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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
    Matt

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  1. If you've used Tamiya primer and Tamiya TS acrylic spray paint, then really you want to be using Tamiya TS-13 clear over the top. Many paint ranges will mix and match, but you can't guarantee it, and it's so much easier just to use compatible paints from the off. It also makes a big difference how old your cans are -- how long have you had the "Wet Look Clear? If you apply the paint and clear coat right, there's really no need to sand primer, base coat and clear through all of those finer and finer grits... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for
  2. I've completely switched to Stynylrez for Zero 2K finishes. I think it's too rough for Tamiya rattle-cans, which I use Tamiya Fine Surface for, but for Zero, where the base coat is meant to be matt anyway, it's fine. It's a great barrier between coloured plastic and a 2K system top coat, and the colour choice is wide. I just flush with lots of water, back flush and use a final "universal" (IPA, water and a bit of detergent) airbrush cleaner for clean up. The good thing is that if at any point you think your airbrush isn't clean enough, an ultrasonic cleaning bath and some "floor wax" or genera
  3. I think pretty much every paint booth I’ve ever seen has that “problem”, including mine. It’s never caused me issues. I have a big plastic box upside down on a nearby table that the model goes under immediately it’s painted… best, M.
  4. Sounds like you already have it built, but if you can take it apart, then get some silicone “Plastic Parts Grease” from a bike shop and use that everywhere. It needs to be the specific stuff, because other lubricant may weaken the kit parts and cause them to break. best, M.
  5. Toys.... yup: Not serious, clearly .... There's no glue and no filler in this model, just a few paint effects. The engineering and design quality is extraordinary. There are a few nit-picky inaccuracies in the plumbing and wiring of the engine, but do not underestimate the care the people who designed and tooled this have for the original. Meng's entire range speaks to a bunch of people with a deep interest in the hobby and a passion for their subjects, with some limits on their access to prototypes, but huge enthusiasm for new ways of building kits. Their 1/72 F-
  6. Looking great. I shall follow closely for tips to use when I do mine. Given that the back end doesn’t open, I’m sure the engine will be absolutely fine! best, M.
  7. Anyone know if it’s available through Zinio for an iPad, like FSM? I’ll never find a paper copy over here, but I’m happy to buy it electronically if I can. (I’ve tried searching Zinio for FineScale and Restomods, but all I get is the regular monthly mag, and nothing for Restomod. best, M.
  8. If it’s engineered the same way as the 1/12th version, it’s trivial to flip the outer side of the brake disc, leaving the grooves invisible inside and a smooth surface on the outer side, as it should be... best, M.
  9. Read any of the books or watch the restorers videos, and one of the things you’ll hear pretty quickly is that those non-repro/continuation GT40s are all different. Shelby and Holman Moody built them up differently with fittings and components in different places, joints and fixings done differently. And the cars continued to evolve through their lives. There’s a pretty good chance that the #1 and #2 cars weren’t the same when they sat next to each other on the grid. The best you can hope for is to have good reference of the specific car you want to build on the occasion you want to depict
  10. It looks from the CAD as if they’ll leave you to do your own wiring and plumbing. 90% of what’s “wrong” with the 1/12 version are the start and/or end points of the hoses or wiring harness. And 90% of that 90% isn’t obvious or even visible when it’s built. So if you’re doing it yourself, you can fix all that (for the specific car you’re building, since there’s no such thing as standard in the originals) and it’ll be as accurate as you can make it... best, M.
  11. A lovely build of a real classic car. Beautifully finished and detailed. best, M.
  12. Thanks @Dann Tier those boxes are the “boot” or “trunk” demanded by the 1960s Le Mans regulations. Goodness know what you could put in them without cooking it, but hey... They are a “hangover” like the spare wheel (handy ballast if carefully placed) and the second “co-driver” seat which only a midget could fit in (see Porsche 917...) best, M.
  13. So, I have been painting lots of pale blue, some of it less successfully than other bits, hence slow progress... but at last, progress there has been. Still no glue, no filler, and some well-hidden screws! best, M.
  14. It really captures the look of the original very well: best, M.
  15. Yes. It’s a good kit that builds into a great-looking model. The hardest part of using the etch is building the “egg-crate” grille. This is how I did it on mine: best, M.
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