Scale-Master
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It's not that I haven't been working on it every day Pete, it just takes time make something worth showing. These are most of the raw acid cut brass lap belt buckles. Here is the seatbelt hardware set after it has been “powder coated” semi-gloss black. The belts and hardware have been assembled. The shoulder belts have pull down adjusters; the lap belts are the pull up style.
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No, it's a little Hot Wheels. More like 1/64th scale.
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Decal Set Substitute
Scale-Master replied to Narampa's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It doesn't always work on all decals. The best luck I've had with it was on thinner decals that did not require very much stretching. -
It's sprue, or sprues, not spruce. Spruce is a kind of wood. Flash is excess plastic that flows out of the mold on the edges of parts. More common on older kits, but still happens even on new kits. Knock out marks or ejection pin marks are the usually round or half moon shaped depressions where the mold ejects the parts during production.
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Another Hot Wheels... I know this theme has been done before, but I thought Id take a stab at it myself. Except for the insignias, nose art and lettering decals, it is all paint over the bare metal of the casting. The checker board on the nose is hand painted as well. The panel lines were air brushed on and the rivets were done with a fine point pen. I was going for a weathered used look; similar to how some of the early Tuskegee planes (note the red tails) were delivered after their first round use.
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I think this thread is in essence the same as a book Gary... I'm significantly south of those areas Shaun. Thanks Art.
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Very nice work Bill!
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Thanks, but unfortunately this is not that Jota. This model builds the Jota later customized from a Miura, and not by Lamborghini. It is more of a show car than an actual race car as the original Jota was. I think the Miura is a much better looking machine.
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Thanks guys. I mixed the main colors for the interior with Desert Yellow and Gold Tamiya acrylics as well as Desert Yellow enamel for minor shade differences. The molded interior doesn’t match the photos of the real car, so painting some of the details will have to be a little different. The engine doesn’t have a lot of retail, but since it is a curbside I suspect it has more than it needs. The interior is finished.
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It is looking very very nice, and I don't want to come off sounding like I'm picking on the work, but the interior front door panels are from a two door, and the Vista Cruiser had the shorter four door front doors. From the body exterior that area looks right, but the interior panels for the front doors are too long. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I owned and restored one. I almost did the same paint scheme (in blue/white) when I repainted it, but decided to go with the wood paneling again. All in all, it's still the best Vista Cruiser model I've seen done.
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Modeling disaster stories?
Scale-Master replied to JPS_Lotus's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I'm with NiteOwl's perspective on this. Similar thing just happened to me Saturday just after the final wet coat of Tamiya spray. The tape let go and the body fell off the stick onto the table and then onto the carpeted floor and bounced to the hard floor area boogering up every corner and collecting some debris. I let it dry overnight, sanded out the damage and washed it. Once dry I built up light spot coats on the damaged areas over the course of an hour (during the Indy 500). Then I shot one last final coat. Yesterday it looked like this. Keep practicing, it is the best way to learn. -
This is the Hasegawa kit. While Im building it straight out of the box, I am changing the interior color from what is noted in the directions to more closely resemble the way car looks now after a restoration. The body is fairly crisp and delicate, but the body panel lines were a bit soft, when I cleaned up the flash and sink marks I also scribed the lines deeper. Ready for final prime and then some color Tamiya Bright Red straight from the can for the exterior Seems to be giving my camera a challenge, its blurry or blinded, even after drying overnight.
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Some of the texture is exaggerated somewhat so it will be visible when installed into the car in hard to see areas. Also my camera tends to make the texture look a bit more harsh than it looks to the naked eye. And thanks! Yes, I sleep, and work, and drink coffee...
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Plum Crazy vs Plum Crazy?
Scale-Master replied to Joe Handley's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I'm not debating whether PPG was the paint provider back in the day, but the original cars were not clear coated. Many of the original colors from the '60 and 70's cannot be reproduced exactly with todays paints, pigments and toners. Often though, they look prettier than the original, but that is a matter of opinion. -
Thanks Luke! Finished oil tank and overflow.
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Why any concern of mentioning it Dan? I'm missing any logic there. I added the clamp mechanism to the oil tank as well as some of the line fittings and the cap to the overflow tank. The brackets have the mounting hardware installed and are painted.
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Oil overflow tank and mounting bracket. Also aluminum and brass.
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Thanks Pete. Started putting some junk in the trunk…
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Plum Crazy vs Plum Crazy?
Scale-Master replied to Joe Handley's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The two colors (old & new) are completely different. The new color is more vibrant and glossier than the original. True factory original early Plum Crazy painted cars are very rare these days. I have it from a trusted source that many original cars were repainted early in their lives due to the poor wear characteristics of the original Plum Crazy paint, sometimes a different color. Most that have been repainted even in the supposed original shade are better looking and glossier than the old factory paint too, and often not the same exact shade. -
Thanks Dan. Oil tank and mounting assembly. Tank is aluminum, mount is brass.
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Seriously, that car is technically totaled. You don't think the way it was driven was at least as bad as it was decorated? I'd even bet it only has had one oil change in its life.
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Glad I could help Chas. I decided to “brand” the tire iron… This is the finished rear end. A bit of dirt and grime ready to be installed into the frame…
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Tire iron. Mostly brass, aluminum for the bit. Yes, it fits the lugs and functions as a real wrench. It’s a small one, only a foot long.
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Fuel tank. Yes, even the wire is scratch-built…
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Shaun - It’s not that I decided I needed to make the “wire”, was making something else and that was the by product. (But I’m always on the lookout for fine wire and recognized how useful this “free” stuff could be.) I made a bunch of it once I figured it out. Chas – This photo pretty much explains it. Five pieces of brass tubing soldered together. The four collector tubes were bevel cut on the rear ends and soldered; then the center piece was added. Once I was done cleaning it up with emery cloth it I soldered the flange onto it.