Longbox55

Paashe H or V, depending on wheather you want single or double action. I personally prefer a compressor with a tank, bigger the better (I use my compressor for other duties, like inflating tires and running air tools, though). Don't overlook the Harbor Freight Central Pneumatic airbrushes, either. They're actually pretty decent for the price.

The better stocked hobby shops usually have at least one of the lines of casting supplies. Try Hobbytown, most of them carry both Alumilite and Smooth-On. Hobby Lobby also caries Alumilite, usually located in their train section.

If the truck is an Ertl Big Farm Silverado, it's 1/16 scale, a common size for farm toys.

Sweet. Glad to see it getting reissued, as it's the only one I don't have of the new tool Tri-5s.

Something you need to keep in mind, this kit was originally tooled in 1977, so it's not up to todays detail standards. It was originally released as the Captain Hook in black. This was mentioned in every reveiw of this kit. If you want to build a good version of this truck, do like I'm doing with the last issue, put the bed on the other GMC truck that Revell has coming out (the one with the plow). It's a much better kit.

Vintage Truck, Antique Power, Heritage Iron, Oliver Heritage, Ol' Skool Rodz, Kar Kulture Deluxe, Hot Rod DeLuxe, Traditional Rod and Kulture, Scale Auto, and MCM.

The carbon black isn't added to make the tires a particular color, but rather to improve the durability of the rubber for a longer wearing tire.

That would be much easier to do, only needing the hood, grille, and hubcaps altered.

With the number of differences between a '62 and '64 pickups, it would be easier to tool a new kit that try to back date the '64. Only interchaneable parts would be the hood, bed, and engine, everyhting else is different.

Something to add to this, GMC used a hemi head on their 224-270 truck engines from '39-'54, in 2 different configurations, a small port and a large port.

I voted for Jesse's bike, as I felt it was was in the spirit of what a bike buildoff should be, a motorcycle. It's a clean, understated design, not a gaudy "look. I'm a motocycle trying to be an airplane" like Paulies, or whatever that thing Seniors guys built.

You have it wrong. It's the Exides that are junk. We sold Exides for a while back in '94-'96, every single one of them came back bad within 6 months. Went back to selling JCI batteries, and we haven't had near as many warrantee issues.

I do the same thing, exept I'm a little further away from Indy.

How would that make a tire look flat? That sounds more like making a tire look ground off.

I stopped at the Hobby Lobby in Champaign IL while I out Christmas shopping, picked up an AMT '62 Electra (30% off), a WW2 Maisto 1/24 Harley, and Flex-I-File kit (40% off coupon). I also it Slot & Wing Hobbies, which si the only real hobby shop in my area. Not much in their scratch and dent area, but i did get the currect release of the AMT '50 Chevy pickup and Revell '57 Bel Air sedan. Howver, while I was there, I noticed a stack of 4 older kits on the counter. Wasn't sure if they were for sake or not, so as i was leaving, i asked. they said that they were bought froma fellow who was moving, and that they had also got a bunch of train stuff from him, too. After a little looking for rough pricing, we came up with $75 (plus tax) for the whole lot. So I also came home with a 4 '70s vintage kits, a Monogram '41 Lincoln continental, a JoHan '31 Cadillac Cabriolet, and 2 MPC Connoissuer Classics, the '32 LeBaron Chrysler Imperial, and a 1914 Stutz Bearcat, all in the original boxes and complete, other than the Caddy missing the instruction sheet.

If you need references for a replica stock version (or even a custom or hot rod), check this site out. http://www.stovebolt.com/

That's pretty much what I'm thinking. They also probably just put the lug nuts on with a 4 way, rather than torquing them with a torque wrench like you're supposed to do.

Oh, and the Hemi Hydro is a very nice kit. Well detailed. The engine is the same as the Hemi in the Miss Deal Studebaker.

Sadly, we have no flea markets in my area. Closest I get to a flea market is hitting the 1:1 car shows/swap meets in Indy. BTW, Revell must have thought the same thing you did, as they did offer a combo kit with the '65 Chevy Stepside and the Hemi Hydro.

The '55 has an incorrect upward slant to the lower window sill. This same arror shows up on many of the diecasts of the '55-'59 Cgevy trucks, too. The '57 kit has that corrected, IIRC, later issues of the '55 have the corrected cab as well.

I've thought about trying that. Might give it a whirl if I come across a project that needs letters that size. On the putty tip, I'll add one of my own. I like to sand/file the edge of the peice I'm using as a speader so that it has a bevel to it. I use a roughly 15 to 25 degree angle when i do that. Makes for a more precise tool for applying the putty, as it makes it more like a 1:1 putty squeegee.

Whatever you do, DO NOT PUT IT IN THE PURPLE POND! Those type cleaners will dissolve the metal, mainly the aluminum in the alloy.

I've been using Pearl Ex powders, too. Love 'em. Here's a couple of mine I used them on, both were finished with enamel paints as well. Beleive it or not, both of these cars are actually the same color! It started out as Model Master Kiln Red (no longer made). The Skyline is based with Buff BPS tractor primer, the paint itself was mixed roughly 70/30 with Boyd Alumacoupe Yellow, with a healthy dose of Sparkle Gold, Interference Gold, and Sunset Gold. The whole mix was then cut 50% with straight clear. The Sprinter is just the Kiln Red, mixed with Sparkle Copper and Brilliant Copper, again cut 50% with straight clear, then shot over BPS Allis-Chalmers Orange tractor paint. Neither car has been polished. The only issue I've had using Pearl Ex is that some of the chunkier colors do not spray well through an airbrush.

I've never had a problem with either, exept the one time I tried to use it as a base for a topcoat other than Alclad (lifted horribly). I have found that applying it using the Norbie Technique (Low Pressure, In Close To Surface) works very well in getting the smooth finish needed for the Alclad to do its thing. Same method also is ideal for applying the Alclad Chrome, just cut the pressure back from 12 psi to no more than 5-10 psi.

Using Station Wagon springs was another popular way to get the front end up.