Aaronw

I was asking about the Monogram 1930s cars (which includes the Cadillacs) earlier this year, and the general comments were that they are nice kits. Some took a few liberties in accuracy to allow multiple versions to be built without complete retooling, but good kits. I'm working on a Monogram Packard which should be similar and I have no complaints. Nice detail, no serious fit issues, clean castings, well thought out assembly etc.

I plan on finishing every last kit in my stash, so if I keep buying I'll live forever!

Unless it is a color I only have in a spraycan (like Detroit Diesel Alpine Green) I will usually brush paint an engine. I'll paint it as I go, so I may assemble the main block then paint that, then add the heads, and other components but what I assemble before painting depends a lot on the individual engine. A stock Ford flat head I'd probably put the heads on before I painted since they are the same color as the block. On an engine with chrome heads I'd probably add them after I painted the block. The same goes for most parts of a kit, I look at it and decide if it will be easier to paint before or after I attach a part. It is not the same from kit to kit.

Personally I think prices now include a discount factor. Raise the prices then offer frequent sales so people feel like they are getting a bargain when in fact they are paying what they used to pay retail.

Do your cows have Nike swooshes instead of spots? those are some fast cows.

Kevin, I'll let you know if decals work out. I took some good close up photos of the various style badges a few years ago with the idea of drawing them up for decals or photo etch. I bought an ALPS printer a few years ago so at a minimum I think I could do bright chrome like decals, I also bought one of those Micro Mark photo etch kits but haven't played with it yet to see what kind of detail is possible with it. Does your Mack brochure list available engines? It looks like an inline 6 and has diesel badges on the side. I had read somewhere that they only came with gas engines, the likely candidate being a Mack rebadged Chrysler 413 V-8. Obviously with your photos diesels were available. I'm also interested in seeing more info on the FWD trucks. For those of you with multiple years worth of brochures I am particularly interested in some of the year to year details, like when the C500-550 and 950+ were dropped (late 60s I believe), and which Cummins diesel was offered and which years. I've seen conflicting information as to whether or not a Cummins was even available in the C series or only in the H, and if one was, I've seen both V (Vine, Vim, Val) and inline engines mentioned, but nothing I would consider solid like a manufacturer listing.

Great idea, models are only getting more expensive and if you buy in bulk you save on shipping with many online dealers offering free shipping at $200-250. I kind of do the same thing, I work a lot of overtime in the summer time and stock up, then I build from the stash in the winter time. I didn't start out with retirement in mind, I just got tired of having to go hunting for a kit I thought would always be on the shelves, but as I get closer to that age I appreciate the stockpile I'll have to work from. I am eligable for retirement at 50 and based on family history expect to be healthy and active into my 80s so I have some time to fill. If you shop around you can often find good deals, people selling off their kits because they "have too many", or they decide to get out of the hobby, overstock shops just want to clear out (I got several Ford C-600 kits 2 for $25 a few years ago) and just good sales now and then. I probably spend an average of $1000-1500 a year on the hobby (or what some spend buying fancy coffee & a pastry on the way to work every morning) and over 10 years built up a stock pile of around 200-250 cars / trucks and 400-500 aircraft kits, as well as tools and supplies. I've slowed down on kits as I have a good chunk of what I like and now mainly focus on the occasional great deal, re-issues I missed the first time around, references and higher end tools that will make my life easier.

Brian I don't know what style you are looking for but the Revell '29 Ford truck, AMT 1925 Model T and Lindberg 1934 Ford truck all offer multiple options with speed equipment, custom parts, and custom body parts allowing you to make your own creation from stock to mild customs to full custom, rat rod etc. They also provide a ton of parts good for beginning a parts box.

This is the one I have, I think it is the late 50s truck.

Weird, mine have always come with an almost equal volume of airbags, I don't think anything short of a plane crash could damage the contents. I have made many orders from them. Your orders must get packed at 4:56pm Friday afternoon.

Silicone is really tough and flexible so hard to cut. I agree you are better off putting any vents in when you pour the silicone, not after it has cured. I understand you might find a need for a vent in a cured mold, but why would you want to intentionally add them afterwards?

I really try to follow 2 and 3, focus on trying to build a decent quality model. I try and expand my skills a bit each time by practicing a skill I'm not fully comfortable with or trying something totally new. I have learned to appreciate a nice, just get it built model now and then. Nothing like actually finishing a model or to get out of a getting to much into the details funk. That is what I'm finding nice with WW1 and the interwar period aircraft. There are still rivit counters out there, but not a ton of irrefutable proof to support them, a scrap of 90 year old fabric, a poor quality B&W photo, perhaps some documentation of questionable heritage (lots of fakes out there). As a result most WW1 builders I've run into seem to be pretty mellow and accept a large degree of this is what research suggests combined with a good dose of so what if it isn't completely accurate, it looks good. Interwar has much of the same, but is an even smaller group. Car builders as a group though do have to be one of the most casual when it comes to "accuracy". Not that there is no attempt at accuracy, simply that cars do have a lot of variation. You can build a "factory stock" car with a custom paint job and rims, because a real person could take their 100% stock Yugo to a body shop, get a candy grape paint job, huge hood scoop and 19" rims put on it (why is another issue entirely ).

