Cool Hand
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Posts posted by Cool Hand
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Interesting, look forward to seeing current tech and how its being used and what its capable of.
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This 68 Chevelle was the first build idea I had to use the Pegasus Mini T's with 1311 DZ tyres. But it got painted before setting the stance.
So now the paint is fully cured I set about roughing in the stance. Few adjustments needed, just loose mock up for now
Im not concerned about the undercarriage detail it will never be seen once its in the display case and on the shelf. So the stance is what matters with these recent lowered builds.
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5 hours ago, KWT said:
Man I don't see how you do it... always amazed...
Thanks,
Had a lot of practice, painted over 50 builds with TS-14.
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Applied the Tamiya TS-14 black.
Please bare with me as I try to explain and hope it makes sense. Sorry for it being so long and wordy with no pics.
I like to paint when the temp is around 86f, a slight bit of humidity is helpful. I wet down the area where I paint.
For this build I did not wet sand the surfacer as there was no need. It was very smooth and was a good enough foundation for the black.
I start of with what people call a mist coat. On the surface it looks like that, but in reality it is a very thin light wet coat.
It needs to be wet, if misted on too dry it will cause texture and added layers will not bury it. To me this is where orange peel can start.
All the coats of paint I mention are applied about three to four inches from the surface. The closer you are to the surface the wetter the coat will be. But the wetter the coat, the faster you must move the can past the surface to prevent runs and sags
I start painting the thin light wet coat along the bottom edges first. Rocker panel, wheel arches, and then front and rear.
After that, go to the top edge of front guard, door top and rear guard, then trunk, roof and cowl. Followed by going down the sides.
Once that first light wet coat has been applied to all surfaces, I continue straight away with another light wet coat in the same order as the first.
When the second light coat has been applied I set the body aside and paint 2 light wet coats to the hood and any other parts painted body colour.
Then its back to the body, this time a medium wet coat is used and applied one after the other on the surface until the surface looks fully wet. For me thats usually 3-4 passes. These coats are where the paint is built up in layers/passes to full wet look gloss.
Start on the front and rear. then do the trunk, roof and cowl, then make your way down along the sides. The trick here is to keep moving and rotating. Trying to keep it all looking wet. The medium coat is achieved by moving the can past the surface a slight bit slower than the thin light.
Once the whole body has the wet look from the medium coat, set it aside for 10-20 mins. You can tell when its ready for the next coat as the wet look will be gone and the paint has shrunk to the surface and has a very fine/micro orange peel.
Next final coats are medium and built up to the wet look again in 3-4 passes, but after the wet look is achieved one final heavy coat is applied. This is again is moving the can a slight bit slower past the surface than the medium coat. But there is a fine line between being just right and the paint running. Its all about learning how much paint can be applied before it runs on the final coat.
After being fully painted. The body stays under a container with a very small air gap for the first 24hr's to dry/cure. Ive found if Tamiya paint gasses and dries out within the fumes of the paint, it does not shrink as quick as it would in open air. I think this prevents orange peel. So I think thats another cause for people getting orange peel with Tamiya lacquer. Dry and cure it too quick and it doesnt get a chance to shrink slow and self level. So after the first 24hrs I increase the air gap. I wait 72hrs before removing the body from the paint stand and keep it in the container with a large air gap. If the climate is around 86 it will take at least a week to fully harden.
One day I will just have to try build up the confidence to step in front of camera and show the process, because showing would explain the technique so much better.
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Applied some paint to the KenMeri Skyline and 69 Camaro.
Always consistent results with Tamiya TS-14 black.
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Well done David. turned out great.
Can see you enjoyed the process of building a 30MM and coming up with a custom paint scheme.
Look forward to seeing the next one you build.
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12 minutes ago, Slotto said:
Wish the Aldi near me had models
Its great as they are half the asking price of kits sellers else where in Australia. But they only get them in every now and then, maybe once a year and you have to be quick because of people like me that will buy 3 or 4 of each kit 😄
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Interesting colour selections.
Its a very rewarding experience reassembling these kits after paint seeing all the colours come together.
Look forward to seeing the glamour shots Under Glass
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Dug the last of the cheap Aldi kits out of the stash.
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14 hours ago, Zippi said:
I think I have the wheel tubs about where I want them. I tried 3 different glues to glue the white sheet stock to the pill bottles and they all failed. I have white glue (Mod Podge) on it now hoping that will work.
Similar to what the Steve's mentioned.
Sand both surfaces with 320 or 400 grit and use CA glue. It will create a stronger bond and more solvent resistant than white glue. Also the benefit of using CA, it will act as a filler between both materials which can be sanded flush eliminating the join line for a cleaner look.
Also if you want to get the body back to clean bare plastic, dip a cotton ball in Mr Leveling Thinner and wipe over the body it will get rid of the remaining primer. Might take some time and a few cotton balls but worth the effort imo.
