Scale-Master
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All kidding aside, I just realized… I did actually “scratch-build” some wire a couple months ago. (Pete, I think I told you about it at the meeting 5 weeks ago.) I made this 0.005 diameter “wire” from Schedule C PVC sprinkler pipe on my lathe. I also made some 0.009 diameter. That comes out about 18 & 20 gauge wire in 1/12 scale. It can be painted or dyed with sharpie or hi-lighter pen.
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I concur. Actually much of the wire I use comes from years of scavenging it from electronic devices, toys and junk. Some of the best ignition wire I have came from a remote-wire-controlled car toy; hairdryers often have insulated wires that look like braided hose. I do have a few spools from electronics stores, but just like the aluminum I buy from the metal yards, it too is raw material. Plus I have to make the plugs, looms and ends... and add the lettering.
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Well thanks Harry. Just to be clear, everything on this model is scratch-built. Every single piece made from raw materials. No aftermarket, no "modified kit parts". Time to mount the trans to the bellhousing. I beefed up the connection with brass rod and tubing (inside the trans).
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Me.I made it all from scratch, or raw materials if you prefer. The springs are wound from wire and the nuts, bolts, washers and studs I machined from 6061-T6 aluminum rod stock.
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I bolted the adaptor for the muffler to the collector and installed the gasket.
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I finished the header and collector, also added the mounting hardware and springs. The outermost two fasteners on the flange are studs with washers and bolts, the rest are just bolts with washers. I find it easier to install headers when they can be hung from a couple studs off the head. I also added a little dirt to the wrapping.
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It is a block off plate for the older version's mechanical fuel pump location.
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I made an asbestos insulator wrap for the header. I mixed a light metallic gray color and painted the tape to replicate the color of a brand I found that offers it in two inch and one inch widths.
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Yes, Very Nice! -
Thanks guys. Here's what I'll be bringing tonight... I made the dust plate and bolted it onto the bellhousing. The oil pan, starter and alternator have been installed. Also attached to the oil pan was the remote oil filter, some of the oil lines have been hooked up.
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Thanks Harry and Dan! The bellhousing and motor mounts have been bolted the block. The oil pump and distributor are installed. Pulleys for the belt that drives the water pump and alternator are installed. The dip stick and clutch slave cylinder are installed. Some hoses and plumbing have been started.
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Rusty Ferrari Barn Find
Scale-Master replied to 1930fordpickup's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I wouldn't call the breadvan a Bizzarrini either since it was built off a Ferrari 250 GT SWB (#2819), so I think it is still technically a Ferrari. -
Thanks Chris. Timing and oil pump drive set is done.
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Water pump and timing cover installed… Timing drive cogs and pulleys installed… Timing belt installed… Still need to make some more hardware/fasteners…
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Thanks Pete. It is a remote oil filter, it can be mounted almost anywhere. This is the final mounting location for both it and the alternator. Water pump (with alternator bracket) and timing cover. Oil pump. Well over 30 pieces, likely over 40. I know I machined 11 parts for it just today.
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1:1 might be easier since I would use a kit... Oil Pan with mounting hardware.
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Finished transmission. I know it is well into the hundreds for the parts count on this sub-assembly, but I have no actual number. Mostly styrene construction with several brass and aluminum pieces.
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Actually, they are from Jeg's. I keep old catalogs from the speed suppliers for period correct reference of sometimes obscure parts.
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As you can see, without the sun it is a much tamer paint job, and to me much more appropriate. The chassis is just a bland curbside promo unit. I didnt even paint it. I only did a little accent painting on the interior. I'd say I have about 3-5 hours total time invested in it. Considering that it is a complete finshed model, and I often spend entire days making individual parts for another model, "quick build" is the correct description of this one.
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Something quick and fun; I was in the mood to paint a body. AMT promo. Tamiya Metallic Black with Pearl Clear. Looks fine under fluorescent light, but goes bass boat/dune buggy glittery in the sun. I replaced the badging with decals I made, as well as adding the front side marker lights.
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I'm well past 1000 parts, I have no clue what the total parts count will be. As for the decals, I draw everything I print, I am "the source". (Look up Scale-Master Decals...) No "scan and edit", it is all vector art. I don't know if there is a place you can go to that has something ready to print; I do know that I don't offer such an option.
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Thanks Bill, coming from you that is quite a compliment. The alternator is pretty much done. I’ll add a couple more pieces of mounting hardware and wiring after it is installed on the engine. Since it sits down low, like the starter, I dirtied it up a little. It is made up of more than 30 pieces, mostly aluminum, but also milled resin, steel, brass and styrene.
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Thanks Ray, that's kind of what I'm going for. This is the battery, an Odyssey PC680. I milled the top from resin stock and built the bottom from sheet styrene. The terminals are brass and vinyl. I drew and printed the decals as well. This is the battery box/hold down. All brass, except the aluminum hardware. This assembly is made up of 50 pieces.
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I appreciate the info Chris, and I know Dave would not want to be caught in the middle of something like this, albeit so trivial (to me). However, I never thought or stated AMC and Studebaker were of the same family nor made an attempt to connect the two companies as you suggest despite the paint job and graphics on this fictional frivolous custom. I can understand your assumption, but the reality is this was done for a friend who sent me the Hot Wheels casting and asked me to adapt the R/W/B scheme from the Matador to the this casting. The scheme visually works to my eye. And while it might have been more appropriate on a Jeep Honcho, I'd put it on a Chevy or Ford or Toyota pick up had that been what was sent for repainting. I have done several "incorrect" cars this way. I have a Sunoco Celica in the works too, that is just as wrong since the Celica is equated more so to the Mustang than Camaro don't you think? As far as geographical difference, South Bend and Kenosha are about equal distances from where I am, so I consider it a moot point. (Insert smiley face emoticon) Sorry, but I will not rectify this apparent affront to the StudeFolk by repainting this one as it technically does not belongs to me. I apologize if any of them feel slighted, and if you'd like me to make a proper Stude, I'll be glad to take another stab at it and even work with you on the design. Dave can give you my email. And provided to me after the fact is this stretch of a connection: From the Studebaker Wikipedia article, occurring after the section about shutting down plant operations, and dealerships closing or adopting other brands: "Studebaker's General Products Division, which built vehicles to fulfill defense contracts, was acquired by Kaiser Industries, which built military and postal vehicles in South Bend. In 1970, American Motors (AMC) purchased the division, which still exists today as AM General."
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Battery box. Beginning of the battery