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RickRollerLT1

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Posts posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. Revell-Monogram 1/25th kit circa 1998. Kit was missing quite a few pieces, but regardless modifications are as followed:

    Kit's dashboard was lacking instrument gauges,  ones were added using unused Revell Datsun 240z decals

    Kit's side glass pieces were missing, so mesh screening pieces were used in their place

    Custom LT1 style fuel injection setup made from an AMT 94 Camaro manifold and a 67 Impala Prostreet 427 intake

    Edlebrock valve covers from AMT '34 Ford 350 V8. Air Filter is unknown piece from parts bin.

    Kit was missing headers, so ones were gathered using stock headers from a Revell '57 Ford motor, which give it a custom look and fit the ports on the heads nicely.

    To accommodate the new headers, a new exhaust system was made. Plastic spruce pieces were cut and bent to route to the kit's rear muffler

    Wheels are from an old Radioshack Xmods wheel set, which look about 1/24th and resemble OZ BBS style wheels. Brakes are from an old AMT grey molded source of an unknown subject (Fast and Furious Monte Carlo?).

    Front tires are from a Revell Acura RSX, and the wider rears come from what could be an AMT Fast and Furious Veilside Toyota Supra.

    Interior paint is Rustoluem Advance Formula Flat Brown, and the frame is Rustoluem Universal Aluminum.

    Exterior paint is Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue over Rustoluem Silver, cleared with Pledge.

     

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    Ignore that the valve cover had lettering upside down. I thought they were installed correctly but the engine was faced a different way before it got panted. Oh well, should still run fine!

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  2. 21 hours ago, Vincent631 said:

    Very cool build, I like the straight pipes! Boost that six cylinder engine and then do a LS1 swap when it gets blown up.

    Thanks! Yeah, stuff that BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH with an LS when it blows LOL! Straight pipe exhaust is the stock piece from the BRE version.

  3. On 3/30/2020 at 6:47 AM, Phildaupho said:

    Very effective conversion, I believe the engines in the Series 1 were badged as Oldsmobiles. although technically the same as the Cadillac engines.

    The Northstar motor was initially developed by Oldsmobile but originated in the '92 Cadillacs. The 4.6 liter version was the most widely used version in all GM cars until 2011, but only the smaller 4.0 liter version (which was used in the 99-02 Olds Aurora and the Shelby Series 1) was the only one ever kitted. The Series one version of the motor is not only supercharged, but is also in a RWD configuration that required trimming of the trans+ molded drive line to replace it with the Fieros separate transmission. 

     

    21 hours ago, Vincent631 said:

    It came out to be a really good looking green, Pontiac! What scale is that? The trim must have taken time. Also, the wheel swap and V8 makes 80s Fiero a high performance little rocket! Maybe do the other one stock original.

    Vinny, it's this kit:

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    1/24th Scale, reissued in 1994 and 2004. Most parts went together well, but the rear bumper is a challenge since it has to go on after the chassis is in, otherwise it's near impossible to get the frame in with it on.

    Trim can be a nightmare if one were to use pens or brush. It was relatively easy to do using rounded toothpicks.

    Got two of these dirt cheap that time I was at Emerald City. The other one I'm keeping sealed but my dad build one of these box stock back in the day and still has it. Maybe i'll get of that one on here sometime.

  4. 2015 issue of Revell BRE Datsun 240z racer. On top of having some warped spots (that were partially fixed without breaking another hood or set of glass into two), most parts needed massaging, hollowing, and trimming to lay in place. Main offender was the dashboard being too tall and making the body look like a lift up funny car. That and the firewall needed to be trimmed to get the body to frame/interior fit in line. It's not perfect, but acceptable considering the warping didn't help a kinda messy 70s era Revell kit.