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Sometimes idea's lead to finding a style of build I like, which can get out of hand.
Dug another kit of the stash, also another cheapy from Aldi.
Again using same wheels. Mini T's, but I previously forgot to mention I used 1311 DZs tyre.
And once again after a couple hours the undercarriage detail was sacrificed to get it nice and low.
Not as cool as the Camaro. But I like it being different.
And yeah, one more kit planned to be built the same style, more on that one soon.
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6 hours ago, Andrew McD said:
One thing that shines through throughout this thread is the outstanding photography. Care to share what you typically do for lighting?
Thanks, I always try to make sure my pictures are clear, clutter free and in focus.
Nothing special for lighting, the room I build in has dual overhead 1200mm L.E.D light batten's. Complete over kill for the size of the room, but I set it up that way so I would not need bench top lighting.
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Camaro body prep work just about done, few spots to sort out.
Usual scribe work done, also shaved and smoothed out.
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So as always when idea's get the better of me, I dig a kit out of the stash and start the process of sussing out the idea.
Purchased a few of this particular kit cheap from Aldi and I still cant believe they sell kits every now and then.
Have been wanting to do a 70's style Lowrider for awhile and thought these wheels would suit.
After a few hours of some serious mods to the undercarriage the stance is close to where im happy with it. Im not concerned with chassis details, this build is all about the top side visual.
Still need to adjust and finalize the wheel center positions, also the track width will come in a bit.
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On 1/24/2023 at 1:42 PM, dragstk said:
Do you rattle can the Tamiya paint or do you decant it and then air brush?
Care to do a tutorial on your technique?
Black paint jobs are done with a rattle can.
64 Nova thread has some info.
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Pretty much got all the sanding prep work done, applied another check coat of surfacer.
Showed up a few small spots that will need sorting out. But overall not bad for the first go around.
To do the first round of block sanding, 600 wet and dry paper is used wrapped over a rubber block which is a cut down eraser. Using a firm block helps flatten the surface without creating troughs .
On panels that have a curved surfaces, a closed cell foam block is used. Its firm but will conform to the shape of the surface.
After the block sanding is done on the larger surfaces, I change over to foam backed sanding sticks by Dspiae to get into the nooks and crannies.
Dspiae have some excellent sets available.
Variety of thickness, thin can be folded over to get into corners and thick can be used on larger surfacers.
Also use Infini sanding sponges for final finish wet sanding,
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Looks like the paint can hasnt been shaken enough.
Polished TS-11 over black surfacer.
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Well its been a minute, I finally decided to get back to this build.
First part of prep work I like to do is to scribe and deepen the door lines and trunk lines. Also I like to scribe around the window trims.
I use a 0.15mm scribe for the doors and trunk and 0.1mm for around trim
The benefit of applying a check coat of black surfacer is that you can see whats been done as you are doing prep work.
Few slips here and there, but no big deal. Easy to fix the deeper gouges by filling with some CA glue before moving on to next step.
Also you might notice the inside of the wheel arch's have been thinned with a Dremel drum sander. And the door handle locating holes have been filled with styrene rod.
Using 400 grit wet on a rubber block, the rocker panel trim, peak moulding, rear wheel arch and door moulding trim was all removed. Also removed the scripts on the front guard.
And obviously the mould lines on the roof etc are also removed during this first round of sanding
Next step will be to block sand the remaining parts of the body with 600 grit wet.
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Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
Removed the bodies from the paint stands and done a mock up, definitely need a change of wheels and stance adjustment on both.
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Speaking of black paint jobs. Got a couple more bodies painted today.
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On 1/12/2023 at 7:38 PM, Mattilacken said:
Okay cool! Thats Enamel right?
Nah, lacquer based
On 1/12/2023 at 9:35 PM, Lowlife ! ! said:Always good to catch up on your projects Luke, you must have loads of those Nissans in stock !
Is the orange one a General Lee style ? Colour and wheels looked right to me !!
And I've still never seen anyone lay down a black paint job as good as you... Amazing !!
Appreciate you dropping in and commenting Martin. Yes, I have many 210 and 211 Skylines in the kit stash, my favorite year/make/style.
The colour and wheels are a definite hints.
Thanks for the kind words about the black paint jobs, like anything it all takes practice. Which ive had alot of over the years applying TS-14 black.
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Great little kits, that are a lot of fun to build.
Bandai's quality never disappoints, always an enjoyable experience building their kits.
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Yep, totally agree its a great idea to have one build thread for all the side projects.
Look forward to seeing what else you got going on in the Arctic Garage.
Lead City Customs
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted · Edited by Cool Hand
Yeah dude!!
I seen that whilst searching.
And had full intentions of doing a lowered 69 Camaro on wire wheels as a future build. But seeing those pics in my thread got me inspired and motivated..
So I dug out another Aldi Camaro kit from the stash and went to work setting the stance and fitting Pegasus #1311 DZ's.
Yep!!