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Kit Basher

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Posts posted by Kit Basher

  1. 8 hours ago, Rodent said:

    I bought some matte black Chartpak graphic art tape from Amazon in hope to find a better solution for the hood paint on the Revell 69 Boss 302 and 71 Boss 351. It looks nice, but I haven't tried it yet. It's available down to 1/64 inch.

    I have used the Chartpak tape and I like it. One warning, tho, it is not a perfectly consistent width, it varies a bit as you go thru the roll. You can usually get a piece long enough for what you are doing, but you have to pay attention. It might be a little thick too, but should work. I used it for the outlines on the wings of this B-52. This is the 1/32" width.

    DSCN1978.JPG

  2. 4 hours ago, Milo said:

    If you don’t clear after decals, how do you get them to gloss?

    Most of my models are more or less stock, and don't have decals. The exception is my most recent build, a race car with lots of decals, but I didn't want it to be glossy, so no clear. That's just me, you can do it however you want. You might want to do some research on this forum, tho. I have seen some posts where the clear killed the decals.

    • Like 1
  3. Try stirring the bottle paint. Testors paints can separate a lot, especially if they have been sitting awhile. The pigments in some are pretty heavy, and shaking doesn't do much. Stir until the blob of pigment on the end of the stir stick is gone, then stir some more. I've had good luck brush painting with Testors on bare plastic, one coat covers well, as long as the paint is well mixed.

    • Like 2
  4. 2 hours ago, bbowser said:

    Great paint and decal work!  I have this in the stash, anything to watch out for?

    Thanks, Bruce! Not really. It goes together really well. Obviously, the tricky part is the masking. It helps that Revell made a two part body. I masked the white stripe and the front air ducts, I didn't want to just depend on the decals. Then the decals cleaned up my masking. Give it a go, I really enjoyed it.

  5. Testors/ Heller Ferrari 512S. Still half finished in the box. A lot of the assemblies have no positive way of knowing if they are in the right place. So I had to do a lot of tweaking and adjusting. That may not be a problem for a better modeller than me, but the deal breaker was the back hatch. It doesn't even come close to fitting the rest of the body. I'm seriously considering removing the very nice Ferrari engine, gluing the hatch shut, and calling it a curbside.

    • Like 1
  6. Another source for vinyl similar to the Oracal is sign makers. They use a fairly heavy vinyl to cut out signs. Whatever is not part of the sign gets thrown away. Those scraps should be plenty big enough for your purpose. The adhesive should not be a problem, as this stuff is intended to last many years outside. I don't know how well paint would stick to it.

  7. 10 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Cheapest coffee maker I could find within a couple of miles, to replace my old, faithful friend of 25 years who went to the great Starbucks in the sky early this AM.

    image.jpeg.c8cbf49d52c043434907a2c814850ab9.jpeg The coffee maker is dead. Long live the coffee maker.

     

    I've had one of those for several years, and it's held up well so far. (Hope I don't jinx it!) It's relatively stupid, which I consider an advantage. I don't bother to tell it what time it is.

    • Haha 1
  8. The Revell 69 Boss 302 has the decals with a wide section (maybe 3/16"), then a space, then the pinstripe. Kinda hard to explain, if you take a close look at the photo, maybe you will see what I mean. The wider section covers the transition from body color to the black, so masking doesn't have to be so precise, and it is easier to get the decal straight (although I didn't!). If you are going to cut the decal, maybe you can do something similar. I used Testors square bottle Semi Gloss black, not a perfect match, but OK.

    OOPS! i just re-read the previous posts and see that this is what you're trying to avoid. DOH! Sorry.

    DSCN1884.JPG

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