It doesn't have to be model specific, but it does have to be plastic freindly. Some types of primer are too hot for use on styrene, they'll actually melt the plastic, causing crazing anf etching of the surface. Rustoleum is one to avoid, as it is very bad about doing that. Duplicolor is the popular choice, I use it myself, in both spray cans as well as their Paint Shop premix in quarts. I also use Valspar tractor primer from the local TSC, which also works very well. The hobby primers do have their places, though. I find that Tamiya primer works best for doing small parts and figures, I keep a few cans on hand just for that.

I find the same. On some plastics, there's also an issue of the draft lines from the casting process showing up in the finish if it's sprayed on directly. Priming will prevent that.

I have to be at work at 7:30, go figure.

I prefer Vise Grips, but the principle is the same. And X2 on the don't squeeze too hard.

I dug out my Merc to get a good look at the parts, looks to be a mix to me, a Playstation 2 console, but the controller looks more X Box to me. It looks nothing like any of my PS2 or PS3 controllers. BTW, I am NOT a hater when it comes to the consoles. Both are good sytems.

The MPC Dodge didn't come with any of the stock drivetrain parts, other than the basic engine block. However, as mentioned, the stock suspension components from the LRE or any of the other MPC Dodge trucks will directly fit the chassis. Something of note, this kit is esentially a monster truck version of the Rolling Thunder pulling truck MPC released in the early '80s, using the same hood, intake, headers, and the front brush guard.

I've been making my own decals for a few years, mostly stock car stuff and license plats/small decals using an inkjet printer. I've ben using Testors/Sure Thing and Supercal paprers, with decent results, other than some transparency using clear film and the dreaded "crakling" when printing black. Well, I've recently aquired a laser printer, and am wondering what brand paper is preferred by those that use a laser printer for making them.

The AMT "Rides" version of the '49 Merc (the one with the big wheels on it) has just what you're looking for. There's also a small flatscreen TV in the kit as well.

Same here. BTW, I have a few of those sets form Lowes, the handle isn't as bad as one would think.

If you're doing a late model, the coolant may not necessarily be green. GM from about '96-current is a pinkish orange, '01- current Fords and most Chryslers '01-'06-ish, as well as Mercedes-Benz use a gold coolant, later Chryslers use a red coolant. Toyota uses pink, and I've seen a medium blue coolant in late model Hondas. Aftermarket "mix with any color" antifreeze tends to be a greenish/gold clor, depending on brand. It's close to the old style green, but with a more yellow tone to it. If you get into performance aftermarket, Evans Waterless is purple. Same goes for washer fluid, it's not all blue. in northern climaes, there's an anti-ice washer fuid that's pink, plus there's also a green washer fluid that's about the color of Slime tire sealant for cleaning bug guts off. That's usually sold in the south, but I've seen it up here, too.

DOT 5 will brobably not do anything to it, as it is silicone based. That's why the motorcycle guys use it, it won't damage their high dollar paint jobs like glycol base DOT 3 and 4 will.

Revell kit number 85-4295 is the same as the 85-2069, only difference is the box and maybe the decals. It is currently available.

Hmm, intersting. Both issues of that kit that I've had, which were produced about 15 or so years abairt for each other, have the same bowed out condition in the body.

I just pulled out that exact '56 Chevy kit to tinker with. Is it just me, or does every issue of that kit have a warped body that bows out in the middle?

That's actually one of my absolute favorites! That one and it's '55 and '56 brothers, and all of the other opening everything Revell kits. Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment?

Testors Model Master Interior Metallic Blue from their military line is pretty close to the AMC color, too.

I considered it, even had a few ideas (which I plan to build anyway), but decided not to. I have enough trouble getting the builds for myself done, let alone a build for a contest. Besides, I'm one of the Gearz "old timers", and am pretty close to some of the staff that works for Stacey.

The truck is basically OOB, no major alterations to the body/frame/engine other than the ladder rack and rear bunper. I also swapped the wheels with the DOH Roscoe Monaco, I felt they worked better with the truck. I made the lisence plates (1978 Illinois) and side logos myself. I will admit to the side logo being from a video game, but I did alter the colors. Eventually, this truck will end up in a service station diorama.