Thanks, that will help. Thanks for the inspiration too, I finally have an idea for this kit.

I remember hearing that Kingsford charcoal was related to Henry Ford. I have a question about the MH conversion, I can see that the front was changed to a more conventional 2 spring set up, instead of the single transverse spring. I am assuming the same was done for the rear, but haven't been able to find any photos of the rear set up. Anyone happen to know? I'm planning to go that way, but thought I'd double check. I also ran across a car auction site with that '48 MH Woodie (or at least an identical one), it was being estimated with a value of $200-250,000. I thought they would be worth some money, but that definately ensures I'll have to satisfy myself with a 1/25 version. I'm liking the artist oils for the wood grain effect. I'll start a WIP for anyone interested once I can touch the body again (I understand it might take a few days for the oils to dry).

That is what I heard too. It's too bad because he had some neat stuff. It also makes me wonder how many of those CFC parts you see on ebay selling for crazy amounts are actually knockoffs. If that is really the reason he quit then it is kind of a double insult, they caused him to stop casting, then clean up because "his" parts are rare.

Most of the time I have no problem with my packages, but a couple months ago I made a fairly large order from 3 shops (working 160+ hours of overtime in 3 weeks tends to make me order kits). All three boxes looked like they had ridden in the trunk of a demolition derby loser on the way to my house, there were actually a few holes punched in the sturdy cardboard boxes. One came by UPS, the other two USPS. I'm guessing the UPS van collided with the USPS truck on the way to my house. Luckily the kits inside were fine, although a couple of the boxes were a bit squooshed. I rarely have any trouble so I found it odd to have all of them arrive like that from totally different areas of the country.

I'm not saying anything bad about the kit, just that after really looking at it I realized making it into a day cab involves a lot more than just cutting off the sleeper and adding a back wall. Having looked at it though and seeing what is being done here, I am now even more positive I want to make it into a daycab.

Seeing this inspired me to have a look at the kit, I am much more interested in building it as a daycab, but the built in high top sleeper made that seem unlikely. I've changed my mind seeing yours, not a simple conversion but very do-able. However it also made me realize why no one has made a resin day cab for this kit, the rest of the conversion would be almost as much work, cutting down the interior tub and sleeper base molded to the frame. Anyone willing to take that on can probably do the cab as well. Then there is the cost even a modestly priced cab would double the price of the kit. I have one favor to ask, could you tell me the measurements of the back window and how far above the bottom of the cab the bottom of the window is? Thanks

Someone did do that with engines, and not just trucks pretty much everything that has been done in a kit. Unfortunately their website has been down for sometime now, there was a lot of good info saved there. If people want to put togther a list of all that stuff I'd be willing to organize it and add it to my website. I have a lot of the engine info, I copied from the website I mentioned, but I'm sure there are some not listed since it was mostly a car site. I have none of the transmission, suspension info.

That is kind of neat, I guess it is a Muschero? No a Ranchstang, yes that sounds better.

That looks like you could steal the cab right off of a Payhauler. As far as the reverse slope windshields I know the big snow plows like the Oshkosh do it to reduce snow on the windshield. Notice both the front and side windows slope inward at the bottom.

Get used to paying $15-25 for car kits, that is the standard price these days. As for online shops I use Tower Hobby, Megahobby and Model Round up.

Ha, you should see my work bench, I misplaced a Payhauler on it once. The multiple build thing is an acquired skill, and who knows a 1950 Cameo might look good.

I got some cab over trucks from him a few years ago. The cabs needed some work but were decent quality. I dont have any complaints about the service or items I bought.

Ok, I've found each decade is dominated by one of the big 3's trucks. I think you will find my theme fairly easily. 1930s Chevrolet / GMC & Dodge trucks as there are none, but we have the 29, 34, 37 and 40 Ford. 1940s Ford & Dodge trucks, we have the 41 Chevy which lasted through '46, and the 50 is essentially the same 47-53, so GM is well represented. There is the '40 Ford, but nothing for the 42-47, the '50 Ford covers 48-50. There is no Dodge from this period at all. 1950s Dodge trucks, Ford and Chevy have some gaps but are fairly well represented through '56. Late 50s Fords and Chevys would be welcome. 1960s Ford & Dodge trucks. Chevy is well represented in this period but the others are absent (I know there were some Ford promos but they are long gone and very basic). Re-issues of the late 60s GM trucks would be welcome. The 70s could be pretty well dealt with through re-issues, although an early 70s Dodge would be nice. A 60-70s Ford Bronco would be nice. The 80s are ok, again fairly well covered although re-issues would be welcome. The 90s again did ok, certainly some missing but at least there is something to work with for the major designs from all 3. I would welcome trucks from the smaller manufacturers as well, but making sure the big 3 were covered would be a good start.