Longbox55

XJ6, you are correct, Turtle Wax is the brand, not the product. Paint definetly will not stick well to wax.

I'm not familiar with the hobby rubbing compounds, but many of the 1:1 rubbing compounds (I use Turtle Wax and Maguires) are paintable. It should say on the package as to whether it can be painted over or not.

I don't beleive the issue with the "aligator" look in the black parts is necessarily due to low ink levels, but rather due to using an inkjet printer. Every time I've ever done any decals with black in the, even with a new black cartridge, they do the same thing. It also did not matter what brand paper I used (I've used Testors, Sure thing, and Supercal papers). I've also heard reports from others having the same problem. Laser is definetly the way to go if there's black involved.

There was also a "Joe-Verhaulin' " CBP started by Joe Chernauskas on another site that was a similar concept. Never got around to building mine, got to complicated with my nutty ideas for the build.

To my knowledge, there aren't any wheels like that available. The only wheels i can think of for a truck of that vintage are the 18" duallie wheels from the old Jada and Welly tow trucks. You're not too far off as to what the wheel for the single rear wheel truck looks like, however, it is a split rim, instead of a drop center style. There is a gutter with a lock ring that runs around the outside perimiter of the wheel. The duals were similar, plus they had 17 and 15 inch versions for the 3/4 ton. There are also a few other differences, as you have noted, the 3/4 and 1 tons are 8 lug, instead of 6 like the 1/2 tons. The hubcap is also larger. A good starting point to make some would be these http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41698. You would just need to add the lock ring details. Here's a pic shwing what they should look like http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/elam_mike_1953.html

Hmm. I didn't realize that RPM had sold off the Bondo-Dynatron division.

Definetly not the same as Testors Red. Testors red is the same as the regular Bondo Glazing Putty, which is a single component putty, rather than 2 part. Something some of you out there may not know, Dynatron, which is the parent company of Bondo, is also the parent company of Testors.

The only thing I can say about not using primer with the Testors Laquers is that some platics do react with it. Nothing serious, but I have had a few times where the draft lines in the plastic will show up in the finish. Older AMT plastic seems to do it the worst, especially if a metallic color is used.

I would just stick with the front axle that's already in the Fakk Guy kit, the Dana 44 and frtont axle version of the 10 bolt are fairly close in appearance, with only a slight difference in the cover shape and the tie rod. Everyhting else directly interchanges. For the 14 bolt, the closest I've seen in scale is the rear axle from the old Monogram Chevy and GMC 4x4s from the '70s. It's not 100% accurate, but the basic shape is there.

I beleive that they do contain all the same parts as the last issue of that kit. Only difference is the box and Coke decals.

Exactly. It would be a great excuse to bring back the old ex-MPC late '60s/early '70s Chevy with the tow truck parts .

Going to have to get one of those! Perhaps they'll consider doing similar conversions on some of the other vintage pickups in the Round 2 catalog. Maybe mix it up a bit, instead of a push bumper, perhaps a snowplow? Or maybe a basic pickup bed tow rig?

OK. Just noticed the mention of Cragars, wanted to pass the info along. I would consider jumping in on this, if it weren't for all the other projects I have going on! Might take a look in my stash, I may have a project or so that will work. If I find something, I'll let you know.

Just a note for authenticies sake, Cragars won't fit into the pre-1960 part of the build. Cragar didn't start manufacturing wheels until mid-'64.

The correct axle would the the 8.5 GM corporate 10 bolt up front (Dana 44 was the HD option after 1977, std axle pre-'77) and the 9.5 GM semi float 14 bolt in the rear ('81 and later). The HD option would have been the the 10.5 GM 14 bolt full floater or a Dana 70 full float. The Dana 70 was mainly used on duallies w/pickup bed and tow truck chassis.

Sounds like the Badger can might have more pressure that the Testors. When you shoot it throuhg the airbrush, it's casuing a temperature drop due to the pressure change, similar to how the AC in your 1:1 car or house central air works. You may need a regulator, or perhaps try using it at room temp, instead of warming the can.

