Longbox55

They're far more toxic after being refined. Also, most of the petroleum products are located very deep in the ground, usually well below the water table. By dumping it on the surface, you're putting it right into the water table, even if it seems far enough away from the actual pumping point.

Dumping it is still dumping, regardless of amount. Are you on city water, or a well? If you're on a well, and you're dumping thinner/brake fluid/whatever, that's going to go right into the water table. If you're on a well, that's right into your drinking water. Diluting wiht with "a bunch of water" and "dumping over the fence" doesn't change things either. It really shocks me how many on here dump their chemicals like that. Do any of you do the same with your motor oil and antifreeze from your 1:1?

Exactly. It's also the reason that more than likely, the other parts packs will not get reissued.

If you have ANY auto repair or car parts stores in your area, the are required by law to take ANY AND ALL automotive waste products for recycling. This includes oil, antifreeze, amd brake fluid. There's really no exuse.

There's actually a reason that you see so many of them in that particular shade of green, it was the standard color for Chevrolet trucks from '47 to at least the late '70s. The color went by several names over the years, Juniper Green, Forester Green, and Holly Green are a few examples. Other colors were available as a no cost RPO (single colors only).

I've been a member there since '06. I've become one of the "Go To Guys" when someone asks about a '55-'59 Task Force (my main area of expertise) , serial number decoding, or help with the old 3 speed overdrives. I was just looking the kit over, there's no vent windows in the kit. However, i did spot that the box art does have them. Minor error on the part of the artist.

I'm with you on that, Ed. One thing, though, the Olds you saw at Napa is not the Ertl diecast. It's an Action '49 Olds. The car itself is part of their 50th anniversary Nascar series, sold only through Napa. The Olds is a replica of Red Byrons car, who was the first Nascar Champion. It's a very nice peice. Back on topic, that's a sweet ride you've made from that Ertl Olds, Jeff.

Not all Micheal's carry them. The one near me doesn't anymore (they used to), and they weren't on their site last time I checked. Hobby Lobby also used the carry the full line, but now only seem to carry 4 colors (micro pearl, macro pearl, Antique Silver, and one of the golds) in the 4 ounce bottle. Nice thing, though, is that a little goes a long way. I will partially disagree with Donn about mixing in paints other than clear. I have had very good success with mixing in transparent colors to get pearl/metallic finishes. The color does have to be very transparent for it to work and not lose the effect. So far, all the times I have done this, it's been in Testors enamels, always a metallic or pearl color, cut 50% with straight Testors Boyd clear. Not wanting start any arguments or anything, only relaying my own experiences.

Direct reading TPMS became mandated for any '08 and newer vehicle. Earlier vehicles could have either direct reading (either valve stem or band style) or ABS reading (not very accurate). It is illegal to remove the TPMS from any vehicle using the direct reading style, with the following exeption; If the vehicle is equiped with aftermarket wheels that will not accept the sensor. However, with the senors available now, there's no reason to do even that, as they're readily available to fit any wheel. Personally, i find them to be a PITA, especially when one get broken dismounting a tire or when they don't want to reset.

Not to be a spoil-sport, but they never made the Advance Desgn trucks with a 8 foot box. The closest would be the 3604 3/4 ton, which has a 7 1/2 foot box, or the 3804 1 ton, which is a 9 foot box. The 8 foot box wasn't available until midyear '57 on the 3234 (1/2 ton), 3634 (3/4 ton), and 3684 (3/4 ton 4x4). However, if you are looking for a 1:1 AD truck, here's a good place to check. (apologies if this against forum rules)http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=14&page=1

That's the one big drawback of the HF airbrush. I have never had problems shooting metallics through them, though. Also, I agree with Dave, the MM Laquers spray very well, as do their Tamiya conterparts. I never decant them, shoot them right out of the can.

It would depend on what state, not all states do annual vehicle inspecions these days (Illinois doesn't, exept for a few metropolatin areas like Chicago and E.St. Louis).

