Scale-Master

I look forward to seeing it. But remember, the bumpers on this car are nothing like the factory GM units. Compare to the Brute Force car, not a GM Camaro/kit part. Brass is all well and good, but I found it easier to make the under structure for the deck lid from sheet styrene... Once it is cemented in it provides plenty of strength, in fact since plastic to plastic bonds better than brass to plastic, it might be better.

Yes, that is a significant part of it Chas. I have seen several models reduced to rubble from travel, (one poorly engineered example supposedly shook itself apart on a drive down the 405...) But over time styrene can sag too, just sitting in the showcase, especially when encumbered with other heavier (metal) parts. I found that out the hard way... But the real concern for me is the inherent rigidity and predictability that brass provides for a long term build. I know the metal parts I make this year will still fit next year or later. Plus soldered brass is far stronger than glued plastic. Build a strong core/infrastructure…, even if it seems like it takes longer it really doesn’t in the grand scheme (if you do it right...).

Harry, No, this project would not work with styrene. A Tamiya kit has a nearly one piece molded ABS frame. A glued together styrene one would fail when coupled with the other plans I have for this. I choose the materials I think will work best for the application(s). For the quality I am striving for, brass is a far better choice than styrene. I have worked with both materials, (there is a reason so many people use brass for this type of model making). In the long run the use of brass will provide a more stable and stronger chassis that will result in less repair work than one made of styrene. That equates to less time. Plus in order to mount the other metal parts to it, I need the strength. Right off the bat I can guarantee styrene would not be strong enough to make the motor mounts I made today work. If I took the approach that since you can’t tell what it is made of once it is done so I can make it cheaper or easier, my models would not look or last the way they do. Chris, I am using a butane pencil type, resistance and a torch.

I made the motor mounts and soldered them to the frame. They are made of brass rod and acid etched brass sheet. Also added the cross member for the trans mounting point.

Not so fast... From the Dorchester Reporter: "The director of the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum says that a 3 p.m. fire inside the building's mechanical room was not caused by a device and is apparently not related to the explosions at the Boston Marathon finish line. Tom Putnam, the director of the JFK Library, said that the incident was confined to a mechanical room near the archive section of the library."

There is no one correct answer. Some real cars are better finished than others, and when in a timeline makes a difference too. Pre-race versus post-race for example. Plus often presentation and restored cars are detailed better than workhorse race cars. I have seen some race cars that look shabby, others that look fantastic, at least before the race. Then you have the issue of when you scale something down, the surface becomes finer, maybe definable as shinier. And that is somewhat subjective too. As far as “contest models”, what defines them from other models? I’m not sure why different approaches need to be taken if that was what you were getting at. Build it the way you want it to look for yourself, and if you are building for someone else, find out what they want and try to match that. If you are building to please some arbitrary judges, you’re on your own; I got nothing for that… While it is true that many (most?) of the older cars were not clear coated, it doesn’t mean that by using clear it is automatically not going to give you the desired results. Just as many real cars that are clear coated can be realistically replicated in scale using other paint methods, and no clear. Factor in decals with different sheens than paints, and other inconsistencies… To me, each project needs to be assessed on its own merits.

I see you are going in the right direction, but if it were me, I'd err on making the bumper too thin as opposed to heavy. Are you bringing it to GSL even if it is not done?

Building box stock is a great way to hone your skills, but 100% scratch-built has its rewards too...

It might just be the angle or lighting, but it looks like you might want to shave the bumpers down some Chas. They look a bit thick, and when you continue the bumper through the grille area, it will look even heavier. Easier to address now than later...

Thanks Steven. These (both the XJR 7s I posted today) were shot with Zero Paints urethane clear, (two-part plus reducer). I usually use The Matrix two part clear. But the clear I used on the decals (salvage before application) was acrylic and allowed to dry a full 24 plus hours. That quote was inspired by member(s) here on this very forum...

Thanks guys! More progress on the frame… This section plugs into the rear of the main frame. …as well as fine tuning the fit of the body to the frame.

Provence Moulage resin kit. The other of two Tullius Jags I built as a pair… Decals were one year less as old as the ’86 (like the kit) but were just as bad, also salvageable by clear coating before application. Both greens on both cars needed some touch up.

Provence Moulage resin kit. Decals were old (like the kit) but were salvageable by clear coating before application. They still cracked, but were at least usable. One of two Tullius Jags I built as a pair…

I was given some bronze scrap from the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland. The stock was the right size for the part (same reason I used to make the Weber carb master with it), no other reason. The DeDion is standard on Caterhams/Sevens. I was tinkering with putting a narrowed C4/5 Corvette rear suspension in, but didn't think it was something appropriate for this one.

Thanks Bill! I added the upper link mounting brackets and drilled pilot holes for the shock mounting bosses.

Thanks guys! Lower mount soldered onto DeDion tube.

This piece is mostly bronze with two brass parts. It is the lower mount.

Beginning of the rear section of the frame, this hoop fits into the rear body. It is much longer than a standard Super 7 to accommodate the added bodywork and trunk. I started on the rear suspension. More brass… This will be the DeDion tube.

No offense, but just because someone famous says it is, doesn’t mean it really is. Unless it is a famous spokesperson for the manufacturer unveiling it… And in this case, it is not.

Didn't anyone learn from the last debate/discussion about the new Corvette that until the manufacturer unveils it, it is just rampant speculation based on fantasy?

At least with this one you could build a reasonably accurate replica with an out-of-the-box Deal's Wheels ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ/28.

I just re-read it from the beginning; I’d suggest you do too, if you have the time. Quite enlightening… Almost two years ago this thread was started. It is very interesting how many of the points originally made in this thread have continued to be repeated even with so many agreeing that the specific reactionary behavior discussed is not befitting or conducive to the forum. It looks like most people who have commented in this thread “get it”, yet we see the same “total Whiney-the-pooh characters” (Credit to Mr. White) still permitted to not follow what seems like the constructive mentality espoused by both the majority of the members and the staff. Dare I say, "the rules"? (To the point of causing the forum to be shut down twice since this thread began.)

That is some beautiful brass work!

If you include a line on the entry forms to state what the kit manufacturer is you can weed out a lot of people who did not build what they are trying to enter. (You will need to know the subjects somewhat too.) Also, if you engage the entrants in a little small talk when they are registering (how they built it, what kind of paints did they use, etc), you can tell who actually did the work...

We have made use of "real car guys" to judge our shows in the past. We learned that unless they are also "model car guys" the same problems you are facing will arise. Many of them simply don't know enough about the hobby to discern the difference between factory built die-casts and hand built kits. We have had several people try to enter die-casts over the years, (some that were purchased at the show and unboxed right in front of us). It is up to the staff to know what they are judging and not let people enter things that do not meet the criteria of the rules.