[Mercedes-Benz S-class with Nissan RB26 engine.]

Changes:
- Bigger wheels and tyres from Aoshima
- Photoetch brake discs
- Engine changed to Nissan RB26 with resin turbo
- New front seat headrests with screens
- Scratchbuild "japanese" table for the passenger

[Oval exhaust tube experiments. Nascar boom tubes(Advice needed!)]

On 8/26/2021 at 8:49 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

Take some brass tubing, put in a vice and squeeze.  It'll come out pretty close to what you want.  Aluminum tubing would also work and you would not have to paint it.😎

This method might work. There's two things that I can think would be issue. First, you have have something to protect the pipe in the vice. Otherwise you could have nasty marks in your pipe. Secondly, some kind of spacer or stopped would be required to make two identical oval tubes. Thirdly, what if you like a bend in your fresh oval tube. How do you make that? Also how to attach oval tube to reqular round exhaust pipe? I'm in for all kind of advices and tips. I like making custom exhausts to my models and I like to make them "realistic". At least the tips need to be hollow.

[Oval exhaust tube experiments. Nascar boom tubes(Advice needed!)]

I used Albion Alloys brass tubing for these side pipes. Mainly because I can bend it, without it crushing. Although, I had to use smaller tube inside bigger, to get 90 degree angle. Secondly, they fit inside each other.

I also had to drill the tips, so the pipe wouldn't have too thick walls.

[Lowered Volvo 760 GLE]

After alot of thinking, I lowered it this way. In front, I didn't use kit brakes. Glued styrene piece to the lower suspension arm. Then drilled hole to it, allowing new stud(white part) to be mounted up(thus lowering car).

For the rear, I left out springs and the triangle structure. I drilled the center axle hole little bit bigger, allowing rear axle to be pushed closer to the chassis. I would have liked to have the suspension little bit lower in the rear, but axle interfered with stock exhaust. So that needs to modified too, if you want lower rear even more.

[Italeri Volvo 760 GLE]

After alot of thinking, I lowered it this way. In front, I didn't use kit brakes. Glued styrene piece to the lower suspension arm. Then drilled hole to it, allowing new stud(white part) to be mounted up(thus lowering car).

For the rear, I left out springs and the triangle structure. I drilled the center axle hole little bit bigger, allowing rear axle to be pushed closer to the chassis. I would have liked to have the suspension little bit lower in the rear, but axle interfered with stock exhaust. So that needs to modified too, if you want lower rear even more.

[Lowered Volvo 760 GLE]

2 hours ago, Spottedlaurel said:

That looks great! I can see there was a lot of work required on the window trims and other brightwork, it's come out really well.

Thanks. Chrome moldings were very tricky to get right. 

[Lowered Volvo 760 GLE]

Modifications:
-Painted with Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue
-Lowered suspension
-New brakes
-Fujimi rims + added chrome lips
-Stretched tyres
-Exhaust tip
-Rear spoiler
-Modified front lip
-Opened sunroof

[Oval exhaust tube experiments. Nascar boom tubes(Advice needed!)]

Yes i have some Albion Alloys tubing. They're great. It's the shaping part that's hard. Could some kind of buck work? Has anybody tried? And has anybody tried some methods of filling the tube?

[Oval exhaust tube experiments. Nascar boom tubes(Advice needed!)]

Couple of weeks ago, I saw this Dodge sporting nice oval shaped exhaust pipes. It got me thinkering, how can I make similar and realistic ones to scale models.

Since I wanted pipes to be pipes, I tried heating radio antenna, and making it oval shaped. Kinda easy process, but hard to make two similar ones. Also hard to make longer section. Also you have to make the transition to normal exhaust pipe size.

Of course, if you only need piping section to underneath the car, you can shape some round rod to oval rod.

Then I remembered, that I had made some experiments of exhaust tips before.

-Cutting round tube to half and widening it. Hard to make super smooth. I think this is the way Nascar boom tubes are made. Could be wrong.

-Pie cutting tube and making it pointing down.

-Using radio antenna with pipe bender. It has too small wall thickness, so it wants to crumble. If stopped at the right moment, it could be snapped into two pieces. I can create two identical ovalish shapes.

