Scale-Master
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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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Not scanned, I drew and printed the decals. And thanks!
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Testors R/W/B paint, some custom decals and a set of my wheels and tires
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Thanks guys. I have done Mallory, Accel and MSD boxes before, so I wanted something different. Ready to be installed into the car; well, when the car is ready for it…
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Nice job. I've always liked that car, I did a model of one as it raced at Le Mans.
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Thanks Harry, I even put Allen heads on the end plates, just for you...
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This is the ignition box. Matches the coil… And this is the mounting plate with shock absorbing rubber grommets (on both sides). The coil bracket is already installed.
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The distributor is done. Same as with the coil, the plug wire boots are easier to deal with by attaching them now instead of to the wires. The boots are also cast in resin from the same master. I added the serial number/data plate and drilled the base for the control wiring.
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Here’s the finished coil. It’s easier to build with the coil wire boot on it now and I’ll just add the wiring after it is installed into the car. The boot is resin, cast off an aluminum master.
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These are the spark plug boots.
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This is the coil and mounting bracket. The coil is machined from brass rod and aluminum.
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Yeah, I guess I was out building my account, so I switched to another photo host. The older pictures should return on the 20th.
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This will be the ignition box. Crane Fireball HI-6. I milled it from a chunk of leftover resin.
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Clutch slave cylinder. Brass & aluminum.
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That is a nice piece.
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Oil filter. Raw, unfinished parts. I date the filter with a Marks-A-Lot when I do an oil change on my real cars too… Dirtied it up just a little. And added the oil pressure sender and a couple fittings.
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Having built a few Pocher's myself..., I tend to think if I'm going to do that much work to build a kit it might be easier to just build from scratch. At least that way you aren't so surprised at the things that don't fit, and even more surprised at what is considered instructions. Any kit with the caveat in the foreword that says you should expect to unbuild and rebuild ostensibly because the instructions are all over the place is likely to be frustrating. All that said, nice work on this one Cato.
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The passenger will have to be the cup holder... These are the main parts for the starter and solenoid, 17 individual parts not counting the wires or the plug, mostly brass; 7 parts in the solenoid cap alone. A little grunge and wear was added after I assembled it. It is about ½ inch long.
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The fire extinguisher and holder are done…
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With all that work I couldn’t very well allow a floating alternator now could I? The upper mounting/tensioner. Mounted to the water pump.
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This way I am able to cut the teeth of the belt to fit perfectly to the cogs. I have some of the printer belts you mention, but all I have seen are the wrong size (too big) and even more difficult to work as a material (too soft). It worked fine on the last one made...
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Thanks. While the zip-tie works, it is really just the source of the material. None of the actual outer surfaces of the zip-tie are left. I made the pulleys for the fan belt. It turns only the water pump and alternator off the crank. There is a fan, but it is only for the alternator. I also made some of the rear details for the alternator. Not that it will be seen behind the fan especially once installed in the car, but I added some armature detail too.
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The cogged cam drive belt was machined from a nylon zip-tie. I built a little jig to instill a memory to it.
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The idlers for the cam and oil pump drive are done…
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All of the above and more, plus access to a real Seven. Having built (and even finished...) a couple real cars and fabricating parts for them doesn't hurt either.
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Thanks guys! I had to make the cam drive cogs before I make the pulley set. More milled aluminum…
