Longbox55

GMC did run Oldsmobile flathead 6 cylinder engines pre-WW2, mainly in the lighter trucks (1/2-1 ton), though the Special Delivery used a Buick based ohv 6 cylinder (the Special Delivery was originally a Buick badged vehicle prior to '27). By '41, GMC had their own inline 6 for light trucks, the 228, 248, 270, and 302 engines. When the V8 trucks came out in '55, GMC used Pontiacs, but with the '56 introduction of the Tandem option, they did use Oldsmobile engines in the heavier trucks. The use of Pontiac and Olds engines ceased in '60 when the GMC V6 was introduced. The 270 inline 6 did carry on for a few more years in the Step Vans. For some more details on the differences, here's a link to the '55-'59 GMC Maintainance Manual. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/gmc/5559mm/index.html

You will need to gather up a few extra parts that aren't in the Shawn Carpenter conversion if you're doing a stock GMC. Back then, GMC didn't use Chevrolet engines and axles in their US spec trucks, they had their own engines for 6 cylinder, and used Pontiac engines for the V8 option. The rear axles were Spicer 45s for the 1/2 ton, which is similar to a Spicer 44, and Spicer 60 for 3/4 ton. 1 tons used the the same Eaton HO72 that the Chevy used.

That's the only real gripe I have about any of the Falfa Chevies (I have the Revell and Ertl d/c, plus the Hot Wheels one from a few years ago) is that they replicate the car as it would be "period correct", rather than how the car actually was.Of the two, I give the accuracy nod to the 1:18 Ertl, though, as they got the suspension and the tilt frontend right, where the Revell has the stock suspension and regular style hood.

The frames are similar in basic design, most of the difference is in the suspension mounting, material thickness, and siderail channel depth. You should be able to use the 1500 frame as a base to start from. The pickups never had a factory dual tank option, so the factory tank will be fine. As far as engines go, most 3500s on the GMT800 chassis ('00-'07) used either the Vortec 8100 big block or a Duramax Deisel, neither of which have been done in scale to my knowledge. The Vortec 6.1 did see use in theem as well, and would be virtually identical to the 1500. The transmissions were either the 4L80E (light duty) or the Allison 1000. The 4L80E can be found in the AMT 454SS. Manual transmissions were mostly NV4500. For the front suspension, it follows the same basic layout as the AMT Tahoe, though with forged lower control arms instead of the ealier stamped control arms that the Tahoe has,

The Dodge 330 kit, which is based on the same tooling for the running gear, lists it as a 383 on the box. To be honest, in scale, it's pretty much impossible to tell the difference. At least in this situation, the B and RB engines are of the same block design, unlike when a 216 from a '50 or '51 Chevy kit is used to represent a 235 in a '55 or later Chevy. Those are two completely different engines, with vitually nothing in common other than the brand.

Hey Rommell, we're cool. I wasn't really offend too much, just took it the wrong way. Just for reference for anyone interested, here's a link to Dill Air Controls, one of the largest manufacturers of valve stems for the 1:1 market. http://dillaircontrols.com/files/Snap-in%20Tire%20Valves.pdf These are the common snap in style stems you see on modern cars, say from the '50s to 2007 ('08 and later use the TPMS style stems). The one in the middle that is 1/2 rubber and 1/2 brass is the HD stems used in most later model 3/4 and 1 ton pickups.

About the only parts in common are the basic cab and the bed, depending on model. The entire front clip is different. The bed from the kit could be used with a 2500 extended cab, as the 6.5' bed was available with that cab. The other 2500s and 3500s used the 8' bed. The frame and front suspension are also different, in addition to the rear suspension and axle. The 2500 and 3500 used a torsion bar front suspension w/forged control arms on boht 2wd and 4x4 models. As far as the cab and bed go, I have seen both available in resin, not sure of whe makes them, as i saw them at a show in Indy. I might have the casters name, as i did purchase a few items from him. I think I still have his card. If I find it, I'll let you know.

i feel the same way.

