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Scale-Master

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Everything posted by Scale-Master

  1. It is there because Gary thought it would be a nice addition for the builders to have a well rendered version of the Rockford plate, (like the Bullitt plate), since those cars are popular for people to make their own models of. I was only too happy to oblige...
  2. After a couple more hours of filing (than I expected), it is just about ready for paint… I see a couple spots in the picture that could use some minor attention.
  3. Notice a certain plate for a popular private investigators Firebird...?
  4. Thank you. That was my fifth try over the last six weeks, I had to fine tune the chemicals, and the overall process as well, to get a more delicate part than I previously had etched. I didn't keep track of the exact amount of time, but it took about two hours to prep each piece of brass before dunking it, and a few days to cut with the acid. I know there's over five hours hand filing on this one, so far. And my fingertips are still recovering from the filing...
  5. This will be the grille (brass). To speed up the chemical cutting process I milled a hole in the center of each hexagon. The black is the vinyl resist. It was close to being fully etched at this point and if I left in the acid too much longer it would burn more away in some areas than I wanted. So it decided to hand file finish it. Several hours later with a small square file Ready for primer, and more filing to fine tune
  6. I also included the plate for the Entourage Lincoln on that sheet.
  7. I didn’t like the way the hood fit after I bolted the side panels on and fine-tuned the fit of the nose and cowl so I soldered a little more brass to the trailing edge. Primed and sanded it out. Now it fits much more uniformly. I also made the front hood latches from brass and styrene.
  8. There are multiple issues in your questions/comments. One issue is the art vs. the printing. Why some decals fit better or worse vs. why solvents do or dont work with them. Another issue is the differences from printer (printhouse) to printer. Cartograph is the best printer I have worked with regarding quality. The aforementioned Revell/Monogram decals that refused to comply with decal solvents were printed with a U.V. dried ink and they were incompatible with solvents. They were used quite a bit in the Nascar kits of the 90s as well. Regarding license plates, often even though plates are a standardized 12 X 6 inches, some kits have plates scaled to fit the model and look right and they may be off. As far as decals being printed in reverse for use inside windows, since white is the first color to go down on the sheet, a second printing of white would be needed at the end of the printing process to facilitate that. Also other colors might need to be printed out of order; usually it is lightest to darkest. While it could be done, it is cost prohibitive for most projects. I know of only one instance where white was printed twice (as the first and last color) on the same sheet, the R/M 78 Pace Vette reissued in 1996.
  9. Annual Model Car Contest in The Hangar building at the Costa Mesa Fairgrounds Sunday 8/31/14. Registration 9:00AM-12:00 Noon. Awards presentation at 2:00PM. http://www.occa-inc.com/generalinformation.asp
  10. I installed the ignition wires and added the studs, nuts and washers to the cam cover. I’ll add the lettering to the wires after the assembly is on the engine.
  11. Yes, it is nice to see it becoming a car... Made the bolts and washers that hold the lower panel (under the header) for the driver’s side body work.
  12. Once I had the wheels and body panels on, specifically the nose, I measured for the chin spoiler and started making it. I put a layer of tape on the nose where the spoiler will mount and then I CA cemented the sheet styrene spoiler onto that. I also cemented the center brace, (still needs to be shaped in these two shots). I added the mounting flanges and drilled them for the hardware then removed the assembly. Cleaned it up and painted it… Top: Bottom:
  13. Test fitting some body panels… They are not secured in these photos so they don’t line up as they will when properly installed to the frame.
  14. Test fitting the engine and header…
  15. Thanks Jason! The front fenders have been finished with a rubberized paint on the inboard sides and mounted to the spindle/brake assemblies. Ready to install onto the suspension arms…
  16. Return springs and a section of fuel line have been added. This assembly is ready to be installed onto the engine. Still a few details to add, like hose clamps and printing on the fuel line…
  17. Thanks! I made and installed the throttle cable.
  18. The tops of the carbs, ready to install. Brass for the fittings, wingnuts and hardware. The little flathead screws are stretched sprue with the slot cut into them.
  19. The carbs are mounted to the intake manifold and the linkages for the return springs are installed. I machined brass for those nuts and washers. Still a little more detail work before the tops of the carbs go on.
  20. I found it easier to build the linkage for both carbs onto and into the linkage for the front carb.
  21. That's pretty cool. Gary gave me credit for the decal art. Can't wait to see a sheet in person...
  22. After I made the mounting hardware for the carbs and manifold I switched to making the throttle linkage. Except for the aluminum nuts & bolts the linkage assembly is all made from sheet styrene. So far I have the front carb mounted to the intake and the bell crank mechanism installed.
  23. Thanks John! Brake hard lines. The small ones connect to the master; the line for the rear brakes goes into the firewall. Those are brass guides where the lines go through the body, not fittings.
  24. Adjustable Brake Proportioning Valve. 14 pieces of brass… 9 pieces of aluminum. Textured, painted and assembled…
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