Scale-Master

Yes, I'm a patternmaker and last year I switched to SolidWorks from the old school way I have been doing it. Right now my projects are car bodies that will be injection molded using my 3D designs. And thanks Chris! I know you can relate. After 10+ hours a day in SW it's nice to work with actual parts as opposed to the virtual ones.

Thanks John. Never stopped building, actually been finishing 3 kits a month (or more) plus making 3D patterns for mass production. These are the assembled front rotors/hubs.

I'm doing a lot of "wrong" with these Sevens... The front hubs are assembled. Again acid was used to make the final finish. The studs are the only thing I used from the kit and are a press in fit.

To a certain degree it can be polished, but it has a gray tone to it. It won't polish up like a shiny wheel for example. It also reacts with the acid I'm using to texture and finish some of the other aluminum parts.

The aluminum resin has some interesting properties and machines pretty well. I milled a set of aluminum hubs for the front brakes. The parts at the bottom of the photo have been acid dipped to create the finish.

I usually start with the wheels and brakes on these reworked or fabricated Sevens, this one is no exception. I milled these cross-drilled directional carbon rotors from raw stock I cast out of aluminum impregnated resin.

This was a factory built Caterham model from Tamiya I bought in 2002 so I could display it next to the Red Super Seven I built and heavily modified/detailed to show the difference between what the kit builds straight from the box and the changes I did. I took it apart and I am going to make it Left Hand Drive along with some other upgrades. I had already begun tinkering with it when I took this picture of it looking like a pile of junk.

I thought the OP's modifications might work just fine, especially as a model. Made me think it could be a Lincoln or upscale version based on much of the same mechanicals. If there were a "Like" button I'd have used it a few times in this thread. And I'd probably still made the above comment...

I almost added a couple words to the rear...

It is 100% out-of-the-box and it has an engine. Accurate? No. But not too visible once installed either. Best I can tell is it is a mash up of a small block and a 409, even though the graphics say 396 suggesting a big block. I know the person it is for will enjoy it and I had fun building it as a simple diversion from other projects.

Just a quickie that will be given away as a present. A lot more fun than I expected, but then I also put more work into it than will ever be seen. Good slump-buster kit, even if you’re not in a slump…

Hi Paul, long time. Great to see you here!

Turns out my earlier concerns about the seat material were warranted as it was just powder on the carrier paper, so I had to paint the seat areas. All done now…

If you compensate me for my time and materials I can make more of them.

88 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa CA, 92626 OC Fair & Events Center, Building 10 Model Car Contest Registration is from 9:00AM-12:00 Noon Awards Presentation is at 2:00PM 14 categories. Trophies, Model Kits and other model related goodies are awarded to the winners. Trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd place. Plus Trophies and Awards for: Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Finish and Best of Show Sponsored by: Scale-Master Decals Round 2 Models Scale Auto Magazine Scale Motorsport Brookhurst Hobbies Tamiya Models Revell-Monogram Models Prestige Hobbies Evett's Model Shop Model Car Contest Info: http://www.cruisinforacure.com/model-car-contest/ General Show Info: http://www.cruisinforacure.com/

Now that the touch up and decaling is done I can move on to the final assembling of it. I painted the seat areas black in case the material doesn’t fit 100%. This is the “bad” side that took most of the effort to touch up. Certainly not perfect, but way better than it was, and acceptable for this project.

Thanks. Those were made as individual units, to make more would be the same drawn out process. Those spanned a month to make and took several days of work between the machining, fabrication and artwork.

Finally got the chrome trim done and waxed the body.

Thanks Chris, when I drive this one sometimes I feel like I'm back in that time too. In fact I'm just about to take a time trip in it after I post this... I finally got around to polishing some of the body parts. First I sanded the hood stripes smooth then hit it with some Tamiya wax.

That Suzuki is a nice kit, but requires a little more effort than this one and the newer kits. I mixed Italian Red with Cream to try to match the color of the decals and airbrushed the bulk of the red areas. I hand painted the edges since I could not mask on the decals. Not perfect, but better. I still have to add the Bimota decals and then clear it.

Upon further inspection of the decals and instructions, my concerns about the ghosting of the decals through the Bimota lettering probably won’t be an issue because the kit provides extra lettering decals in white. Unfortunately where the red panels overlap on the tank darker colored blocks are created.

The Annual Great Labor Day Cruise Model Car Contest. Sunday September 4th 2016 88 Fair Dr. Costa Mesa Costa Mesa Fairgrounds, CA 92626 14 Categories. Awards for1st, 2nd 3rd place winners and Best Of Awards. In addition there will be kits for many winners. Up to five entries per person. Pay at the gate for the cruise, no additional charges for the model contest. Find the contest at the back wall inside of The Hangar Building. Registration 9:00AM-12:00Noon Awards by 2:00PM

The decals are very workable and I have not had any cracking issues. I put the two side decals on first as shown in the instructions, unfortunately those two decals are about 0.030 too long and when the top decal was applied a ghost image of the stripes showed up in the Bimota lettering. Not terrible, but if I knew ahead of time…

Thanks Chris! I made the Wink mirror by milling some smoke colored plexiglass to make the base for the mirror panels. Then boxed them with some 0.010 sheet styrene. The mirror faces are made of Mylar. And a custom decal to replicate the stickers on the front side…

The water temp and oil pressure gauges I machined a couple weeks ago have been installed in their little under dash panel. The switch for the driving lights has been added to where the cigarette lighter used to be. A crush sleeve was machined from aluminum and added between the steering wheel and column. I’m calling the dash done for now.