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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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Thanks Bill. I am pretty close to being done with the master for the Weber carbs. There’s about 60 pieces to make this part, maybe a few more… The hardware will machined for each individual carb after I cast copies.
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That is really coming along nicely! Looks brutally tough too.
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Just milled it on my Sherline with a 1/32 inch end mill. No CNC, just planning. I added the sidewall detail and lettering…
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This is the beginning of the tire master. Again I utilized PVC from the hardware store; this time a plumbing fitting that was just about the right size. It was a little thin on material where I wanted to make the sidewall, so I built it up with some CA so I could have more curvature to the sidewall. I cut the sidewall on the lathe freehand but used traditional tools to cut the bead; the tread was cut on the mill. The tread is patterned after an Advan tire.
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Sort of... I use Illustrator... And thanks!
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That is a simplistic way to put it Pete, but in general, yes. Getting the vinyl off the brass as well as the adhesive requires some clean up time, and depending on the part and registration there are varying degrees of clean up. Some parts come out ready to use, most need at least a little sanding or filing, maybe some drilling and reaming of holes… I’ll try to remember to shoot some “fresh from the tank” pics of parts next time I make some.
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Guardsman Blue matching color...
Scale-Master replied to Brizio's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think that color looks a bit too dark for Guardsman Blue. -
The acid isn't printed or applied to the brass as I think you are assuming. The brass is soaked in the acid. A resist is applied to the brass to protect it from the acid. Where the resist is becomes a part. The rest of the brass is eaten away by the acid.
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Starting custom zr1................. Need ideas!
Scale-Master replied to blackace183's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Well, it was supposed to have been built by a high school kid in the story, so doesn't its styling and choice of bolt-on parts fit? -
These are the seat belt adjuster buckles for the shoulder harnesses. More acid etched brass cut from my artwork. I cut lines into them (about half the thickness of the brass) to aid in the folding and positioning of other parts to be soldered on later. These are the seat belt anchor pieces also cut from brass. Still a little clean up needed, but this is close to how they look fresh from the acid etching.
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Converting the Red Barron to the Black Knight
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in WIP: Model Cars
I know exactly what you are saying Pete... And I agree. Also, the new spring looks great. -
Here is the windshield frame and rearview mirror. Each is made of three pieces of brass soldered together. The rim for the face has been acid cut and soldered onto the mirror. Still needs some clean up and trueing before painting and installation of the mirror face.
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I don't mind sharing, but it involves being able to design and output your own art in a format that can be transferred to the raw brass. We’re not talking clip art grabbed off the net or a scanned image of some part you want to copy. This makes making decals look easy, (at least to me). While the chemicals are relatively economical, albeit corrosive, the front end work of creating the art and then creating the resist and applying it to the brass stock is where the real work and hardware investment is. Without a good vector based graphics program (and the knowledge to use it) and a high resolution laser printer or plotter and the ancillary media to output the artwork to, a tutorial won’t help.
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Nicely done! Looks like you validated your theory. Until you did it, I did not see the old Cobra within the "Venom".
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Thanks Bill. This is the beginning of the intake manifold. It is all brass soldered together. Mounting surfaces are acid cut and the tubes are just K&S stock cut and machined to fit. This is the carb master and manifold dry fitted to the head.
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Want To know these things
Scale-Master replied to raildogg's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I am in the process of making a master for a tire. The one I am making has 30 tread blocks running the circumference. That means they are 12 degrees apart. Since my tire is a 205/50R15 I can't say if a larger or smaller tire has the same size blocks, but more or less of them, or if all the tires in this particular series share the mathematical equation. -
Same here.
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The base flanges have been added, they are made from acid cut brass from artwork I drew. I also added the intake side flanges…
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Design and decals, yes.
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This is the start of the top of the carb…
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Oh yeah..., it smoked and stunk when I soldered the brass tubing to it. That was my first clue it had some type of contamination inpregnated into it. I didn't try to anneal it it since I was machining it, not forming it.
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Chas, you don’t see that the real car has no raised body trim molding where the kit body had it molded onto the body? See where the white arrows are indicating where a stock Chevy II had the chrome trim strip (like you still have on your model just painted not chromed) and on the Runt it was removed completely?
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For what exactly? I used the bronze because it was a large enough chunk to machine the carb body from. As I recall slot car pick ups (if they are what I think you are referring to) are thin like foil, not applicable for this project.
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Converting the Red Barron to the Black Knight
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in WIP: Model Cars
Clear lights would be my suggestion as well. Any color would be a distraction. Are you going to clean up that lower edge of the radiator opening? Looks like removing about 0.010 with a flat bastard file could fix it. Looking very good.