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Kit Basher

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Posts posted by Kit Basher

  1. I agree with you. The Wimbledon White has more of an off white look to it to me. I would go with what looks right to you. Just out of curiosity,how does the model look placed on the real truck in the same light? That would be the determining factor for me.

    Strangely enough, the model still looks dark when held up against the 1:1 truck, even at the spot where I sprayed the Testors on the 1:1. :D

    I'm going to try painting a spoon with Duplicolor and putting the Testors over that, see if it makes a difference.

  2. Here's the interior. The bucket gets cut down pretty much the same as the cab. After I took this pic, I found I needed to cut even more. It should be cut all the way to the "pillar"(A.), and the little "shelf"(B.) is almost gone. I also raised the rear of the tunnel to clear the driveshaft by cutting on the red line and bending it up.

    Cutbucketcopy.jpg

    I had to add a piece of "floor pan" to make up for what I cut away on the frame(A.), carve out a space for the transfer case, and fill in the seat depressions on the drivers side(B.).

    interiorboxcopy.jpg

    The only bench seat was the back seat from the Bronco, and it was much too narrow. So I cut it in half, and cut the center section out of the F250 seat.

    f150066.jpg

    I cut the backrest off the center section of the F250 seat and replaced it with a piece of styrene. Glued the whole thing together. Not a perfect match for my vinyl bench seat, but it'll do.

    f150070.jpg

    Now to make it a manual trans. The gearshift from the Lindberg is perfect, the transfer case shifter, not even close.

    shifter.jpg

    The transfer case shifter is kinda notched into the tunnel, so I added a block to the bottom of the boot, and made a new lever. It will get a blob of epoxy to make a knob.

    Copyoff150040.jpg

    Shift levers in place, had to add a clutch pedal, manual transmission! Now I can cut the prndl off the steering column!

    CopyofCopyoff150035.jpg

    No power windows in a work truck! Sanded off the power controls and made some cranks.

    f150081.jpg

    Here is the finished interior. (Yes, there is a dot of blue paint in the middle of the steering wheel. :) )

    Copyoff150042.jpg

    f150082.jpg

    Sorry for the crappy pictures.

    Advice and comments always welcome.

    nuff for now, more later.

  3. I am about ready to paint a model of my 1:1 truck, like this:

    f150publish-1.jpg

    Testors Wimbeldon White is a perfect match. I sprayed some on the 1:1 and you can't tell it's there. Problem is, when I spray it on a model and bring it inside, it looks really dark and yellow/brown.

    I'm thinking of painting the model a whiter white, just to make it look better, even tho it's not technically the "right" color.

    What would you guys do?

  4. VWDave's method sounds good, but if you're gonna go there, why not real fiberglass? Check in the R/C section of your LHS, they should have 3/4 oz. fiberglass cloth, and various tapes. It's easy to use, cuts with scissors, and if you use 30 minute epoxy, you can lay in a bunch of layers before the glue dries. The strongest is to lay in progressively bigger pieces, so that it's thickest right over the joint, and feathers out to the largest area you can easily cover. You can do all sorts of cool stuff with fiberglass, and IMHO, it should be in every modelers tool box.

  5. My truck has a receiver hitch, so I made this. Square brass tube, square and sheet styrene, and a little piece of aluminum sheet.

    f150088.jpg

    f150089.jpg

    The tie rod on the F250 is bass ackwards! It's even backwards from the way it's shown in the instructions. It should bend up with the steering box connection away from the axle. By the time I got it bent the right way, it was just about to break, plus I didn't like the way it was just hanging there in the breeze, so I built a steering box.

    f150091copy.jpg

    Added back the floor pans I cut away with sheet and strip. Here is the finished frame.

    f150090.jpg

    And the finished frame with the receiver hitch and spare.

    f150102.jpg

    Advice and comments always welcome.

    nuff for now, more later.

  6. I'm a "returning" modeler: built a lot as a kid, then started up again after a 30 year hiatus. This is excellent advice. Seeing what the masters can do is totally amazing, but that doesn't mean it's easy. Learning the basics is the best first step, and I've spent a lot of time reading on this forum, to learn as much of that as I can. I've found it doesn't even matter what the subject is, if someone does good work and is willing to share how they did it, you can learn a lot. Reading is no substitute for practice, but it saves a lot of trial and error. I've also had to develop some skills that I lost or never had.

    A finished model, at whatever skill level, is something to be proud of, and can motivate you to do better. It seems like the folks here will help you do that, if you let them.

    I'm working on an ambitious (for me) build, and there have been several times where I've wanted to go one step further, but realized I just wasn't there. I think it's OK to stop at "the best I can do". Hopefully next time will be better.

    Sorry to ramble on, I, for one, welcome constructive criticism, and am glad you guys are willing to offer it. (But the "attaboys" are nice too! ;) )

  7. I'm a 50s-60s kid too. A few comments.

    The Mustang, and Challenger are throwbacks (or updates if you like) but nicely done IMO.

    I definitely like Harry's Camaro better than the real one.

    I like the new Charger a lot, and I also like the Magnum.

    I would buy a new Challenger if I had 50k I didn't need.

  8. or just use your regular wet /dry paper and use a spray adhesive on both surfaces..I use 3M super 77.

    sticks, rods rubber blocks......

    Yeah, I do that too, works great. If you want to be able to replace the paper on a stick, try craft spray adhesive. That will give a temporary bond. I also use carpet tape for the grits I don't have sticky back for. For body work, I put 120 on one side of a flat stick, and 220 on the other. Good for shaping and rough sanding.

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