-Heated and drilled exhaust tip from parts sprue. Hard to make wall thickness realistic, and you could see the inside being not hollow.

There is also sometimes oval exhaust tips in kits.

I like to use real pipe on my exhausts, because it adds realism. It is also one of my favourite parts when modifying cars. I hate some of the kits, when exhaust is molded shut. You could drill those ends open, but I find it difficult. Centering the hole, getting wall thickness right. Those things. When the tips are not round, it gets even harder. Carving an oval hole. Not going to be clean.

Almost every time I change at least the round tips, to hollow ones. I like using radio antennas and electric wire crimps. You could even use crimps with the plastic things on, to have some interestign shapes. Crimps could also be used as intake funnels.

 

-What kind of methods have you used when building interesting exhaust pipes/tips/heatshieds?

-Have you tried to make Nascar boom tubes?

[Scratchbuild V8 swamp boat]

Thanks for the feedback. 

[Lifted Subaru Sambar]

Thanks for the feedback. 

[Airfix Chevrolet Cavalier converted to Opel Ascona.]

Thanks for the feedback. 

[Toyota Celica Supra]

On 7/29/2021 at 4:07 AM, 89AKurt said:

 Where did the [HOONIGAN] decal come from?

I got it from some random decal sheet. I don't know makes it. 

And thanks for the feedback. 

[Scratchbuild V8 swamp boat]

Scratchbuild almost 100%. Only kit parts were engine, seats, propeller, fuel tank + some details. Steering works too.

[Airfix Chevrolet Cavalier converted to Opel Ascona.]

Airfix box says 1982 Chevrolet Cavalier. I modified the front lights to look like Opel Ascona C. Although Opel never made liftback version of 2 door model, they had 5 door model with similar rear end. Lots of modifications had to be done to suspension, to get it lowered and front wheels steerable. Original engine block were modified to have 16 valve head, turbo, fuel injection and direct coils.

[Toyota Celica Supra]

Tamiya re-release. Lowered and fitted lower tires. Widened stock rims with wider lips.

[Lifted Subaru Sambar]

Basic Aoshima kit. I lifted the bed and cabin. Made portal axles out of supercharger rear sections. Used resin 1:35 tyres.

[Dystopian watchtower]

I made this 1/35 watchtower from scratch. Basic shapes are made from Pringles can and toothpick can. Lots of styrene profiles is used. Bottom character and flying thing are from Bandai. Top soldiers are from Industria Mechanika, but modified.

[Nissan GT-R Liberty Walk]

Aoshima kit with modifications
- Hobby Design rear wing
- Hobby Design photoetch parts
- New exhaust tips
- Color: Tamiya Pearl Light Blue TS-58

[Nissan GT-R]

Aoshima kit with modifications
- New wheels and tyres
- Evo 10 rear wing
- Fujimi photoetch parts
- Color is my own mix.

 

[J'S Racing MG-B Roadster]

9 hours ago, matthijsgrit said:

That's some nice out of the box thinking! What's under the hood, a S2000 engine perhaps?

That was my thinking too. 

[J'S Racing MG-B Roadster]

14 minutes ago, Spottedlaurel said:

That looks great, very inventive!

Are they Honda Beat wheel centres?

I think they are. 

[J'S Racing MG-B Roadster]

Idea for this Honda tuning company J'S Racing tuned MG-B came, when I found nice wheels, that had Honda logos. So I widened them and lowered car to get right stance. I changed drivers seat, added racing harnesses, external oilcooler and suitable decals.

[29 Ford ratrod with a twist]

7 hours ago, carchub said:

Wow! I love the pattern on the inside of the doors, mind sharing how that was achieved?

That's a sticker believe or not. You could find them at craft stores probably. They are post card sized and have Kodak marking at the back.

[29 Ford ratrod with a twist]

15 hours ago, gbtr6 said:

Really like the rust and patina detail. Did you use the salt trick? What method did you use if not that.

I used hairspray technique. It has 4 layers of paint. Rust, grey, green and blue. Every layer has hairspray between them. After that, some oil paints on top.