Nice looking build. Don't see to many done with 1:32 scale '55. On a side note, there were actually 2 cars built for Two Lane Blacktop. One, the primary car from what i understand, is still in the same condition as it was in the movie. It is currently owned by the son of the original builder. I beleive it was the 454 car. The other, which has an L-88 427 in it, was the one that was repinted into the Grafitti '55. Last it was heard from was that it's in New Jersey, got "restored" (most of the movie parts removed, red interiro installed) and has not been licensed or registered snce 1985.

Tell me about it. At 6'4" and 300 pounds, I don't fit in them, either. S2000s are a little bit better, but still tight.

This sounds like an interesting topic. Some things are a given, like the reason a given kit or subject get reissued. Simply put, sales. If a given kit or subject matter is a hot seller, it makes sence to keep it out there, perhaps with refreshening to keep it up to date (especially with the custom parts). Another reason you see so many retooling or new tooling of a given subject also falls under sales, but also the manufacturers are looking at what's going on with the 1:1 car world. Tri-Five Chevies, Mustangs, '69 Camaros are all hot items in the 1:1 world, as are Donks, Rat Rods, Muslcears. For the most part, mainstreamers are, well, boring. While you will always see the "why don't they make this, the real ones sell like hotcakes" question pop up, just because a car sells wel in the real world doesn't necessarily mean that a scale replica will do the same. Take the #1 selling car in the world, the Toyota Camry. There are no kits of this car, not even the Sport model (which is an awesome looking car, BTW). I have a good freind that's wants one, as he builds the real ones for a living. If the model manufacturers saw that they could make a profit from tooling one up, they would. OK, now that I've said that, I do like how things have gone from a "Box Store Mentality" on what subjects are to be done, and we are starting to see more unusual kits comming out (Loanstar, Hudson Hornet), so perhaps we may see more mainstreamers in the future. On another part of you post, I suppose with older tooling of what could be considered a good seller can fall into a few catagories; 1- the tool is worn out/damaged/lost, which would prevent reissue. 2- the original isse was a poor seller. If they had a bad experience the first time out, the bean counters will be hesitant to reissue, even though there's countless modellers asking for a reissue. Good example, the Ertl tractor kits. As Art has stated, they were poor sellers originaly. Granet, if you look at the many times it's been mentioned (I've even mentioned it) that they should be reissued, and Ebay prices are atronomical (especially for the Massey-Ferguson), it really doesn't make sence to reissue something that has a limited market. 3- The tool has simply been forgotten. Maangement/employess change over the years. Records get mixed up/lost. The tools could simply be in that box all the way in the back, you know, the one that the label isn't legible anymore. No one knows what's in it, and they don't want to open it either. Then some manager decides to clean up the "clutter", and then it falls under "tooling lost" catagory. Fortunatly, it seems more and more old tooling is getting found and refurbished. Oh, and yes, I would LOVE to poke around in the storerooms!

Duplicolor. I use it almost exlusvely, regardless of what the topcoat will be. I mainly use the sandable type, which allows for sanding the primer to a smooth finish, which makes for a better paint finish. I've also used the Color Shop primer from Duplicolor. It comes in a quart can, prethinned for spraying. Very economical if you have an airbrush, though you may consider thinning it a bit more than how it comes. Valspar also has a decent primer in their tractor paint line (yes, tractor paint). I get at the local TSC.

