MrObsessive

Yes! Carburetor springs are not hard to do at all! I like to use coax cable wire for my springs as to me they look the most in scale diameter wise, and you can get a lifetime supply of wire from two feet of cable. Depending on the scale you're working on, simply start wrapping the wire around a drill bit (diameter is up to you depending on scale), and wind it around to the length of your choice. As Håkan mentioned, these are tension springs, so when you've wrapped enough wire according to length, simply push the wire together to eliminate any spaces. Leave a bit of length on each end, bend carefully to "hook" into the linkages, and there you have it. This is great for a static display where things don't need to move. For something that needs to move, you may want to check out a well stocked train shop as they carry tension springs that would be just the right scale for 1/24-1/25.

Bruce if built straight out of the box, there aren't many issues. But as you can see, I've been practically re-engineering the kit from bumper to bumper, so there's some difficulties I've run into. I don't know if you've read the entire thread, but the engine placement issue is a faux pas on Revell's part as it sits a bit too far back in the engine bay. Also, the interior itself to me is a problem as the seats don't quite line up properly so the trim matches from front to back. It could be that the molds were wearing thin, but on the other hand, this is the original release version that I'm building.

Erik, I sold mine on eBay a while back............it was on Fotki, but no longer. I had it for years, but I got to a point when I knew that I'd never build it. Maybe later, if I can find the pics on my hard disc, I'll see if I can upload them again.

Thanks for the well wishes so far fellas! I'm still working on the interior-----got the front seats and door panels done, and now the rear seat is nearly done, but no painting as of yet. After I get the dash finished, then I'll paint then entire works. I will have to print new seat decals----since the seats were changed a bit, the kit's stick on decals won't do. Not to mention, the pattern is cloth on the 1:1, and those were too glossy anyway. Nothing really much picture worthy yet......maybe over the weekend, I can give you all a peek as to the changes. Been really busy lately with work and all, and I've been busy writing another article for MCM. What's it about?? Well, you'll just have to stay tuned and be on the lookout!

Yeah Rob, they have to be! To me they look soooo big! I'd sooner spend the money on some nice wide whitewalls from The Modelhaus, or scrounge around in my parts box.

One of my favorite '60's British iron! I had the Gunze kit, and yes--------it can try your patience! I'm so glad that you're getting rid of the body seams! A lot of builders overlook that subtle yet important detail. It was never present on the 1:1 car (but it was on the D-Types). I"ll definitely be following along!

If I were building this today (built one back in the early '90's), I would swap out the kit tires and put on something smaller. To my eyes, the tires look GIGANTIC compared to the rest of the car..............at least the "Skips" version did. The wide whitewalls to me simply add to the size. Just my 2­¢ worth...........

I always thought the upper part of the windshield crown on the '55 hardtop didn't appear right to me. It appears a bit too rounded compared to pics I have of the 1:1's. The convertible's windshield frame seems to suffer from this same malady. Of course, I'm particular about this sort of thing! Also the pic shown of the upcoming '57 convertible's beltline appears correct to me.........I'd like to have the kit in 3D though as we all know that pics can be deceiving.

Great looking paint job! .........And yes, I've always loved Avantis and Hawks------always will!

Joe, it's going to be a kitbash of several different kits. The '68 Shelby, the '66 Mustang in which I'll be using its roof, part of its beltline and rear quarters, and the '67 Shelby for the floorpan and mechanical bits. I've got the correct ten spokes from GMP with nice tires to go with it. This'll be a bit before I get started......I want to get the '59 Impala to the point where the body is painted and drying before I start work on it. Interesting you mention the convertible........it was a choice between the '68 Shelby Convertible or the Green Hornet. The latter won out as to me it's just a cooler looking car! Yup! I got 'em!

It may have well been the 70% type I was using. I've got a ton of Tamiya's thinner now, but when the time comes that I run short, I'll certainly keep the 91% isopropyl alcohol in mind.

I'm not much into customs, but that is a FANTASTIC job! And the fact that you modified a DIECAST makes it all the more fantastic! Thanks for sharing!