    Following modifications were made:

    Upgraded wheels/tires + brakes from an Aoshima lightsports series MX5 Miata. Wheels were painted Rustoluem Metallics Pure Gold

    Custom built twin turbo and FI system using Tamiya Toyota Supra 2Jz header

    Custom built intercooler

    Frame/interior paint is Rustoluem Universal Aluminum. Exterior is an unknown (can had no label) brand of Satan Black. I figured this color combo would replicate a stealth jet lightweight racer design.

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  5. Nice work! Monogram's Vette kits were fickle, especially with the hood and the glass fitments. How bad did the one piece glass affair and hood fit go once all the motor and radiators were in?

    Have one of these unstarted (that was checked and had parts de warped by me) in my stash, seeing yours makes me want to start it and hope things go for the best. I had attempted to build one of these about 12 years ago, but my kit was so warped and bent on top of the poor hood and glass fit, that it got scrapped and recycled for other projects.

  6. I applaud your take and ideas on improving this steaming hunk of garbage. Now I see 67 GTO becomes a totally different kit when you dump the janky frame, motor and interior and swap it out with anything else.

    Is that the AMT 67 Pro Street Chevelle frame you used? It looks different to the Revell 67, but then I remembered the AMT kit had inner fenders in the frame compared to the Revell with them in the engine compartment.

  7. I applaud you for even getting those nasty fitting noses to look proper! The underlying MPC kit is OK, but the custom front nose is one of the worst fitting things to crop up in any model build, second to the AMT 69 Daytona's nose and the AMT Lamborghini Diablo body to chassis fit. 

  8. Monogram kit with modifications as followed:

    4.0 supercharged Northstar motor from a failed scrap Revell Shelby Series 1

    Wheels & tires + steering wheel from scrap Shelby Series 1 build

    Resin racing seats

    Chrome exhaust tips from AMT 93 Camaro

    Interior paint is Krylon Shimmer Metallic Candy Pear, exterior is Tamiya TS-52 Candy Lime Green cleared with Pledge (aka Future, but goes under 900,000 different names nowadays)

    Here are le pics, and enjoy!

     

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  9. Normally i'm not in to these (and supposedly they're rare for being kinda curbsides), but a few years ago I saw the '97 HHO reissue and the 1980 Street Freak issues cheap as some shows and figured what the hey. White/Red/Blue is the 1997 issue of the Hurst Harry Olds (in the vintage Monogram boxart), Green one was the 1980 Street Freak reissue (which is really the same Hurst Harry Olds with new decals). Green 442 was finished weeks ago but was in progress on/off for about 4 years waiting for paint, which was applied on one of the worst and windiest thanksgivings ever that tossed the body around. Luckily, most of the severe chips were covered up with decals and all worked out. Mods (that were started in 2017) were some lowering, and has spares bins wheelie bars, different seats and steering wheel. Wheels and rear tires are from a parts Polar Lights Tom McEwen Barracuda Funny Car (that had an unusable short shotted body), while front tires are spare slicks from one of the Revell '57 Fords. Paint is Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green rattle can cleared with Pledge. Decals were unsurprisingly shot, so the spare bins came to the rescue with extra decals from other kits,

    White/Red/Blue 442 was started shortly after completion of the Green one. This one is almost OOB with the exception of Cragar mags and smaller drag slicks up front from the Revell '67 Charger (which caused the front to be unxepecently lowered, as the kits tires were the same size as the fronts and made the front too high). Paint is an experimental white/red/blue fade job consisting of Colorplace Gloss White, Fire, Red, and Dark Blue. Decals were heavily water damaged, so the spare bins came to the rescue yet again with leftover decals. Bon Appetite!

     

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  10. As I said earlier, good work so far and I wish you luck on an extremely fiddly mess that I had once tackled (last issued in a AMT/Johnny Lightning box sold at KB Toys) but couldn't overcome and still won't go near another with a 9000 ft pole today.

    As I mentioned at the mtg, if you want i'd try ether using an old rag w/ toothpaste or a TINY amount of paint thinner to thin out the drip and possibly respray depending on if it shows through or not, or strip it in purple power (which takes no time with Testors enamel sprays).