1; I would say in the sun, rather than air conditioning. You want the solvents to gas out, cooler air will slow this. Many builder use a modified food dehydrator, cutting the trays to allow a body to fit inside. This speeds up the process and is more controllable. Thinner coats with proper flash time in between will dry faster than heavier coats. Also, details don't get buried. 2: really can't give you an answer on this one, I only use enamel or laquer for spraying. I would think if the processes were otherwise the same, shouldn't make a difference in final shine. 3; Sometimes metallics need to be stirred more than solids. You may also have gotten a jar that's old stock, may just need more stirring. I know some guys use blue windsheild washer fluid to thin acrylics. I've actually tried this, though I didn't spray it, it does work well. The blue coloring doesn't affect the final color. 4; You could use either a clear pearl topcoat, or add dry pearl powder to the final coats of paint and the clear. I've done this as well, works very well. 5; depends on the subject, color, and paint type. I usually average about 2 coats of color with solids, 3-4 with metallics. Kandies depend on how deep I want the finish to be. It should be noted, some paints do cover differently from others, base color of the plastic and primer color also come into play. I personally use Testors enamels (jar, mostly Model Master), Testors Laquer/One Coat, Tamiya Laquer Sprays, Duplicolor touch up sprays,and Kustom Kolor (jar and spray). I pretty much use Duplicolor primer, though some projects get Tamiya primer. I do have some Tamiya jar acrylics, but I use them mostly for figure painting (custom action figures, recent hobby I've gotten into) and have not attempted to spray them. For dry powder for pearl/metallic effects, I've been using Pearl-X for Jaquard with very good results. Some care has to be used, as the chunkier pearls tend to clog airbrushes if the tip is too small.

OK, I'll give you that. From the research I've done, it seems that anything that didn't require engineering changes, like the 427 cars, didn't get assigned a COPO number. They were processed through the same channels, though. I did find another COPO code for the '69 Camaro, though, 9737 Sports Car Kit. The description was somewhat vague, as it was lumped in with the 9561 description, but it basically amounts to the Z-28 15" wheels, tires, and front sway bar. It appears to have been at least an SS396 option.

Sure there is. Not all COPO cars are performance models. Take the Indy Pace Car '67 and '69 Camaros, those are both COPO cars. Or even more mundane, a group of delaers in a given area ordering a location specific variant, perhaps with a special color not usually found, but otherwise a regular production car. Something similar to that happened here about 15 years ago. A few local dealers got together and had a run of C1500 W/T trucks made in a Teal Metallic, which was at the time, a Beretta only color. Other than the color, they were basic W/T trucks, V6, grey interior (IIRC, they all had the cloth upgrade) regular steelies with trim rings.

That's not really correct. In the case of a COPO car, which stands for Central Office Production Order, they were in fact factory built cars. Sometimes, it could just be a special run of a non-stock color, like for fleet use (very common on trucks), or cars equipped a certain way for police or taxi use. Other times, it was a performance package, with special engines not normally found, plus suspension packages, brakes, etc. But these cars wre certainly not just "add on stickers and go fast goodies", they were factory built, not dealer. What you're thinking of are the dealer built cars, like the Baldwin-Motion, pre-'68 Yenkos, Grand Spaulding Dodge, and probably several others I can't think of at the moment. In those cases, the dealer would take a stock car and modify it. Even then, those cars were a step above the stock offering, and can be rare. I suppose I can see where one can think that COPO cars and dealer altereds are the same thing, as many of them (Yenko and Baldwin Motion) used a COPO as the base, then altered it from there.

In stock form, going in a straight line, if it can get traction on those skinny bias plys, maybe. Get to the first turn, sorry, COPO loses. Skinny bias ply tires and stock steering geometry and brakes really put the Musclecars at a disadvantage to the much lighter imports with 4 wheel disk brakes and modern radial performance tires. If you upgrade the suspension and tires, and adjust the suspension for handling, then sure, the Musclecar can win with raw power. But then it is no longer a stock vehicle. While I personally own US built vehicles (an S-10 built in Saginaw and a '55 Chevy 3200 built in Baltimore), I've worked on enough vehicles built all over the world to see which are really the best. To be honest, the Japanese and even Korean cars are every bit as good as the US brand. Note I said "brand", because as mentioned earlier by several posters, you really have to look to see where a car was really made. If you look, you'll find that many so-called "domestic" vehicles aren't built here, and that the "imports" are built here.