Not all new Rams have that. I just had a '12 Ram 2500 in the shop, it had a regular column shifter. Personally, I'll stick with my column shifted 3 speed manual w/ Borg-Warner overdrive.

There was a narrow step bumper and a narrow version of the regular bumper in the '70/'80s in addition to the wider bumper in both styles. Then there were all the aftermarket bumpers, usually dealer installed, as the rear bumper was not a standard item, it was an option well into the '80s. It wasn't uncommon to see new trucks come into the dealer with no rear bumper. Some dealers used factory bumpers, some sold aftermarket bumpers, like the Barton or Winchester (yes, the rifle company). Here's a few brochure pix showing some of the different bumpers used on the '73-'87 Stepsides.

I beleive this one would qualify as the most tooled. George, as far as i know, there were no 1/25 or 1/25 plastic kits of the '57 Chevy convertible. The only plastic kit I know of is the old 1/16 AMT kit.

SRT is alive and well, and still part of Chrysler. http://www.drivesrt.com/ BTW, Hummer was part of GM.

I'll agree with George, the Revell Camaro is a far superior kit. However, to answer the question, the MPC kit has a 396 Big Block Chevy in it.

I'll freely admit, I have never seen the compressor my freind has, I'm only going off what he told me when we were looking at them at HF. However, there very well could be a chance that Iwata outsources their compressors, rather that build their own. That's not really an uncommon practice.

From what I've seen, that may not be a joke. Seems that subject has been on a few boards and new feed for at least the last 2 weeks. I certainly would not put it past Bruton Smith to actually build something like that.

I suppose it would depend on how you're planning to do the paint job. If it's a situation of going directly from one color to the next, extra jars would be the way to go (jars are cheap), giving the airbrush a good flushing between colors. Cleaning isn't really to complicated. Simply fill a jar with the appropriate solvent for the paint you're using (I use laquer thinner), hook it up, then spray until it comes out clear. Once done with painting, tearing down the airbrush to thoroughly clean it inside is a good idea, you'll want to get an airbrush/spray gun cleaning kit to do this. The kit will have the small rifle brushes to get into the small orfices of the tips. Again, relatively cheap and reusable. Something you might check out is Dr Crankys Youtube vids. he's got some very informational vids up showing how to use an aribrush and maintain it.

Got the AMT Tall T, and MPC Fire Truck custom, and a Mobeus Huson (FINALLY!! ). Got a real steal on the Hudson, $10.98! Also picked up the Contest Issue and some G scale railroad stuff for my gas station diorama.

If you don't have a compressor, this one might be the better choice http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/oilless-compressors/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html I have several of this particlur airbrush from Harbor Freight, they work very well. I get good finishes out of them, though they do tend to give grainy finish when using Duplicolor clear. Otherwise, they do great with hobby paints. The only real gripe i have is that they only come with one tip size. Partswise, they're virtually identical in construction to the Badger airbrushes, I beleive even some parts might swap (haven't tried it yet). According to a freind of mine, the compressor in the kit is identical to the Iwata that sells for 3 times as much, and doesn't come with the airbrush.

Here's a few more shots of the front and rear window glass. A shot of the gasket from the inside Rear window (mine is not the stock glass)

I use dose cups for measuring and mixing paint. For thinner, I have used syringes, which work very well. Never had an issue with the plastic clouding, even with laquer thinner. I did have problems with the rubber on the plunger gumming up, though. Anymore, I tend to use the pipettes that Testors sells. You can get them pretty cheap, last time I got some, they were in a set that had 6 1/2 ounce jars w/ lids.

It's a '63-'63 Corvette feul injection, the wide ribbed penum cover is the givaway. That feul injection, and its earlier version were never offered on any GM truck, unless you count the '59 El Camino, which is almost a truck, and the '57-'59 Sedan Delivery, which is included in most truck literature since it's a commercial vehicle.