    I also wish you good luck with the Revell Ed Roth 57 Chevy you had recently purchased, especially with those treacherous doors. I once attempted a  70/80s issue Revell 57 Nomad long ago and that was such a horrid mess with severely warped parts and overall sloppy fit, that I ended up scrapping the remains and gutted out the engine and suspensions parts onto other projects.

  11. In between work and life, I haven't managed to get very much done within the past few years. One most recently finished in the midist of all is this Revell Monogram kit (which seems to be a re boxed Revell Germany offering going by the multi color piece and the 1992 Revell AG copyright). This one was purchased in a club mtg auction for a tenner sealed in September and looked like a nice kit with hardly any flash and the quad turbo V12 pulled me in! However, it has serious, and I MEAN serious warping issues and with the blu body parts being so brittle that any slight hard twist back into the right shape always cracked. This one required a lot of trimming of the chassis/interior parts in addition to careful bending and filling of warped body sections, which took about a month to do all that before it was ready for paint.

    Almost OOB build with the exception of swapping out the 1930's like multi-spokes for 5 spokes from a SVT Mustang Cobra.  I found the Bugatti blue a bit boring and dated, so on went Tamiya Clear Red over Rustoluem aluminum cleared with Pledge.

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    IDK if the motor is supposed to be off center if the 1:1 is like that, or could be due to atrocious warping or bad kit design.

  12. I know the one you're talking about as it's in the "Create FX" glitter line, which I avoid as some ppl who used it says it dries flat and textured and sanding won't cut it. 

    This is the one I used, purchased from Hobby Lobby

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    I'm aware that one has larger flakes and compared to the larger Rustoluem Color Shift cans I used to get at Lowes. I thought it was mislabeled as it looks like a metal flake British Racing Green, but then I found out that the colorshifting only shows up in certain points of light but is much harder to see than the Rustoluem version.

    Ether way, i'm stil happy with the color even if it's mostly dark met green (don't have many builds in that color). 

     

  13. Depends on how badly the clear pieces were "melted" together to the mounting joints. If they aren't too welded in and can somewhat move or bend around, i'd try the mineral spirits method as the Ziploc freezing bag trick sometimes works and sometimes doesn't (usually good for getting parts with weak joints and chromed pieces,  or if the builder used the blue non toxic stuff).

    Worst case scenario is that you'd have to get new glass, but the good news is that these kits are common and you could easily snag a started or incomplete kit  next to nothing for it.

     

  14. Revell kit mostly OOB, but had some simplified bits (which are actually carry overs from the snap-tite Shinoda Boss kit) swapped out with guts from the '99 Cobra. Front suspension was missing springs and shocks, so that and IRS came from the 99. However, while the interiors are the same sans small differences in door panels and seats, the SS's chassis had to be swapped with the Cobra's as the former had indents that were meant for the solid rear axle setup and wouldn't work with the IRS. My kit despite being sealed, had a horribly deformed (short shot?) steering wheel, so I found a replacement parts one from what appears to be a Monogram '70 Mustang Boss. 

    The one off 5.4 DOHC engine (just DOHC heads on a SOHC truck 2 valve motor, which is different than the 4.6) while somewhat simplified and based on the 5.0 in the Shinoda Boss, was used as is considering you won't see much of it with the supercharger and all. However, the '99 Cobra's exhaust had to have the tips trimmed so it would not interfere with the body-to-frame fit frame and also had the tranny cross-member at a different place and shape and wouldn't work with the 5.4. So out went that and in came the brace from the Super Stallion chassis that was cut and placed to aprox it's original location. 

    Paint is Testors Color Shift Emerald Turquoise cleared with Pledge. Color looks like a metal flake British Racing Green in the pics, though in certain lighting you can see somewhat of a shift to Blue.

     

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