Scale-Master
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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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The headers are two pieces of white metal each, well rendered too. And installed on the engine…
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In an effort to preserve the fiberglass resin color on the inside of the part that needed to be painted silver, I masked off all that will not be silver and shot a coat of tan on the exterior as a base before shooting the silver. Here it is after the silver base coat is applied.
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The rear fiberglass colored resin section was warped. I used a hair dryer to soften it and bent it into the approximate proper shape. Then I assembled the main chassis tub and pan parts together. After I did most of the body work and fitting of the top body sections I taped the body and chassis together making sure the resin pan was aligned properly to the rear body. Again I hit it with the hair dryer to soften the pan, and then I let it cool before removing the tape.
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The top of the airbox is made up of 3 pieces of white metal and 4 pieces of PE.
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I didn't buy this one, I don't know what it costs. The frame tubes are very thin, but not too brittle. When I was removing the support "sprues" a couple tubes broke, but I just glued them together before proceeding to remove the excess areas. Since I have been test fitting as I build, I have not had any fit issues that were surprises or not correctable. But I did have to do some moderate adjusting to get a few of the parts to fit correctly.
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The front frame assembly.
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The rear bulkhead.
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The fan is made from the same resin as the shroud and has a PE part as well.
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There was a little texture on the bottom of the front frame section, (the only one I cleaned up so far). But it is so minute and in areas that will not be visible once assembled it is not an issue. The little bit of it I cleaned up took only a matter of seconds.
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Yes, it is 1/43rd. The internal frame sections are 3D grown, not molded or cast; first time I’ve built a production kit that has that material from the factory. The thicker areas have to be cut away, but they were packed very safely and the material is very similar to resin, about the same effort to work with it.
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Model Factory Hiro kit. The parts are well done, and as far as white metal bodies it is one of the thinner castings Ive seen, but some clean-up is required. Here is the body after the basic flash has been removed, ready for primer. Note the bonnet is a separate piece. The engine is very well rendered especially for its diminutive size. Heres five pieces to make up the block, cylinders and transaxle, also all white metal. Here is a bit more added including a translucent cast resin piece for the shroud.
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It's done... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90489
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Hasegawa kit, built straight out of the box. I changed the interior color from what is noted in the directions to more closely resemble the way car looks now after a restoration. Tamiya TS-49 from the can for the body paint, no clear, just polished and waxed. I added the license plate and tags. WIP: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89969
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Thanks! Into the final stretch…
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Yes, and I could not agree with you more. The only way I could reconcile it is to build a stock Miura later. I'm not a fan of the bulbous rear fenders on this one either. Thanks guys!
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Since there is clear lacquer on the top of the decal paper water won't hurt it. It's getting it wet on the back (paper side) that would activate and release the decal. Once the decal glue from the top layer is dry, the "fresh" glue on the bottom layer lets loose from the paper much easier when it is wetted.
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The camera seems to be able to see this color better in less light… The glass is in and most of the black trim for the body is done.
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I decided not to clear coat it, so I just polished and waxed the paint. Installed the headlights and added the BMF. The A-pillars are very delicate on this model and the engraving is very light.
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Thanks Ray! Seats are done, French stitching and seat beat guides have been added. Ready to fit the harnesses to them.
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Yes, Harry you got it. Could not have said it better myself. And thanks guys!
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Thanks Brian. Applied to the seats… I still need to add some stitching to join all the panels.
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I am making a diamond tufted pattern for the seating surfaces. First I cut the pattern of properly spaced diamonds out of vinyl and applied them to a sheet of decal paper. Then I cut another set of diamonds, each about .020 smaller, and applied them individually to the vinyl already on the decal paper. (That is 262 pieces of vinyl per seat.) In this photo the left (the seat back) shows the two layers of vinyl on the decal paper. On the right is the lower seat cushion, it has a decal I made applied on top of the vinyl texture that contains the red stitching that runs between all the diamonds. Here are the textured decals ready to apply.
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It might come out looking a bit thick. The larger the scale the better the chances of it looking good. Also heat is used (like decal solvent) to get the vinyl to conform. Heat and a plastic body could be at odds with each other. A lot of it depends on the design.
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Where do you buy extra parts?
Scale-Master replied to SpencerC's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Usually the kits instructions will provide info to order replacement parts. If that isn't the case, or you don't have them, ask the store you purchased it from for help. -
Decal Set Substitute
Scale-Master replied to Narampa's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I can offer my reasoning Scott... If you have products that work and can get them, great. For a while my favorite decal solvent was nowhere to be found in any of the hobby shops, so I started experimenting with making my own. Vinegar can work for this purpose and is very inexpensive; the cost may also be an attractive benefit to some on a budget. Does it replace my standard "professional grade" solvents? No. But I like to have options. Just like I use window cleaner and ammonia for reducers in acrylic paints.