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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
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  1. Or the one in Repo Man, or in Ronin… it has the Macguffin in… best, M.
  2. You might need to fall back on some sheet styrene (or old credit card) and some tube stock (or a cheap ball point pen barrel). You’ve got the other side to use as templates, and the individual parts that are short shot are symmetrical, so you only need to draw round them to copy them. I may be wrong, but that seems a more likely solution than someone having a whole spare frame rail they don’t need… best, M.
  3. Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland does Dunlop steel wheels as well, if you are happy to go through the hoops to order from them… best, M.
  4. You had to buy a special bonnet (hood) with a dish and mounting point. The “normal” fitting for a pick-up style hard or soft top is in the bed on the rear cab bulkhead. On a station wagon it’s usually the rear door, but that puts a lot of strain on the door hinges (steel wheel with tyre is HEAVY), so many have it there but with a substantial carry brace. The bonnet mounting does limit visibility, and you do NOT want to be working in the engine bay with the wheel still above you on the open hood! The one place you’ll never find it is on the cab roof. Serious Army combat softskins had frames to
  5. “Actually, any pastel color looks good on it.” I guess now we know where Nissan got their colour choices for the Figaro from! best, M.
  6. Firefly Buffy The West Wing Blackadder (seasons 2,3 and especially 4) Leverage Hustle Coupling (how you get completely logically to the show ending punch line: “I’m holding the keys to paradise in my hand and I’ve got one too many legs”) Lupin Drive to survive Phineas and Ferb Black Books The Avengers best, M.
  7. The latest Zumbrunn book (“Lost Beauties”) has a photoshoot of the Marilyn Monroe 56 TBird, which is also pink, though a more restrained lipstick pink rather than this amped up Barbie version. The MM car actually looks remarkably tasteful… best, M.
  8. Hi... I'm not sure Harry ever did build one, but John Teresi's awesome build is here: best, M.
  9. Well, my policy of setting the price I'm prepared to offer on the 'bay and bidding over and over on different auctions finally paid off. I've been after one of these for a long time, and finally got it for a sensible (to my mind) price: That just about does it for the Fujimi Enthusiast kits that I've been chasing. Now I just need to build them... best, M.
  10. Absolutely beautiful… a really lovely job. Great work matching your friends car, and your photography really does it justice. best, M.
  11. Republic RF-84F Thunderflash, reconnaissance version of the F-84F Thunderstreak, not to be confused (except by Congress money-men) with the earlier F-84 Thunderjet… best, M.
  12. That looks absolutely stunning. Brilliant build of a very challenging kit, and stellar photography as well. Apologies if I missed the WIP, but any tips you have for building one, getting that kind of result and retaining your sanity would be much appreciated by the rest of us with one in the stash! Well done! best, M.
  13. I think you've made an excellent job of those Esci kits -- they look as goodd as they are ever going to without major surgery, and the Italeri is much better. Not wanting to hijack your thread, but for the sake of comparison, this is the Gunze: And, well... we all know whose "model" this is... best, M.
  14. If you've used Tamiya primer and Tamiya TS acrylic spray paint, then really you want to be using Tamiya TS-13 clear over the top. Many paint ranges will mix and match, but you can't guarantee it, and it's so much easier just to use compatible paints from the off. It also makes a big difference how old your cans are -- how long have you had the "Wet Look Clear? If you apply the paint and clear coat right, there's really no need to sand primer, base coat and clear through all of those finer and finer grits... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for
  15. I've completely switched to Stynylrez for Zero 2K finishes. I think it's too rough for Tamiya rattle-cans, which I use Tamiya Fine Surface for, but for Zero, where the base coat is meant to be matt anyway, it's fine. It's a great barrier between coloured plastic and a 2K system top coat, and the colour choice is wide. I just flush with lots of water, back flush and use a final "universal" (IPA, water and a bit of detergent) airbrush cleaner for clean up. The good thing is that if at any point you think your airbrush isn't clean enough, an ultrasonic cleaning bath and some "floor wax" or genera
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