stewart

I have the radiator installed, and I am almost done with the exhaust system. I just need to make the tips. The glasspack mufflers are aluminum from JB Hobbies. The piping is .125 solder and aluminum tubing. STewart

It is fairly easy to make an inline engine rather than a V-style. It depends on the look you want. If you just want the impression of a cummins you could use a kit inline 6 and scratch some extras. If you want a really accurate-looking cummins, it will have to be completely scratchbuilt. STewart

That makes three of us. That just look ridiculous.

The engine is now installed. I need to complete the exhaust, install the radiator, finish a few other odds and ends, and this build will be done. Maybe I can even complete it this weekend. I had a small setback tonight though it ended up being a good thing. I had the engine all put together, the drive shaft installed, and I glued the engine and radiator in the engine compartment. Suddenly, I realized that there were no headers Oh great!!! So I had to take off the manifold and the two superchargers in order to get to the engine block heads to drill out the holes for the headers. However, I was able to clean up some excess glue buildup since the prochargers were off and make the engine look a little cleaner. That was the good part. I have it all done now. I just need to glue it in place after I make sure I can get the exhaust in. STewart I was able to hook up the pulleys for the pro chargers. I think that this way works. Tell me if it doesn't. I had to add another belt to one side. STewart

Thanks guys, I do have some epoxy I could use I just dont really like using it because it is rather cumbersome to have to mix it and use it before it hardens. It also tends to get places I don't intend because of its consistency. However I will give it a try and see. Thanks so much for the input. STewart

Got a little done tonight. Not as much as I had wanted to. Unfortunately, while I was trying to adjust the intake plumbing from the prochargers, they both broke off . That usually means more super glue which ends up with glue buildup and makes the part look bad. Aaargh!!! Oh well. Still working on that part of my modeling skill set. I now just have to figure out how I am going to hook up the pulleys to the belt. Anybody have ideas? The prochargers are to far back to put another pulley layer on the engine. Have to find another way. Here are some pics of the radiator with a Machined Aluminum Specialties electric fan PE set and the intake I made for the engine with two laminated pieces of styerene painted with Alclad dark aluminum. the plubming is .125 solder, the blue connectors are heat shrink tubing The wing bolts on top are made with Detail Master's valve cover t-bolt set and 2 Model Car Garage hex nuts from their nut and bolt PE set. STewart

Nice job. That is a great-looking viper. STewart

I did. That is just wrong to put tuner stuff, especially the engine, in a classic muscle car. Nice work though. Even though I don't really like the concept you executed it very well. Some nice detail work there. x2 for wondering where the motor is from. The turbo looks awesome. STewart

Thanks for the advice. The air filter I mocked up on the carbs is just to get an idea of what the air box will look like. I plan on make an "aluminum" airbox out of styrene and run the outlet pipes from the pro-chargers into there. I think this is the best-looking way of doing this. I get what you are saying . I have not forgotten about hooking up the chargers to the carburetors. Thanks so much for the helpful advice though. It is always welcome.

Great to see this project going again. It is really cool. STewart

I got the gauges from model car Garage. It is a PE detail set. I will not have a lot of updates now as school just started. However, I was able to throw together a quick mockup of the car. I completed the intake and now just have to finish up the linkages to the carburetors. I was trying to figure out how to make an air box to run the outlet lines from the prochargers into. I finally found something that looks good. It is an oblong resin air filter. I will probably end up making a smooth-sided one from styrene and paint it aluminum. STewart

I now have the body painted and ready to go. It is painted graphite metallic with pearl clearcoat. I think it is the best paint job I have laid down yet. I am working on my painting skills and I think I am getting better. I decided to change up the intake system to a cross-ram as I agree with a post made earlier that the sonoramic intake seems rather dated to be using on this build. I could not find a good cross-ram in my stash to fit the engine so I ended up scratchbuilding one. I also made the air filter intakes for the pro chargers. The tubing is 12 guage insulated copper wire. The K&N filters are from Scale Dreams. STewart

STewart

Way too many to pick from but here are some favorites. STewart

I completed the roll bar and most of the interior. I painted and installed the shifter, a cassette player, and steering wheel. The shifter is the kit part. The cassette player and steering wheel are detail master parts. I have the suspension glued in place. I am waiting for the glue to dry to complete it. I used disc brakes from the Revell GTS Viper kit. Thanks for following, more to come soon. STewart

I have finished the suspension and am now on the way towards trying to get this thing into rolling chassis. I have had a few problems with setting it up to ride on all four wheels but I think I have it pretty well done. Just a few adjustments to do on the front. I have the interior set up. I need to finish the roll bar but I have the main hoop set up. I did some pin striping on the seats in the interior to add some interest. It is not that great. It is really hard to have a steady hand. STewart

Thanks shucky. Those superchargers I got from you are really great. STewart

Thanks for your input. According to my reference pictures, the distributor appears to be at the right angle. Here is a shot of it. I will be using a dual procharger setup on the engine. Hopefully that will not seem redundant due to the nature of the cross ram intake. Tell me what you think of the idea. I might try to change it up for an EFI system or something similar. Here is a picture of the interior bucket and seats. Thanks again for the input. I appreciate it. STewart

I have completed painting the wheels. I have finished the chassis and frame painting. I modified the fuel tank to look more like a racing fuel cell. I took the front suspension and cut it down to the minimum and replaced the torsion bars, steering, and traction bar with solder and aluminum tubing.

I have done quite a bit since I last posted. I have the motor nearly complete. It just needs the exhaust headers done and it will be complete. I am working on the interior. This is what I have done on the dash, the rest of the interior is almost complete. I have been trying to work out a 4-link suspension for the rear. I fabricated some coil springs for the rear and am now just trying to fix the ride height to where I need it. Here is my rear axle so far. I have had problems with my 4-link brackets and am now trying to make some that work. STewart

I am working on a cummins 6.7. I sent it to a really good resin caster about a year ago but he is kind of slow due to his work schedule. He only does resin casting on the side. Here is the link to the thread. He told me recently he is finishing up the last bit with the turbos and he will soon be done. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35342&hl=%2Bcummins+%2B6.7&fromsearch=1 STewart

Thanks so much for the link. Those look like just what I am looking for. STewart

I know there are a couple of options for flotation tires for the front. There is one available from Italeri and one from revell (in their can do and bill signs kits). However, I have yet to see any super single tire for the rear. Though these options are wider than the regular tires, they are definitely not wide enough for the super singles that are sometimes used in place of duals on driven axles. Here is a picture of super singles on a truck. These are the front flotation tires which are the only ones available for models as far as I know. They are not as wide as the super singles used for drive axles. I am wondering if there is a wide super single that could be put on drive axles instead of duals. STewart

I will list those as soon as I get the engine from alan. STewart

Nice job. That looks great. Keep it up. STewart