Longbox55

If you have the white compound, it's the finer of the 2. There is also a rubbng compound paste in a similar can that's more agressive. It is a reddish color, about the same color as red oxide primer, and the can has a red label on it. It is also a dryer compund that the white version.

I use the liquid, I find it a bit easier to work with than the paste. I keep both the rubbing compound (coarser grit) and the polishing compound (fine) on hand.

I use it, works pretty good. I've taken blush out of Duplicolor with it without doing any sanding, brought the shine out right away.

The 502 and 572 are built on the Tall Deck block. Still considered the same engine family. The 366 and 427 Truck engines are also built on the Tall deck block. There were actually 57 of the W427 engine built and installed in Impalas as part of the Z11 package, by NHRA standards, it qualifies as a production engine.

I'm curious, were does it say that the Home Depot air compressor is made in the US? I didn't see anything stating country of origin on their site. I'm inclined to beleive that it's identical internally to the Craftman, probably even comes from the same plant.

They actually make a special extension just for that. It's about 3-4 feet long and is 1/2" drive on one end and 3/8" drive on the other. Works great for doing shocks, too.

The W engine was made as a 427, 1963 only. It was part of the Z-11 package that also included aluminum front fender, hood, battery tray, inner fenders, and front bumper on the Impala for drag racing. There was also a second 427 built that year, the Mark 2 "Mystery Motor", that shares none of it's parts with the earlier Mark 1 W block. The later 427, along with the 366, 396, 430, 454, 488, and the 510 are all Mark 4 engines. There was no Mark 3 other than experimentals. The Mark 5/Gen 5 was only offered as a 454, Gen 6 was built as 454, 502, and the 572. There is also one more that wasn't mentioned, as it was only built for a few years, and only used in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, the 8.1 liter Gen 7. It shares little with the earlier engines, and is closer to a super sized LS block.

Then you have engine like the Pontiac, where there are no "small" or "big" blocks, the blocks are the same on the outside from the little 287 all the way to 455.

Not too bad. A few minor corrections. The "400 Big Block" was actually the 402, it was simply rounded down to 400 for badging purposes. You also missed a few in the Big Blocks, there was also a 366 (Heavy truck), 430, 488, 502, and a 510. The 430, 488, and 510 were strictly aftermarket perfomance engine, the 502, while mainly an aftermarket crate engine, was available as a factory install in the GMC Yukon in 2000 in its 540 horse Ramjet version. On the Small Blocks, you missed the 262 and 267, not really unexpected, as those engines were not produced for very long and were not very common when they were made.

Like some of the other have said, you're going to have a hard time finding a domestically produced air compressor in the price range you've set. You'll also find that many of them, especially in the smaller sizes, are oilless. There isn't a problem with that, unless you run them hard, in which case they don't hold up well. One bit of advise I'll pass along though; Get a compressor that's higher in capacity that what you think you need, double the capacity is a good guideline. You can never go too small with an air compressor.

http://www.munsterkoach.com/dragula1l.htm Scroll to the bottom pic, it shows the sidewall with both stripes the best. Strangely enough, there's an earlier scene where Herman and Grandpa are building the car that shows it with wider blackwalls and different wheels, more like what the car had on the show. Well, at least now I know what I'm putting mine on! Just need to get another Drag-U-La when the single kits come out.

That's when you break out the extensions and swivel sockets.

Depending on what type of paint you used, there's several answers. Superclean, Purple Power, and Dawn Power Dissolver will take off enamels. Use 91% alcohol for laquers.

That's what they make impact guns for.

Generally, you would want to start with the finest grit that will get rid of the imperfections, then go finer from there to get the shine. As to what grit to sttart with? It will depend on what the finish is like. I do tend to agree with Dave, though, 3200 is a good starting point. One tip I'll pass along, the finish will only be as good as what's under it. In order to get the best out of the topcoats, you may want to consider using the polishing kit to do the finish work on the primer. I'm not talking going to a high gloss shine or anything, just getting the base as smooth as possible, say going no more that the 4000 grit. That will go a long way to making the final coats smooth and will reduce the work needed to get a good shine.

I don't know about M&H ever making a tire like that, but Firestone and BF Goodrich made something similar back in '65/'66 fir the Thunderbird. The oem tires on those had a white inner ring with a redline outer ring.

I just got a set myself. Very nice.

Ditto.

Where are you going to be setup?

Which one? There's actually several different Rallye wheels, 2 for cars, plus 2 for trucks. The wheel commonly called the "Rallye" or "Corvette Rallye" is called the Disk Brake Wheel by GM, as that was the original application. Those are pretty common, just about any '67-'70 Corvette kit has them, as do most '67-'69 Camaro kits and many of the Chevelle kits from the same era. The AMT '70 ZR1 has both a set with caps/rings, plus a set bare, the bare set is lacking in depth, though. If you're looking for the Rallye 2, the only kit I can think of that has those off the top of my head is the AMT '72 Nova. There may be others that have them, though. The truck Rallye has only been done on one kit, the Monogram '76 Chevy Stepside 4x4. It is a 15x8 with a 6 lug bolt pattern. The 2wd version is similar, but is narrower, has smaller slots, and is 5 lug.

Ditto that.

I beleive you can use the old warm water trick to soften the resin enough to put it back into shape. However, I would also like to hear from those with resin body experience on straightening bodies, as i have a Time Machine '55 Chevy pickup cab that warped on me, as well as another resin project with a twisted frame and a spread out hood.

I don't see where it would be a problem. I build in my garage, which is insulated, but only heated when I'm working out there. Haven't had any problems myself.

When adding cables, do some research on the 1:1 on how they are routed, especially on where they connect. Generally, the Positive cable will go from the battery terminal to the starter solenoid (GM and most late models)or to the starter relay ('60-'80s Fords as well as '60s MoPars). The Negative will usually connect to the engine block, though sometimes they will attach to the accessory mounting brackets. Again, this will vary. Also, you'll want to verify what BCI group battery a given vehicle takes, as the post configurations will vary by group size. Another thing to keep in mind, especially if you're building pre-'56 vehicles with 6 volt batteries, many of them were also positive ground. They were hooked up reverse of what a modern 12 volt negative ground system is. Fords through '55 6 volt and the '56 Fords with 12 volt were this way, as were GMC 6 volt trucks through '57. One more thing, don't assume that the Positive cable should be red and the Negative should be black. Most oem cables were black on both, and on many older vehicles, they used a braided strap for the ground instead of a cable. Even on late models, only the cover for the terminal end itself is color coded.

Mike pretty much covered the basics, thin paint, low pressure, shot up close. To give you a bit more specifics on it, the paint needs to be rather thin. The paint should be approximatly the same consistancy as 2% milk. Next, the pressure needs to be set very low, around 12 PSI. Next, you need to get in close, as mentioned, 4-6 inches. You also would want to use a light touch, keep the coats thin. That's pretty much it.