Longbox55

Wouldn't suprize me. I don't get what the holdup is. BTW, Prologue sucked. Handling was horrible and the penalty for hitting stuff was way unrealistic. I've played the demo on PSN a few times, too. Handling is still way off. GTA4 has better handling cars.

The vacuum line is usually plumbed to the base of the carburetor, though this can vary depending on what engine and carb is run. Some vehicles do make use of the vacuum distribution manifold to split the lines for multiple uses, and in most of those cases, it is also temperature operated as well. Best bet to be accurate would be to consult a shop manual for the particular vehicle you're replicating. You might be able to find an online access manual, especially if it is an older vehicle.

Me too.

Pushed it back again? I've pretty much given up on GT5. They're taking too long to get it out.

Too late, been working on adapting a Racers Wedge to an L700! I appologize for the "snippy" remark, it was uncalled for. For the most part, I do prime my bodies and chassis, Dupli Color has been my primer of choice, but I do use Valspar and BPS primers, too. I generally do not use 1:1 automotive paints, however.

I may be wrong, but I seem to recall that seatbelts were mandated in '66. At least they were in Illinois. This topic does remind me of something similar that happened to a local MoPar collector. He had a garage up around the Chicago area (shared with another collector) that he stored his cars in. They had a fella that took care of cleaning and detailling them as well as taking them to the shows. This guy was supposed to take one of Kennys (the local collector) cars to a show, a '71 'Cuda convertible, 383 automatic, Hemi Orange w/white interior/white billboard/white top. I seem to recal Kenny said there was only like 3 or 4 with that particular color scheme. Well, this guy had a few beers in him while he detailled the car, and on the way to the show, decided to see what it would do. ended up planting it into a telephone pole. According to the police report, he was only "doing 55", but we figure he was doing at least 70 or better, judgeing from the damage. The only salvable body panel was the trunk lid, everything else was bent. Even the engine block was cracked from the impact, and the tailshaft was split on the trans, diff was bowed out, too. About the only good thing is that it wasn't one of Kennys Hemi cars.

No need to be snippy. I was only relating a personal experience. This one truck was the only one I did that way, and it turned out very nice. I have double checked the can, and it does say acrylic enamel, but I also read the reducer, and it has all of the same nasty stuff in it as laquer thinner, which from what I understand is the real issue. Personally, I don't care for DuPont, seen far too many failures of their products, including 2 vehicles owned by my family. I have never had a problem with PPG. Having said all that, I will agree to disagree. Now lets just build something!

I agree with that as well. Even then, I have sprayed automotive laquer directly onto plastic with no primer at all, never got the first bit of crazing, not even where I had removed the side emblems. In this case, the kit is an AMT '60 Chevy pickup, the paint is PPG Delstar Skyline Blue, which was leftover from sprying my 1:1 '55 Chevy (didn't want to waste the paint left in the gun).

IIRC, the Lindberg kit is 1/20 scale, not 1/24-1/25.

I forgot to mention Simple Green. Yes, it is very effective at removing enamals, but it does take longer than Superclean and Purple Power. It isn't as toxic, though. In fact, Simple Green was originally invented for cleaning coffee machines. It will strip chrome off plastic parts, too, but again, not as fast as the other products, and it does leave a residue.

What kind of paint did you use? Enamal? Laquer? Different finishes use different methods of removal, and you'll get different answers from just about everybody. Oven cleaner, DOT3 brake fluid, Superclean/Purple Power, and ELO are the common ones used by most of us for enemals, use 91% rubbing alcohol for laquers. I personally use Superclean, as it is not as toxic as some of the others, plus I keep it on hand for its intended purpose as a floor degreaser. Strips chrome off very well, too. just don't use it to strip aluminum or die cast, it's very corrosive to aluminum.

One thing I've learned in this hobby, Never say Never! The moment you say "They'll never reissue that" and spend big $$ to get an original kit, it WILL BE REISSUED!! A case in point from my own experience, I was hunting a Monogram Buick GSX for a musclecar build I was doing. now this kit had been out of production for a few years when I found one at a swap meet in Bloomington. Paid $30 for it. I figured that it would not be reissued as it didn't sell well (or at least locally) and was a somewhat odd subject compared to the sure thing Chevelles and GTOs. Well, sure enough, not but a month later, it got reissued. Not only was it reissued, but it was now a 2-N-1 with both the stock version and the street machine. Ever since then, unless the original tooling was for sure destroyed/lost/stolen, I never say "it won't get reissued".

Here's a few more of the Scout. And a rear shot of the Hilux.

Looking for something like this?

It was turbocharged. The T-case and front axle center section are the same as the Astro/Safari AWD vans. As far as "useless" goes, they're no less useless than all of those current pickups with the 4 door cabs and 5' or less bed. Can't even haul a load of lumber in one of those.

The Goodyears were incorrect anyway. The 1:1 had Firestone Firehawks.

Never heard of a "too long of a nut" causing any problems. Now if the stud was too long, that could cause the problem, but only if a closed end lug nut was used. Grinding off the studs is NOT the proper repair. Grinding the studs off (or nuts for that matter) not only damages the threads, but it also puts alot of heat into the metal, and could potentially weaken it. The proper repair would have been to replace the studs with the proper length ones, which isn't really that hard to do. If the really did grind them off, I would strongly suggest finding a different shop, preferrably one that employs ASE Certified Mechanics, rather than just any bum off the street (which is far too common these days). You don't mention what kind of vehicle you were driving, but there is a torque spec for lug nuts. If you need the spec to check them yourself, let me know, I have the giudes handy, and on most cars, memorized.

Old myth, no real truth to it with modern radials. On the rotation part, the accepted rotation is to "cross to the power", meaning the non-drive gets crossed to the drive.

While not common due to the low numbers that were done, there were companies that did convert Chevy and GM trucks to 3 and 4 door cabs before GM added a 4 door cab to their option list in '73. Most of the buyers were railroad, construction, and lumber outfits, and the trucks were built to order, usually sent as a bare chassis to the conversion company. Other brands were converted the same way. IH was the first to offer a 4 door cab, with a long, short, or extra short (Travelette) sizes in the mid-'50s. Dodge followed in the '60s. Not 100% sure when Ford added it, but GM didn't offer one until '73.

Yeah, that pic is fuzzy! It does almost look like it says 6 on the lug count. Might be a bad spot in the original before it was scanned in.

All Ford 3/4 tons up to '10 are 8 lug, regardles of light or heavy duty. The only exeption is the '97-'04 light duty, which used 7 lug wheels. The only 3/4 tons in a recent truck that I know of are the '88-'00 light duty C/K 2500 Chevrolet/GMC, and even then those could be either 6 or 8 depending on brake option.

Thanks, Harry. It's more or less right out of the box, other than wireing and oil/feul line plumbing, a resin '53 'Vette exhaust manifold w/duals, and a pair of Lady Luck decals on the quater windows. Other than the mentioned crome trim issues and a bit of fitment issues with the front clip (nothing major), the kit goes together very nicely.

I use beading wire as well. Don't be afraid to poke around the beading wire section, as that wire also comes in coated as well as bare silver. The black and red in the heaveir gauges makes exellent battery cables, I also use the black for brake, feul, and oil hoses.

Here's mine.