OK! I've found a kit that has 'em, or at least something very close. The Revell '69 Shelby GT-500 has those lights and they look to about the right size. Looking at 1:1 pics I have of the cars, it looks like Ford used those from '68-'70.

Thanks John! Another caveat is when rubbing out the clear, I would dry sand it as opposed to wetsanding it. This is water based stuff, and wetsanding it may lead to some funny stuff. I don't mean the comical kind either! I've done it this way on the builds you see there and while it was more work, the results paid off with the clearcoat remaining intact after rubbing and polishing it out.

Hmmm..........Unless I was doing something wrong, I tried using isopropyl alcohol in the clear one time, and it fisheyed! Now this was a looong time ago (20 years maybe?}, perhaps Tamiya's changed the formula since then? I've used their thinner and never had a problem.

John, here's a few pics of cars I clearcoated with Tamiya's Acrylic Clear. As Jeff mentioned it's the X-22 on the label. These were both cleared over automotive paints (the 'Vette was lacquer, the Magnum acrylic enamel), and they still look good today with no cracking or other funny stuff. One caveat I can give you is that if you're doing a white car, I would let the clear setup a bit before putting it in the dehydrator to speed things up. Tamiya Clear I've found tends to yellow quickly in areas where the paint likes to gather, such as door lines, fender creases, etc. Hope this helps!

Having once owned a 1:1 '69 AMX, the front end in the drawing looks like the old trunion setup that AMC was still using through '69. This might be the case as a lot of one-offs in those days were using parts bin items to get them at least driveable and "showable". The rear end is a different animal though.........looks like a dual coil setup with lower A-arms maybe? I'd like love to see pics as well..........this would be a GREAT car to model!

OK! I'm at the point in my '59 Impala build that I'm starting to have my mind set on my next project. It looks like it might be this............... For those of you that don't know, this was a one off Shelby nicknamed "The Green Hornet". It ran an electronically fuel injected 428, and had an independent rear--------both unheard of in this type of car in 1968! I indeed did build this one a long time ago (1996?), but I'd like to do a much improved one as I have all of the bits and pieces to do another. All of the bits and pieces except for one thing-------those fog lamps. Is there a kit out there that has those lamps, and that are separate pieces such as the housings and lenses? Not the junky things that are in the '68 Shelby kit......those just won't do! Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give!

I'm not normally a street rod guy, but I do have the original kit of this----and yes, I DO like cycle fenders! Very nice and clean job you did on this!

Wow! For your second build ever it looks great! The only tip I can give is to maybe BMF your vent wing posts. They were chrome (actually stainless steel) like your window trim. I wish my second build could've looked this good!

Absolutely Beautiful Craig! Your interior is especially nice! I'm still working on mine........still a ways to go!

If I'm not mistaken, the diesel in the Chevette (and Pontiac's T1000) were actually Isuzu engines. GM wasn't doing too well with their homegrown diesels back in those days. A rare car if one can be found in good shape today!

Don and Carol once mentioned to me at a show (maybe Toledo?) that with their volume of business, and the amount of items that they carry, a pictorial website would be pretty difficult. I've been buying from them for years and I've never gotten bad product from them! You can rest assured that whatever it is they sell, it'll be top notch. Sigh.........that Lincoln is really calling my name! That is an EXCELLENT conversion! I may just break down and buy the parts in stages as I would like full chassis and engine detail with mine. Oh, you can get separate bodies from them still--------It may not be listed in their catalog, but last I knew, the body only was something like $25 or thereabouts. I'd either drop them a line and ask, or call them to find out for sure. If you want to see more of what they have to offer, just click on the pic above, and it'll take you to another Fotki page which shows a number of items.

http://public.fotki.com/Tomk/modelhaus-resin/dscn2460.html

The body proportions of this particular kit never seemed right to me-----it on par with Monogram's original '69 Camaro kit. Compared to the modern versions of Revell's '69 Camaro it's lacking IMO. But for its time, it wasn't bad. We REALLY need a full detailed, up to date kit of the '69 Firebird/Trans Am!