I prefer going to the brick and morter stores, mainly because i like to see the item in person before I buy. There's also perhaps a bit of the thrill of the hunt, as I always thouroughly look over the shelves whe I'm at the shops. I almost always find something that perhaps i wasn't looking for, but would like to have. Since the closest shops to me are either Champaign, IL, or Indianapolis, IN, I tend to make my trips count. In the case of the Champaign store, Slot & Wing Hobbies, I always get good deals there. For exapmle, I got a Fujimi GT-R full detail kit for $15, just because the top of the box was slightly damaged. As far as supplies, I use the Indy stores for that, making a list before I go, usually in conjunction with a car show or swap meet. That's not to say I won't buy online. Most of my online purchases are either HLJ or E-bay.

The AMT '40 has a blown Nailhead Buick, the Flathead is stock only. To my knowledge, there are no Flathead S.C.o.T blowers in any kits, but I do beleive Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland may have them.

That's not what they say on the Paasche website. All of the hobby pant booths listed say right in the description "for water based paints only".

I agree with you 100% on that. It's not worth saving a few bucks if you're putting your life at risk. I guess I'm somewhat fortunate that I have a place where i can paint all I want without bothering anyone, as I do all my hobby building/painting in a separate garage from the house. A paint booth would be nice to have, though. Like i said, if I can find a good deal on a proper paint booth (like a Pace), I would consider it. Alternatively, if I can find the right exhaust fan, I may consider building my own.

I would tend to agree with that, but then again, they don't really specify what type of hobby paint it is compatable with. It could be aimed at hobbyists that use water base or non flammable materials, like some inks, to airbrush with, rather than the enamels, laquers, and alcohol based acrylics that we tend to use. At least that's my theory on it. Would be nice if they were more specific. I will admit, I'm hesitant to get one myself, mainly due to the cost. If i can find a good deal on one, I may consider it.

Modelhaus has one, but it is a 150 instead of a Bel Air.

If you can find it locally, there's a paint brand called Spruce that has a very good gloss black. I get mine from a local PPG dealer. Lays down smooth, and will get a very high gloss without polishing.

Those look perfect, Nick!

I assume you mean me. I was only making an observation and giving a suggestion on what the 1:1 valve stem lengths would be. It was not necessarily aimed at Nick, but rather for anyone who might use his tip that may not be familiar with valve stem lengths. BTW, I wasn't being a "know it all". If you look at the bottom of my posts, you will see that I work on 1:1s for living, so I am very familiar with the subject.

Disregard my last post. Just doublechecked the kit, it is a 426.

In addition, I believe the Hemi in the Coke/LRW is actually a 392 early Hemi, rather than a 426.

The Deora does have a Slant 6 in it, but there's no other engine option in the kit.

We used to have a couple of Clark stations here, the one that was on Main Street was very similar, if not identical, to what tom is building. I recall it had a somewhat large lot for no bigger than the buildng was, and used to be one the popular hangouts when cruisng was still allowed downtown. IIRC, it closed in the late-'80s. The other one was much smaller, I think 2 pumps was all they had, and the building wasn't much bigger than a toll booth. It was across the street from Danville High, right next door to the Golden Tower (AKA "the Poison Palace" ), a local burger joint. That one has been gone since the late '70s, with the Golden Tower closing down around '84.

A little o/t, but have any of y'all ever DRIVEN an aero car? Especially a Daytona or Superbird? I have, and I'll tell ya, that nose goes on forever when veiwed from the drivers seat.

I just got back on here from doing just that. You're right, she's too far gone to restore.

Appearantly, the winner of the contest passed away back in the '70s, his sisters were awarded the car. I don't know if any other relatives are involved. If you check out some of the comments in the video that was posted, most of them are saying the same thing, restore it all the way, or crush it and be done with it.

I understand where you're coming from, and I see whay they're dong it. But it seems to be a bit of a waste to put a donor car frame under a car that's never going to get driven. Since they're going more for a static display, all they really need to do is reinforce the frame in areas not seen when displayed, maybe even solid mount the axles to the from with struts to take the load off the springs. That way, the original car is still intact. By replacing the frame, ignition, etc., the car is no longer "original", and they really should go ahead and do a full restoration. But that's just my own opinion, and what I would do if it was mine.