Longbox55

Not really much difference other than the shape and location of the side badging. Here's a good place to see the differences in them. http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery60-66.htm

Something I've discovered that helps prevent that, or takes the film off if it does dry on the plastic, is a quick soak in 91% alcohol. I use Super Clean for most of my stripping chores, so far, it's never failed me.

I have one of those on the compressor in the big garage, well worth it. It's not only a drier, but also a coelescing filter, which removes both water and oil from the air. I originally got one for painting a 1:1 truck, but have a second one that's going to be installed in the small garage where my hobby room is. BTW, I'm partial to the Norbie Method myself, as it works very well for me. I've even used it painting parts for my 1:1 '55 Chevy truck.

I don't beleive Darin is saying the car itself is "correct" to any period, but rather than the parts on the car are correct to provide a conversion in to a different car, namely the American Graftti '32 Ford.

Never said it had a Big Block. I said that it's intended to beat the big blocks.

That is correct. The intent is not that it's a "rat" as in "rat rod", but rather that it's a Rat, as in Big Block Chevy, Roaster, as in beat them in a drag race. The theme of the build is to be a circa-'68 hot rod, fastest car in the valley, and to beat the musclecars. BTW, the car has a 100% steel body, no fiberglass, It's a Brookville body and chassis, with a functional rumble seat.

I kept the weathering light on this one, just a bit of dirt and grime (artists chalk) on the body/wheels/frame, plus some grunge from a previous load in the bed. This truck is not intended to be a well kept or restored truck, but rather a truck that's only maybe a year old or so, as it's going to end up in a diorama set at that time period. Here's a shot from the back. It's hard to make out, but it does have a '78 Illinois plate on it. On the other hand, this one just got back from the mud pit. The mud is a mix of Polly S and Woodland Scenics.

Got it. Took me a bit to find the tag from the snowplow I got from them. It's LSN Scaled FX. Their email is LSN.ENTERPRISE@Yahoo.com. I have seen the cab and bed in person, they are very nice. The cab is a 4 door crew cab, though, instead of an extended cab.

You'll probably want to prime the body with either a gray or white primer first.

I did notice one thing that stuck out to me, besides the rusted fiberglass. The 5 lug wheels. '70 and earlier 1/2 ton Chevies were 6 lug.

I havent had any problems with the tesotrs decal paper ether, other than the cracking when printing black, though that's a common issue with any inkjet decal paper. All 3 of these were done using Testors decal paper, the Sure Thing program (I did get the upgrade program), and were printed using a Hewlet-Packard Deskjet F335. BTW, the Monte Carlo is painted with Testors bottle paint on the lower portion.

Here's a shot of it from the back.

If they do a Corvair 95, maybe someone will build this!

The L-88 was actually the first release of that tool. It's had the extra incorrect badging from day one, the Motion car came out much later, after the Tri-Power '69 coupe and the blown street machine versions were out. The Motion car also has a dfferent hood, with the '67 Stinger scoop on it. As far as scripts go, MCG does have a PE kit with all the proper badging. It should be noted, the "Stingray" badging on the front fenders was not used on the '68s, that started in '69 and was only used to '76.

X2 on Duplicolor. Try O'Reilleys or Advance Auto, they seem to have the most selection in the Duplicolor line. I have seen a blue that's pretty close to the color you're looking for, I don't recal the exact name of the color off the top of my head, though. Another option might be Tamiya TS-19, which is also very close, perhaps a shade darker. Seasn's suggestion is also a good one, however, you'll want to check with youre local body shop supplier before you commit to purchasing paint from them, as some will not mix anything smaller than a pint. My local paint store has that policy. Also, in some places (I don't think it's an issue in Illinois), auto body paint stores will not sell to the average guy off the street, due to EPA regulations. Again, that will vary by location and paint store.

No, but there is a version of the Cabriolet that has plenty of hot rod parts in it. The last issue of that kit, in the AMT "Connesuer Classics" series had them. It also has a different fender unit from the stock only issue that did not have molded in spare tire wells.

If you're replicating one from the original show, the correct color is GM code 70 Flame Red, a '75 Corvette color, Lee 1, 2, and 3 were this color. The Georgia cars after Lee 3 were Hemi Orange, but after production moved to California, they went back to Flame Red. Lee 1 had the Flame Red aplied directly over the factory T3 Light Bronze Metallic, later cars used a basecoat to prevent the blochiness and to get a consistant color.

Not that I'm aware of. However, if you need reference material for one Jolly Goodfellow's (yes, that' his real name) site is the best one out there. http://www.6066gmcguy.org/

At first glance, the two engines are similar in appearance, but once you look closer, there are many differences both internal and external. The GMC engine is about 2 1/2 inches longer, with different manifolds to match. The oil filter is also in a different location, mounted on the passenger side at the front of the block, instead of on the front part of the intake manifold (trucks only). I beleive that the filter, while still a bypass style, was standard equipment on the GMC, Internally, the GMC was more robust, with larger crankpins and full pressure lubrication. Chevrolet didn't get full pressure oiling until the '53 Powerglide cars, manual transmission cars and trucks got it in '54. The GMC also had a better breathing head with a better combustion chamber. Some even had hemispherical combustion chambers in '41.

Or even the state of Illinois in general for that matter.

Ahh, yes, Heavy Metal. That one is gong to fall in with the "monster truck" catagory with Sgt. Rock.

Not necessarily. I have a hobby shop about 45 miles away from me that has a good stock of OOP kits, some even dating back to the late '70s. I also run across OOP kits at the 1:1 car shows I go to, in most cases, the seller will let you inspect the kits before you purchase, something you can't do online.

The engine in the 1500 is a 5.3 LS series engine, the 6.0 in the larger trucks is identical externally. Something that should be mentioned, there were actually two different versions of the 2500, a light duty (introduced in '99) and the heavy duty (2500 HD, introduced in '01). The light duty 2500 uses the same sheetmetal as the 1500, the 2500 HD uses the same sheetmetal as the 3500. The basic difference between the 2500 HD and the 3500 are the dual wheels on the rear, which is standard equipment on them (singles were a delete option, though). All versions of the 2500, 2wd, 4x4, light or heavy duty, do use the torsion bar suspension, rather than the coil spring 2wd suspension found in the 1500 kit. This also applies to the Tahoe and Suburbans built on the GMT800 platform.

Gearz covers a little bit of everything, from Smallblock Chevy Powered barstools (Barfly) all the way up to monster trucks (Sgt. Rock). I beleive they went with the hot rod theme partly because the car that was being built at the time (IIRC, the payoff was in shortly after the contest announcement) was the Rat Roaster, a '32 Ford roadster hot rod.

From what I can find, they're parts to the MPC Boss Bike. http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/instruction_sheets/mpc-4/mpc-boss-bike-wild-/scan0046.html#media As to why they're in Ice Cycle kit, I have no idea, as I'm not really familiar with either kit.