Scale-Master

I milled the mounting hardware for the intake manifolds and then added them to the engine. It's almost ready to install into the chassis.

Painted the fittings and assembled it… Made the overflow tank too.

Thanks Andre and John! I machined the oil tank and all the ancillary parts for it.

Thank you David! A little paint and a couple custom made decals and they are coming to life.

Thanks Pete! Get a load of this... I got the ignition parts back from the grower. I'm impressed with what he could do with my files. The coil actually slides onto the mount as a full sized one would. I still need to make some hardware and the decals.

I finished the header. Added the studs/washers/bolts to the head flanges as well as a gasket. The welds were added to the joints where the tail pipe and connector pipe meet the muffler. The finished exhaust system.

Muffler & tail pipe. With heat shield and connector pipe.

The connector pipe between the header and muffler is done. I machined the hardware (with lock nuts) and made a gasket too.

The battery is done, slightly weathered/dirtied up. (I can't attach the cables until I know how to route them after I install it.) The top terminals are scaled correctly so the positive one is a hair larger diameter than the negative post. I drew all the art and printed the decals.

I finished making the battery cables for the side terminals. (The hex heads are the correct size.)

I milled flanges to attach the exhaust system to the header.

The pipes were bent from brass tubing. The rear bracket is brass sheet.

The muffler was machined and etched with the logo.

1/12 scale Caterham.

Thank you David! Heat shield for the muffler rough cut from brass and reinforced with aluminum rings.

Side terminal connectors for the battery made from brass.

Thanks Guido! The header had already been modified to work with the other LHD converted pieces from when I wrote the Scale Auto article chronicling how to do it. It was in two pieces still as it comes in the kit. I cemented them together and filled the seam and ejection pin holes. The flanges have been drilled to accept the mounting hardware (that I still have to make).

The master cylinder is done. The cap was machined as were the fittings and mounting hardware. The seals between the reservoir and cylinder were made from soft vinyl. The decals were drawn and printed by me.

I finally got around to bolting the starter onto the engine. Just needed to make the hardware…

I added the side terminals to the top and notched the rib in the main body to match.

Today's project was to make this Mallory HyFire6 ignition box in SolidWorks.

Thanks for the kind words Tim! The ribs around the top and bottom (with correct notches) have been added as well as the end details (flat panels).

"Made" this for it today. Designed a Mallory ProMaster Coil in SolidWorks. Then I made the factory mount to go with it. I'll have them grown separately and assemble them to this configuration, and then add my own milled hardware and wiring.

I know you are wrong on this, I suspect you just made it up. There is no way anyone at Round2 who knows anything would tell you 'We don't know how to make them." as you claim. If that were the case, kindly explain how they managed to mold (quite well I may add) the recently released Piranha set with clear bodies (in clear and yellow tint). I know the reason(s) why they opt to not reissue some kits with clear bodies. But your claim is downright misinformation.

I milled the top of the battery so it snaps onto the brass body of it.